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Old 02-04-2009, 03:18 PM   #61
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I'm embarrassed. I'll quit for now.

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Old 02-04-2009, 03:21 PM   #62
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oh no! keep going! a couple of those i certainly will use!
the nail head trick and shiny concrete are great tips!
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:24 PM   #63
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Ok, maybe one more. Never write on drywall with anything but a pencil. Not even a ballpoint pen. It is guaranteed that it will, sooner or later, bleed through the paint if you don't use a blocker like Kilz on it.
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:28 PM   #64
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i've sat and flattened whole boxes of finishing nails on a stone before a job, but i never thought to turn it around and tap it first...
those little heads will still crack hardwood when they go in.
good one.

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Old 02-04-2009, 03:28 PM   #65
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You know how your table saw tends to rust? Well most of this can be stopped by doing nothing more than keeping it covered with a big, fat terry cloth towel. Not a sheet... a TOWEL... and a good one.
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:31 PM   #66
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Quote:
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i've sat and flattened whole boxes of finishing nails on a stone before a job, but i never thought to turn it around and tap it first...
those little heads will still crack hardwood when they go in.
good one.

DM
Well, sometimes the wood may not be hard enough to get a good flattening on the nail head, so you may have to resort to the hardness of stone somewhere, but it is still good to give the wood a tap with the head.
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:32 PM   #67
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hmmm... i guess a tap with my nailset would accomplish the same thing, and be easier than holding onto a small nail.
the main thing is the hole, right?

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Old 02-04-2009, 03:33 PM   #68
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Quote:
That smashed fingernail can be saved. Just get the needle good and hot on the tip with the match and "spin" it into the darkest part of of the nail injury. Right on top, like a drill. Do it quick and there is almost no pain. You just penetrate the nail. And you will be rewarded with a very relieving tiny squirt of blood when you have gone far enough.
Okay, someone has to say it......OUCH! It sounds more painful than childbirth, but you're right, it would be better than losing a nail. Good tips!

I'm buying 10 steel thimbles to put in the finger tips of my work gloves so I never smash a fingernail again.
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:38 PM   #69
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Occasionally scrub off the nail driving surface of your hammer on a rough concrete block. Over time, it tends to get slick, and slips off the nail heads a lot easier. Roughening the head surface helps.
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:41 PM   #70
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Okay, someone has to say it......OUCH! It sounds more painful than childbirth, but you're right, it would be better than losing a nail. Good tips!

I'm buying 10 steel thimbles to put in the finger tips of my work gloves so I never smash a fingernail again.
I know this will send chills up and down your spine, but you don't really drill through the nail, you actually "melt" the nail. But done quick (preferably by someone else), you hardly feel much more than a little sting.
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:47 PM   #71
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When you grab a nail, and find it has the head on the wrong end, don't throw it away. Save all those nails, because they are for the other wall behind you.

Sorry............. Gettin' punchy with all this typing.
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Old 02-04-2009, 04:06 PM   #72
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Ever string a line between two nails? Kinda hard to get at least one of the knots undone when you're finished, eh?

Well, just be sure the nails are tilted away from each other a little bit... then you...

Flip a loop back over itself for the first nail... you do this all the time, and know how easy that one is to slip off. No problem.

But on the other nail at the other end, the end you're going to pull real tight, it can be a bear to get the string back off... especially if you really need to leave the nail in place.

Here's the trick:
Make a loop. (And here is the secret) Stick a finger in the loop and twist it 5 or 6 times, Slip the twisted loop over the nail.

With one hand, pull the main part of the string tight from the direction of the original (base) nail. And at the same time, pulling in the opposite direction on the loose end with the other hand, (toward the base nail) take up all the slack.

Now... jerk the hand you took up the slack with back past the nail, and pull it snug. See how all the twists bunch up against the nail, and hold this end of the string solid and tight?

When you want to retreive the string, simply pull the loose end of the twisted end sharply back toward the base nail direction, and Presto! The string loosens completely.

The other end? Well you have to take that off the way you always have. So I hope you made that one an easy knot to undo... if you don't just pull the nail and slide it off.
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Old 02-05-2009, 10:28 AM   #73
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Got a hole in your drywall that needs patching? Remember the unsightly “bump” you left last time you tried this? Well, here’s the way around that embarrassing hassle.

· Cut the hole out to a nice, clean square or rectangle.
· Screw in a couple of pieces of “backer” wood across the inside of the hole. (1 x 3 works nicely) You just make them about 4” longer than the hole edges, and screw through the drywall to hold them against the inside of the hole. This is what you will screw your patch to. Sink the screws in a little deeper than you normally do for regular drywall faces. And screw within an inch to an inch and a half of the edge of the hole... no farther out.
· Cut a square or rectangle piece of drywall 2” bigger (in both directions) than the hole.
· Lay the piece face down on a square edged working surface.
· Scribe a cut all around the edges, 2-1/8” (heavy) in from the outside. These cuts will each go all the way to the ends of the piece.
· Now slide the piece over, past the edge of the work surface so one of the cuts is right over the edge.
· Bump the overhang with your hand till it breaks.
· Let the broken piece hang over the edge, and starting at one top corner, peel the rock off the face paper... leaving the face paper intact.
· Rotate the direction of the piece, and do this same “peeling” technique to the three remaining edges.
· Now “dry fit” the patch in the hole and carefully cut the face paper of the wall around the perimeter of the full patch. This means your scribed cut will be 2” bigger than the hole.
· Take the patch back out, and peel that 2” strip of face paper off the wall, all the way around the hole. (You may have to use the point of your utility knife a little here.)
· Mix some mud a little wetter than usual, and generously cover all the exposed rock around the hole.
· Put the patch back in the hole, and hold it in place with a couple of screws.
· With a wet sponge, slightly moisten the loose paper edges of the patch... just slightly, you don’t want it soppy.
· Now, wipe the paper edges of the patch with a small, wet D/W knife, just like you would real drywall tape, squeezing out all the excess mud from the edges.
· Fill the screw holes......... and you’re done with the bed coat. The rest of your finishing comes a little later just like normal drywall work.

What you will find with this technique is that there will be no problems trying to hide the normally taped edges of the patch. The paper edges of the patch imbed into the space where you removed that 2” ring around the hole, leaving a completely flush surface.

FREE "EXTRA" HINT:
You can get a little neater job if you clip off about a half inch, diagonally, from the four corners of the patch paper face before you do your wall scribing. That way, you do not have to contend with any pointy corners that seem to sometimes like to curl up.
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Old 02-05-2009, 10:47 AM   #74
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Too ham-fisted to strip the ends off small wires without cutting some of the strands?

Simply hit the end of the wire, where you want it to separate, with the flame of a match. While the insulation is still hot, grab it with a pair of gloves, and just slide it right off.
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Old 02-05-2009, 11:10 AM   #75
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ooh... good one. and much better elaboration on my way too short drywall fix. lol
keep it up!

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