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Old 06-11-2008, 06:23 AM   #16
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Deck Building Project Pictures (and Some Questions)


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Originally Posted by Ler0y Jenkins View Post
Do you mean remove some dirt around the window and make sure the ground is properly graded before installing the decking boards??

Yes. That's exactly what I mean. An "ounce of prevention" sort of thing.

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Old 06-11-2008, 07:10 AM   #17
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Yes. That's exactly what I mean. An "ounce of prevention" sort of thing.
Good point. I'll rake it out and make sure the grading is good before adding the joists. Thanks for the input.
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Old 06-16-2008, 08:10 AM   #18
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Deck Building Project Pictures (and Some Questions)


Another question:

Do I need to attach the decking to every single joist? The reason I ask is because I have 25 joists (3 of which are double joists for the seams) including the outside joists. If I use two screws per joist, every row of decking boards will have over 50 screws. If my deck is 12' deep and the decking boards are 6" wide, I will need approximately 24 rows of decking boards. That's 1,200 screws. Can I skip joists?? Maybe do every other joist??

Also, I bought a 25 lb bucket of stainless steel 2 1/2" decking screws. Does anyone know approximately how many screws come in a 25 lb bucket??
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Old 06-16-2008, 08:46 AM   #19
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Deck Building Project Pictures (and Some Questions)


Common practice is to screw every piece of decking to every joist. That's the way you should do it. That being said, I don't think anyone will notice if you skip every other joist.

I say that tongue-in-cheek. If your decking is pressure treated...Which I'm thinking it is...You need to screw it down to every joist. Pressure treated material looks really nice for a few weeks, and then the sun hits it and it starts to dry out and go crazy. It will move or cup on you anywhere you give it an opportunity.

You certainly don't need to be using stainless steel screws with pressure treated material. There are cheaper options that will perform in treated material.

Not sure about the screw count per pound.
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Old 06-16-2008, 09:11 AM   #20
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Deck Building Project Pictures (and Some Questions)


You should not have to screw your decking into both of the doubles or all of the triples as long as these joists are properly tied together. After reading your posts, they are more than likely over secured.
As a point of interest, I will use stainless fasteners in 99% of my exterior construction. For pressure treated you should use either NoCoRode, double dipped galvanized or stainless.
Not affiliated, but the best price I've seen is at McFeely's online.

Great looking deck, pictures and very thorough posts.
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Old 06-16-2008, 09:43 AM   #21
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Sorry guys, to clear up the confusion, the undercarriage is all pressure treated but the decking is 5/4" cedar. I priced some screws that were not stainless but coated to work with "light-colored woods" and they were more than the stainless. Is there a cheaper alternative than stainless for cedar? I paid about $89.00 for a 25 lb bucket of stainless. Thanks.
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Old 06-16-2008, 10:31 AM   #22
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Cedar is very high in tannic acid which provides its decay resistance. This acid will react with most fasteners and cause the cedar to bleed around the fasteners. Use 304, 305 stainless. If in a seaside environment use 316. Have you though about a hidden fastener system? I used one by TBY and do not recommend.
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Old 06-16-2008, 10:57 AM   #23
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Cedar is very high in tannic acid which provides its decay resistance. This acid will react with most fasteners and cause the cedar to bleed around the fasteners. Use 304, 305 stainless. If in a seaside environment use 316. Have you though about a hidden fastener system? I used one by TBY and do not recommend.
Thanks for the input. I didn't think to check what grade the stainless steel screws were; I'll check when I get home.

I haven't considered using a hidden fastener system. Do you know of one that you would recommend?
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Old 06-16-2008, 11:39 AM   #24
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I just read you're using 5/4" decking. Are your joists 16" O.C.? I really have not done much research on hidden fasteners, I thought I did enough and cannot recommend a brand.
All I can tell you is that they are more expensive than conventional fasteners. Google is your friend and I'd do a quick cost analysis to see if they will fit within your budget. I have seen a few threads in the contractor forum on them.
As a side note, before you go too much further, consider placing a barrier, landscape fabric covered with stones, or similar to help prevent vegetation growth under your new deck. It will be much easier now, even with a limited access that doing this from entirely underneath later.
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Old 06-17-2008, 09:57 AM   #25
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This weekend I was able to get a lot accomplished and the deck is finally starting to take shape. I'll post pictures of the progress and a brief description of the work:

I needed a 6x6 to accommodate a 45 degree beam intersection under the area where the steps will go. I looked for brackets that would accomplish this but was unable to find ones that would work. As a result, I decided to simply notch out the top of a 6x6 that would be situated at 22.5 degrees relative to each beam.

I started out trying to use every power tool I own to make the cuts. I think a band-saw would have been best but mine was not big enough to accommodate a 6x6. I ended up using a simple hammer and a chisel and the whole thing only took about 45 minutes. Here are some pictures:
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Old 06-17-2008, 09:58 AM   #26
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The next step was to finish the outside beam and attach the outside joists. Here are some pictures:
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Old 06-17-2008, 10:04 AM   #27
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Deck Building Project Pictures (and Some Questions)


Next, it was just a matter of installing the joists. I had previously attached the joist-hangers to the ledger board and someone pointed out that that might pose an issue if the boards are different heights. Luckily, everything was fine. I had to run one board through the table saw to knock about 1/8" off of it, but all the others fit without a problem.

Also, I posted previously about the inner beam being a bit higher than necessary in a couple of parts. I contemplated sanding the beam with a belt-sander but, once again, found that a hammer and chisel was the way to go. Basically, I just put each joist in the hanger. If it fit in the hanger and touched both beams I left it alone. If it didn't make contact with either the inside or outside beam, I took a pencil and drew a line on the bottom of the joist where it intersected the high beam and then used the chisel to knock between 1/16" and 1/8" off the bottom.

In the end, this was quicker than a belt sander and probably better since I didn't have to worry about removing any of the pressure treatment. Here are some pics:
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Last edited by Ler0y Jenkins; 06-17-2008 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 06-17-2008, 10:08 AM   #28
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Deck Building Project Pictures (and Some Questions)


Next, I measured 12' out and marked a chalk-line across the front of the joists and trimmed the ones that needed to be trimmed. Then I measured 14' for the 14' section, snapped a chalk-line, and trimmed those joists. After that I made a 45 degree angle where the steps will go and trimmed those joists. Here are some pictures:
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Last edited by Ler0y Jenkins; 06-17-2008 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 06-17-2008, 10:11 AM   #29
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Deck Building Project Pictures (and Some Questions)


Finally, I began attaching the header joist temporarily with drywall screws so I can figure out what needs to be cut and where. I ran out of wood so I had to stop there. Here are some pictures:
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Deck Building Project Pictures (and Some Questions)-p6150254.jpg  
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Old 06-17-2008, 10:15 AM   #30
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Here are some pictures from on top of the deck. I also put the temporary staircase that I made on the left side, near the sliding glass door. I laid some 5/4 cedar planks down temporarily so we can walk from the house to the back yard (yea!!! I feel like I almost have a deck now ).

Even the dog likes it.
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