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-   -   Dimensions of Pressure Treated lumber (http://www.diychatroom.com/f2/dimensions-pressure-treated-lumber-184579/)

jammy54 07-31-2013 07:20 PM

Dimensions of Pressure Treated lumber
 
I am repairing a rotted out front doorstep, threshold, floor inside front door. Damage was caused by water seeping in and dry rot. Have all the bad wood cut out and am getting ready to sister some of the 2 x 10 joists and replace a section of the rim joist under the threshold which was completely rotted out.

I'm using PT lumber that I purchased at a big box store (I know, I know) and it is still very moist and therefore swollen. The 2x10 measures 9-1/2". The existing joists have dried to almost 9-1/8".

So what should I do?

a) Use the oversized lumber and have a (hopefully temporary) crown in the floor where the sisters go in? [P.S. I can wait until next year to finish the floor.]

b) Rip the pieces to 9-1/8. But then there will be extra shrinkage later ...

c) Go but some non-PT 2x10s. (Please don't say so :( .)

Need your input!!

Thanks.

firehawkmph 07-31-2013 08:01 PM

Jammy,
sounds like you're damned if you do and damned if you don't. If you don't have a real lumberyard nearby that could get you some treated wood that's not soaking wet, then what about using yellow pine for the joists, or doug fir if you can get it. (real lumberyard item). For the floor joists, I wouldn't worry about using treated lumber. If you fix the leak, they shouldn't get wet. Same even for the section of rim joist. If you're really worried, prime and paint all edges and install it. Make sure everything is properly caulked and sealed and it will probably last another 100 years. You could also use some of that 'protect-o-wrap' to help seal up the edges. HD has it by the insulation aisle along with the great foam.
Mike Hawkins:)

Davejss 07-31-2013 08:01 PM

Rip down your new stock to match the existing lumber. Or sort through the stuff at the lumber yard. You're bound to find a at 9-1/8".

jammy54 07-31-2013 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davejss (Post 1223549)
Rip down your new stock to match the existing lumber. Or sort through the stuff at the lumber yard. You're bound to find a at 9-1/8".

Thanks, Davejss. That was my preference. And later, in about 5 years, if I see that there is a noticeable gap, I guess I can shim the subfloor at any high spots?

joecaption 08-01-2013 05:32 AM

Got a picture of what your trying to do?
The reason I ask is #1 Got to figure out why it rotted out in the first place so it does not happen again.
Most common reasons are door opening was installed to close to a stoop, deck, steps ECT.
Door was not flashed at the bottom of the rough framing.
Wall was not water proofed before siding went on.
Ledger for deck was installed tight to the wall and no flashing.

jammy54 08-01-2013 01:21 PM

Hi joecaption:

Yes, I have lots of pictures.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3f13t4s63gkexst/vPBaj5SMf2

We just bought this house, so I don't know the history or the root cause. But I suspect it was caused by an ice dam and water getting in behind it. The house was owned by an older couple. Man passed away in 2009 and lady passed away earlier this year. There are two front doors to the house and I suspect that caregivers were using the other one which is under a porch. This one has no protection above. There was a huge snowstorm 2-3 years ago with 3' drifts and they must not have shoveled this door. Anyway, hat’s my theory.

When I first got here, the threshold was rotted out and the floor was bouncy about 2' back from the door. After I tore everything out, there was flashing (aluminum) but it was most corroded under the threshold. There were some good parts on the edges of the sheathing.

I don't think the problem was waterproofing the wall. I see good tar paper and Tyvek, both in good shape when I go beyond doorway. Siding (cedar planking) is in excellent condition.

There is a good gap between sheathing and stoop (brick/mortar.) [In fact, I have some questions about how to finish this when I apply the wrap which I will ask later.] Flashing extended below foundation between stoop and door sill plate and rim joist, but top of flashing had corroded, so I could not see how well it was wrapped around the flooring and door opening.

Let me know what you think. Thanks!


https://www.dropbox.com/s/9hj59debc42vl62/IMG_0739.JPG


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