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Old 04-25-2013, 08:13 AM   #31
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Hey John,
Looks like that door landing is sloping towards the garage. All your surface water is running down the wall/door & site slope directly to the edge of your garage. I would suggest the following:
1. Build a concrete landing infront of the garage door. Make it 1" below the garage height, 3"-6" wider than the door in each diretion and project it 3' out. Form the landing to slope away from the door.
2. Pour solid the hollow cells in the blocks under the door.
3. Install an exterior threshold over the blocks.
4. If it's in your budget, replace the door and jamb to a pre-hung exterior door system. If not, sand, caulk, and seal all openings and cracks in the existing door. Then, install a door shoe on it.
Hope this helps.


Originally Posted by johnsorious View Post
Attached are two photos of the service. Would I need the local utility to cut the power to my house to safely install new vinyl siding?

Also attached is a picture of the back door of the garage. Is it supposed to look like that with cinder blocks? This house was made in 1960 and wasn't sure if that is part of the foundation and supposed to be exposed like that.


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Old 04-25-2013, 08:20 AM   #32
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Figure put what you need for material, shingles, siding, felt, ice and water, drip edge, tyvek, ridge cap, hip and ridge,

Get the whole list together and go to suppliers and ask for a bid from them.

Also ask if they have a boom truck. For the shingles
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:39 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by johnsorious View Post
Is it hard for a beginner diy'er to replace the roof on a one story house? How about replacing the wood siding with vinyl? I used to do electrical back in high school (5 years ago). The house I'm looking at would need those replaced and was wondering if the average person could do it correctly.

Is their any good guides that show you how to do either of them? I can't find any good ones on google.

Roofing is not hard, it IS hard work, hot, dirty.
I replaced the roof on my 1,000 sq ft house with 2 valleys over 2 summers, and wound up having to do the work in JULY when of course it's about 600 degrees in the shade with 300% humidity, but I got it done.

I had to tear off 3 layers of old asphalt 3 tab, plus a layer of asphalt lock shingles and cedar shakes under that!
I sheeted the deck with CDX plywood screwed down.

What I did is because I wanted to have a better roof than average, I used the rubberized Tamko moisture guard over the entire deck instead of JUST the eaves. I also cut a continuous ridge vent as there was none.
My mistake was buying Certainteed 3 tab shingles, I bought the 35 year shingles.
I did the valleys with sheet aluminum, not that paper thin krap you get on a roll at Menards, I went to an online metal supplier and bought sheet aluminum about 24" wide and maybe 5' long. I forget the gauge but it was around 18 or 20 gauge- much thicker than the 24-28 gauge sheet metal you find around.
That when overlapped was my valley.

Within 8 years the Certainteed shingles began coming apart and I learned of a class-action lawsuit. Long story short, I wound up getting a $1,200 check from Certainteed.
The above picture is from 2006, the roof was put in 2002-2003, this front part was put in 2003

This is what it looked like last summer and it was already showing signs of coming apart the summer before, the granules were just flaking off and the tabs curling up. I have a power attic vent, eave vents 2 gable vents and the ridge vent, the attic is well ventilated which is one reason Certainteed wound up paying my full claim- they couldn't claim the attic was unvented and too hot as being the cause and deny the claim:

My advice is choose your roofing materials carefully, the 35 year warranted shingles LOOK like they are 35 years old! and yeah, I basically got a refund equal to about 120% of what the shingles cost me, but dammit all I did the roof the way I did it and it was blood sweat and tears over two HOT Julys so I wouldn't have to mess with it again, now after just 10 years I have to replace the whole thing all over again.
Don't buy organic shingles, I wouldn't even trust the fiberglass shingles, a 35 year warrantee is worthless when the product is defective, and if it is defective all you get is the purchase price back, your other expenses, labor etc are lost.

I am going to the aluminum lock shingles and bought one square to examine:

It's $235 a square, about twice what the 3 tab asphalt runs, you might look into this, or something else, but if you plan to stay in the house long term get something good, if you plan to sell in 5 years I guess it doesn't matter what you put up.
You'll need drip edges, flashing...
Videos on youtube are nice, but you might find a book easier to refer to, videos for something like this are either snail paced and only cover a small part of it, or race thru, check out some "how to" roofing books, and they will give you plenty of good photos, examples, materials lists, tips, what NOT to do etc., I believe you will be happier with a book and find it an invaluable reference you can carry outside where you work and refer to it.


Last edited by RWolff; 04-26-2013 at 06:45 PM.
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