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Viking2008 07-08-2008 10:08 AM

Deck Confusion
I would appreciate some advice on my deck. I had my deck redone with "one time" stain last fall. The company sanded and power washed the deck then applied the material. We had a rainfall 4 or 5 hours after it went on. It looked decent (color and coverage) before winter came. The major downside was that the knots in the wood were lighter than the planks and that the powerwash roughed up the wood so that after the stain went on there were still fuzzy areas. This spring the deck color has faded some and the fuzzy areas are still there.

I had the deck company come by last fall and this month and they said the following:

  • In general that the product looked good
  • that the fuzzy areas were a minor flaw resulting from insufficient sanding and that they would weather off.
  • The knots will not accept stain as readily as the planks
I don't know much about deck treatment. Am I being handed a line by the company or does this seem like decent info. Hoping more seasoned deck hands could give me some insight.

Termite 07-08-2008 03:14 PM

Knots are pretty stain-resistant. I'd buy that part.

As for the fuzz, that's a copout. The fuzz is from the power washing, and insufficient sanding to remove the raised grain. They should take care of that.

As for "one time" or "lifetime" deck staining and sealing, I think it is a load of hogwash. I've seen a lot of people advertise it but have yet to see an application hold up much better than conventional DIY stain/sealer.

Cajun1 07-08-2008 04:57 PM


Originally Posted by Viking2008 (Post 137086)
. Am I being handed a line by the company or does this seem like decent info.

Yep! He is however, right about the knots.

bigchaz 07-10-2008 02:54 PM

Your main problem was buying the snake oil "one time" deck stain. Fuzzies are from the use of too much pressure on the wood when cleaning

Renovator,LLC 07-10-2008 03:41 PM

Knots will not absorb stain as readily as the rest of the deck.
When I am restaining a deck, I'll powerwash it (being careful not to damage the wood), let it dry completely, then power sand the entire horizontal surface using either a floor drum sander, or a random orbital sander to remove as much as the old finish as possible, and prep the surface for accepting the new finish.
Because of the labor involved, and the chance of finish failing (PT decks with their multitude of cracks are prone to failure) I rarely do this anymore. I recently turned down refinishing a 1500sf deck because the reality was, it needed to be replaced, and callbacks were a certainty.

If the deck co is reasonable, they MIGHT come out and sand and top the deck off with another coat.
If not, what-you-see-is-what-you-get.

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