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Old 02-22-2008, 05:32 AM   #16
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Codes.. and the enigma!


I have not been able to get a hold of him, the inspector wont make an appointment and will not call me back.

My main concern is two things, do I need to treat the foundation walls with some kind of waterproofing agent? And if the walls are set in an inch from the foundation do I just leave the inch free and clear? Who here things attaching wood directly to the concrete walls is a good idea?

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Old 02-22-2008, 05:59 AM   #17
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Who here things attaching wood directly to the concrete walls is a good idea?
NOBODY DOES
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Old 02-22-2008, 06:06 AM   #18
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NOBODY DOES

Thats what I figured, so do you all just put the normal fireblocks in the stud walls and leave the little gap between the wall / foundation alone?
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Old 02-22-2008, 06:16 AM   #19
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Thats what I figured, so do you all just put the normal fireblocks in the stud walls and leave the little gap between the wall / foundation alone?
6 Mil plastic from the top of the foundation wall down to the floor and let it come across the floor past the plane of the wall. Then frame your walls USING 2x4's and hold them off the wall a few inches so that you can plumb the walls.

Ramset the sole plate to the floor, nail your top plate to the floor joists above, you may have to shim, or install blocking if your joists run parallel to the wall.
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Old 02-22-2008, 06:34 AM   #20
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My main concern is two things, do I need to treat the foundation walls with some kind of waterproofing agent?
How old is your home? If it is a newer home built in the past 30 years or so, then it should already be waterproofed on the exterior side of the wall (Applied black asphalt/tar treatment). Adding anything on the interior side accomplishes nothing but wasting money and your time.

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And if the walls are set in an inch from the foundation do I just leave the inch free and clear?
Yes.

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Who here things attaching wood directly to the concrete walls is a good idea?
I would not advise it. Attach to the concrete floor pad. If possible, leave 2" gap for air circulation between the new framed wall and the foundation frost walls.
Be sureto use Pressure Treated floor plates and treated nails when you secure the plates to the floor. If using a powder actuated fastener (like a Hilti/Ramset/Other)-These nails would be "gray-colored" and not "brights". When attaching your studs into the bottom plate, try and use a treated (coated/galv/exterior grade) nail or screw, because of the copper in the PT.

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...so do you all just put the normal fireblocks in the stud walls and leave the little gap between the wall / foundation alone?
There should be no need to install fireblocking in the new stud walls, themselves. The areas of fireblocking would be overhead, in the upper joist bay areas along the tops of your frost walls.

Every building inspecter is different in regards to what they will tell you they want to see. A simple solution to this, if unclear, is to do all your framing. Then, schedule your framing inspection. When the inspector comes out, if he/she doesn't like what they see, they will simplyl tell you what you need to do. Then he/she will ask you to re-schedule a time to come back and re-inspect. When they do, if you are allset, they will sign-off the OK, then you can go on to your insulation work. That's it, no fine, no tongue lashing, no punishment, no big deal = You're a DIYer.

Side Point: I don't know if you are aware of this, but, your electrical and any plumbing must be installed in your new framing work, & inspected and signed off, before you call for a framing inspection.

Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 02-22-2008 at 06:48 AM.
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Old 02-22-2008, 06:35 AM   #21
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6 Mil plastic from the top of the foundation wall down to the floor and let it come across the floor past the plane of the wall. Then frame your walls USING 2x4's and hold them off the wall a few inches so that you can plumb the walls.

Ramset the sole plate to the floor, nail your top plate to the floor joists above, you may have to shim, or install blocking if your joists run parallel to the wall.

So your saying attach plastic to the sill and let it hang loose all the way down the wall and tuck it under the bottom studs? Whats your take on the others saying that the plastic vapor barrier should only face the warm side of the room between the studs / sheetrock?

I got people telling me that if I do what your suggesting it could trap moisture inside and cause mold / mildew to form from lack of air circulation. And they mention since I have the parameter drain system causing cooler air to seep up it will worsen the problem more. Not knocking you at all just showing what both sides have been telling me.

This has been the epic struggle. I have spend days on end researching this issue and have gotten tons of people going with one way or the other!
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Old 02-22-2008, 06:41 AM   #22
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No, you don't. How old is your home? If it is a newer home built in the past 30 years or so, then it should already be waterproofed on the exterior side of the wall (Applied black asphalt/tar). Adding anything on the interior side accomplishes nothing but wasting money and your time.



Yes.



I would not advise it. Attach to the concrete floor pad. If possible, leave 2" gap for air circulation between the new framed wall and the foundation frost walls.
The house is 1 1/2 years old. Would they have only applied the black asphalt on the part "underground". I have some pictures of my house but it had been backfilled already and I dont see any trace of black on the exposed areas.

Thanks
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Old 02-22-2008, 07:14 AM   #23
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The house is 1 1/2 years old. Would they have only applied the black asphalt on the part "underground". I have some pictures of my house but it had been backfilled already and I dont see any trace of black on the exposed areas.

Thanks
It is always applied at grade level. That is where your moisture will be.

Examples: Do you see it in either photo? It's there, I put it on myself. It's required per building code.



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Old 02-22-2008, 07:48 AM   #24
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I would hope then it was done if it is a standard code! I don't have many pictures of the foundation, I wish I would have before it was backfilled any. But its still pretty shocking that no black is creeping up at all. But I guess
yours doesn't show either.



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Old 02-22-2008, 07:58 AM   #25
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Call the builder and ask them.
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Old 02-22-2008, 08:05 AM   #26
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Call the builder and ask them.

I got the number ready! I do remember seeing the black stuff on my next door neighbors foundation, they had the same builder. So hopefully its ok in that case I get to save some money and time on sealent.

Thank you very much for the help, everyone here has been awesome and patient! I really appreciate it!
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Old 02-22-2008, 04:57 PM   #27
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Codes.. and the enigma!


Use a 2x6 for your top plate and bring the 2x4 to the inner edge this gives you fire stop and an air space all in one. The codes are a pain to learn and follow and they change them all the time. A code book will run you about $80 only for the contractor's version only, you still need one for electrical and maybe plumbing, its a lot to keep up with. Good luck, hope that helped and post agian if you get stuck
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Old 02-22-2008, 05:40 PM   #28
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6 Mil plastic from the top of the foundation wall down to the floor and let it come across the floor past the plane of the wall. Then frame your walls USING 2x4's and hold them off the wall a few inches so that you can plumb the walls.

Ramset the sole plate to the floor, nail your top plate to the floor joists above, you may have to shim, or install blocking if your joists run parallel to the wall.

Don't do this. Try buildingscience.com to get better info.
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Old 02-22-2008, 06:48 PM   #29
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Codes.. and the enigma!


code people must by law give yoou in detail all problems and it must be signed by both people right then before they leave the sight Idid adeck in my township and Iscrew the deck down and he failed it he said the spec calls for nails Iwent to the township meeting and asked how many of your decks are screw down a lot of people said their were acording toI NR C code book you can do either the next day the other codes person passed the deck with remarks deck is great now that codes guy will never inspect my work again all he had to do was read the book and use his brains ??????Ifeel codes are good but hire some one that been in the trade for 10 years thank you local poltics

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