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Old 04-28-2012, 06:06 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by firehawkmph View Post
Time for a new one Hammer. Liftmaster makes the craftsmen openers. They cheapen them up for Sears to be able to sell them at the price points that they do. Get a liftmaster this time. Ideally see if you can get one from a local garage door wholesaler. The steel rails are one piece. Better openers than what they make for the big box stores. I hang a lot of their Elite series, 3/4hp belt drives. Very quiet and smooth running.
Mike Hawkins
Funny because a buddy told me almost the identical quote as your 3rd sentence. He also recommended the Liftmaster.

I called United Door about the Liftmaster 3280
http://www.liftmaster.com/lmcv2/page...px?modelId=405

After calling United...I took the logic board off the unit and noticed one of the pins attached to a relay has a bad solder joint. Gonna get this soldered back and see if that was the problem. Even if it is I might replace the unit with the Liftmaster
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Old 04-28-2012, 08:45 PM   #17
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If it works again Hammer, go ahead and use it till it really breaks, then replace it. Might as well get your money's worth out of it. The last one I do what yours is doing had a bad starting capacitor.
The 3280 is a good opener. You would be very happy with that one. Just make sure and check your basic door operation as Joe C mentioned. You should be able to raise or lower it with one hand if everything is working properly.
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:51 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by firehawkmph View Post
If it works again Hammer, go ahead and use it till it really breaks, then replace it. Might as well get your money's worth out of it. The last one I do what yours is doing had a bad starting capacitor.
The 3280 is a good opener. You would be very happy with that one. Just make sure and check your basic door operation as Joe C mentioned. You should be able to raise or lower it with one hand if everything is working properly.
Mike Hawkins
I checked the capacitor and it is still good. I can open the door with one hand.

What I might do is get the Liftmaster for the double door and if this solder fix works on the "crapsman", put it on the single door. Quick question...the 1/2 HP Crapsman will be OK for a single door?
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Old 04-29-2012, 12:49 PM   #19
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If you do get a new opener...go for the 3800 (I think that is the right #). It is a jackshaft drive....which means it connects to the torsion shaft of your door....mounts on the wall next to the door....gets rid of the rails and ugly support straps the traditional opener uses.

I keep hoping my screwdrive opener would die so I could justify the 3800.
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:03 PM   #20
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If you do get a new opener...go for the 3800 (I think that is the right #). It is a jackshaft drive....which means it connects to the torsion shaft of your door....mounts on the wall next to the door....gets rid of the rails and ugly support straps the traditional opener uses.
I think the 3800 needs a solid torsion bar??

Anyway I reinstalled the logic board and the opener works. I guess that little bit of play on that solder joint was the problem.
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:13 PM   #21
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Gents,
the 3800 does not need a solid torsion bar. But they are really meant for instances where a normal operator won't work. They basically just turn the shaft. A normal operator physically pulls or pushes the door. I wouldn' recommend a 3800 for an install where a normal operator will do the job. If you use it on a door that is horizontal when in the up position, and everything isn't setup correctly, the shaft may turn and just unwind the cables on the drums while the door stays in the up position. Then you have a mess. The other factor is they cost me almost twice as much as a traditional operator. I have one on one of my doors that has a high lift track the follows just underneath a cathedral ceiling. In this case, a normal operator won't work. The 3800 works fine for this as the door always has weight on it in the up position. Here's a pic. It's hard to see, but it's the little black box to the left or the door.
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:27 PM   #22
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Thanks for that info firehawk on the 3800.
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:26 AM   #23
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Thank you for the Great Info on this problem


You did a great job documenting all of this information. Thank you. Mine did the exact same thing, except after unplugging all night, mine still does not work.
I'm hoping to find a replacement to make an easy replacement. Use same rail and all..hopefully. It worked for 10yrs so why not.
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Old 07-14-2012, 01:42 PM   #24
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You did a great job documenting all of this information. Thank you. Mine did the exact same thing, except after unplugging all night, mine still does not work.
Are you able to take a look at the logic board and see if one of the solder joints of the relay in post #16 is loose?
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Old 07-14-2012, 02:09 PM   #25
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I have a chamberlain 1/3 HP Garage door opening motor. It has started making a clicking noise while closing. It starts closing and gets stuck. It opens fine. The learning button LED lights are also flickering when it gets stuck?

What is the issue? Any insight helps. Is this normal wear and tear?

Thanks
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Old 10-14-2012, 11:01 AM   #26
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I know this is an old thread. Put had ame exact problem. My first gut was the clicking sound was some sort of relay too. i will have to pull the logic board and check it out.

Does any one now where to get the trouble codes for the led patterns, (or lights fashing pattern)?

Hammerlanne you are awsome, such detail and great trouble shooting logic. I could see from the pic of the logic board it looked like the solder breach was a little burned up in that area. I wonder if it isn't a failing capacitor or resister causing the burn in the first place.

Again this was awsome trouble shooting and pics. I browse a lot of sites, and find that after reviwing a few you tend to notice the really good ones and ones that are just farting in the wind. This was a really good one.
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Old 07-30-2016, 05:57 PM   #27
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Re: Craftsman Garage Door Opener Motor Not Working, Clicking Sound


Quote:
Originally Posted by hammerlane View Post
After calling United...I took the logic board off the unit and noticed one of the pins attached to a relay has a bad solder joint. Gonna get this soldered back and see if that was the problem. Even if it is I might replace the unit with the Liftmaster
I had checked sensors, wiring, capacitors, etc. when I came across your post. I thought there was no way it would be the same solder joint failure but with no better ideas I took out the board and sure enough it looked EXACTLY like your picture. Under the microscope there was a complete thin break in the solder all the way around the terminal. I dabbed on some flux and reflowed the joint adding a bit of fresh solder. It works fine now. Maybe under certain useage scenarios that pin overheats and melts the solder? The day mine quit working there were kids visiting the house and they had opened the door when I wasn't with them. I wonder if they were repeatedly hitting the button? Or maybe it was just a fluke.

The other time I had this symptom was a couple of years ago. That time, the rubber motor mounts had rotted allowing the motor to spin in its mount which pulled a wire off a spade connector. I tried putting it back and it would work a few times and then spin loose again. The relay would just click when the button was pressed. I contacted Chamberlain and they sent me new rubber mounts for free and that solved the problem. When it acted up this time I assumed it was the same thing but when it wasn't, I eventually got here and found the solder joint problem.

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Old 08-01-2016, 05:57 AM   #28
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Re: Craftsman Garage Door Opener Motor Not Working, Clicking Sound


Brings back memories. Cant believe that was 4 years ago. Glad it still helped someone

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