I posted a few questions at the below link about 2 weeks ago.
http://www.diychatroom.com/f2/how-repair-crumbling-cement-mortar-67723/
I have now done my best to pull out all of the bricks that had come loose (there were quite a few more than I thought) and found some bricks that closely (but not exactly) matched the old bricks. I also purchased a diamond saw blade that was on clearance to cut out some of the old concrete. I originally thought that the concrete was only about 1 1/2 inches thick because of the condition under it but it turns out what I thought was sand was pulverized concrete and morter. Once I started cutting back all of the damaged concrete I found that the concrete is actually about 4 inches thick. Now I need some advice.
I was thinking that I would mortar the new bricks in place and put the concrete cap back on. Then pour fresh concrete into the gap between the concrete cap and the old concrete that I trimmed back. I think this should insure that there is no gap between the cap and the concrete for water to get into. Any advice or thoughts on this would be appreciated.
The other question is this: Should I drill into the old concrete and cement in some pieces of rebar to tie the old and new concrete together or is that just overkill. The person at ACE hardware showed me some kind of adhesive that you brush onto the old concrete that is supposed to adhere the new concrete to the old. What is the preferred method for making sure that the new concrete doesn't just pull away from the old next winter?
The picture below show what I am dealing with.
This picture shows what I am dealing with after removing all of the loose and crumbling concrete.
This is a close up of the chiseled away concrete. What is left there seems to be pretty solid. It wasn't breaking up without a lot of effort.
I used the diamond blade to cut this section of concrete back because the railing was making it impossible to swing a hammer and chisel. The concrete is actually thicker than just the smooth cut section. That was as deep as the blade would go so I cut out what I could. Under the smooth cut it feels like more concrete. The chisel was having a heck of a time breaking anything up down there.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2698/4506108667_84d308bee0.jpg
This is the same section as above but from further away. You can see it was a fairly long strip that I had to cut out to get all of the damaged concrete.
This is the stuff that the guy at the brickyard suggested for the bricks.
This is the concrete that I picked up from Lowes. I would be very appreciative if anyone has any better suggestions for this.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4506747260_cb7653ff0c.jpg
http://www.diychatroom.com/f2/how-repair-crumbling-cement-mortar-67723/
I have now done my best to pull out all of the bricks that had come loose (there were quite a few more than I thought) and found some bricks that closely (but not exactly) matched the old bricks. I also purchased a diamond saw blade that was on clearance to cut out some of the old concrete. I originally thought that the concrete was only about 1 1/2 inches thick because of the condition under it but it turns out what I thought was sand was pulverized concrete and morter. Once I started cutting back all of the damaged concrete I found that the concrete is actually about 4 inches thick. Now I need some advice.
I was thinking that I would mortar the new bricks in place and put the concrete cap back on. Then pour fresh concrete into the gap between the concrete cap and the old concrete that I trimmed back. I think this should insure that there is no gap between the cap and the concrete for water to get into. Any advice or thoughts on this would be appreciated.
The other question is this: Should I drill into the old concrete and cement in some pieces of rebar to tie the old and new concrete together or is that just overkill. The person at ACE hardware showed me some kind of adhesive that you brush onto the old concrete that is supposed to adhere the new concrete to the old. What is the preferred method for making sure that the new concrete doesn't just pull away from the old next winter?
The picture below show what I am dealing with.
This picture shows what I am dealing with after removing all of the loose and crumbling concrete.
This is a close up of the chiseled away concrete. What is left there seems to be pretty solid. It wasn't breaking up without a lot of effort.
I used the diamond blade to cut this section of concrete back because the railing was making it impossible to swing a hammer and chisel. The concrete is actually thicker than just the smooth cut section. That was as deep as the blade would go so I cut out what I could. Under the smooth cut it feels like more concrete. The chisel was having a heck of a time breaking anything up down there.
This is the same section as above but from further away. You can see it was a fairly long strip that I had to cut out to get all of the damaged concrete.
This is the stuff that the guy at the brickyard suggested for the bricks.
This is the concrete that I picked up from Lowes. I would be very appreciative if anyone has any better suggestions for this.