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Old 09-17-2011, 08:35 AM   #1
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Cleanest Way on Scoring Drywall off Exisiting Walls


Any tips on Scoring Sheetrock off exisiting Walls.....I'm in the midst of removing partial wall - flooded, got mold.

Wood studs here. Sofar, I've been just doing this slow with scoring of box cutter, jab knife and then taking them out in large chunks (to minimize dusting).

I'm feeling tired and lazy....may just go to town with the sawzall......

Any other better ideas/suggestions on attacking this.

thx

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Old 09-17-2011, 08:55 AM   #2
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Sawzall is bad idea. Wiring, plumbing, HVAC, etc can be damaged very easily this way. If you can cut a small 8x8 hole first, often you can then inspect with a flashlight and mirror to see if all is clear. A small circular saw set to proper derth will work well but make a lot of dust. A lot of the time you are better off cutting out larger areas. A bunch of tiny patches is often more difficult and more expensive to d than one large repair.

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Old 09-17-2011, 08:59 AM   #3
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Correct. In some area's I'm scoring about 2 feet off the floor.
As I get to cleaner areas, I'm just scoring 1' - 15" off the floor depending on severit of the damage.

I know what's inside these walls and how much play I have....

Jab saw in double sheetrock walls is not fun
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Old 09-17-2011, 10:02 AM   #4
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sheetrock saw, or a circular saw set to correct dept (have someone follow you with the shopvac, and be ready to clean filter a lot).

personally I would consider just popping the seam at the 4ft mark and pulling out the bottom sheet. from a labor standpoint that is probably easier (half as many cuts!)
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Old 09-17-2011, 10:57 AM   #5
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A very sharp utility knife. Other wise, just use a hammer, which makes for great therapy. My house has Rock-lathe in it, so I had to use a pry bar and hammer when I gutted our bath, and took a wall down between the kitchen and dining rooms.
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Old 09-17-2011, 12:57 PM   #6
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Cleanest Way on Scoring Drywall off Exisiting Walls


the 4' has crossed my mind.....as it would be 1 sheet after another - just short of outlets, etc..


I dunno how often people do this..but one contractor recommending doing the entire bottom in Durock and then spackle ontop to make the surface paint grade ready....
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Old 09-17-2011, 02:49 PM   #7
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I don't know your situation but why Durarock? Are you planning more flooding or do you have constant moisture?
I do a lot of insurance work and when I get a flood job we go in and take out the bottom sheet. Why not make it easy and take the 4' sheet out, you don't even have to use a knife it will break the tape at the seam. You will spend a lot of extra time cutting a straight line then you will probably have areas that the water has wicked up past the area you cut then you will re-cut. Lets not even get into when you have to patch the cut out area because no matter how straight you think you cut the line it will not be easy to fit the cut piece of drywall. Take out the bottom sheet and replace with the same thickness of drywall.
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Old 09-17-2011, 03:47 PM   #8
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The Durock threw me off too.
One of the contractors I had in recommended it....
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Old 09-17-2011, 03:56 PM   #9
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Don't do any cement board, that is just a nutty idea. It's super hard to work with and getting it finished will be a nightmare. I also wouldn't invite that guy back for anything else either.

I have a small electric handheld jig saw. I installed a regular wood blade in it then pulled the stroke out as far as it would go. I then measured the length of the extended blade and broke it off at the 5/8" mark.

This way it will easily cut drywall and won't get into any other improvements that might be hidden inside the wall.
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Old 09-17-2011, 04:02 PM   #10
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Havalife - What are your thoughts on the insulation. Pull/ cut it at 4' or take it all out (fearing mold spores).

In my mind, it's remove sheetrock, remove flooring, spray down mold on studs and flooring.
Wipe down ......
After all this, with no more dust moving, etc - then remove insualtion at 4' and respray down studs again.
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Old 09-17-2011, 05:47 PM   #11
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I've had to deal with similar issues in this house - after removing the walls/subflooring I replaced seriously damaged joists/studs and for everything remaining I cleaned/coated with an appropriate treatment.

Sealing it - after it's dried - will prevent mold from coming back and spreading if you have a humid/hot summer in the future or possible other minor water damage like a leaky pipe.
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Old 09-18-2011, 05:54 AM   #12
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Cleanest Way on Scoring Drywall off Exisiting Walls


My Dremel multi-tool has a drywall blade. It would be slower than some other methods but makes a very sharp cut with almost no dust.
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Old 09-18-2011, 06:22 AM   #13
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I use a Sawsall with the blade mounted upside down---this will give a shallow cut ---

easy to control and no nicked studs or cut wires----Never had a problem.---Mike---
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Old 09-18-2011, 07:18 AM   #14
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I use a blade in backwards Sawzall too.

Although it still does require a certain level of finesse not to cut to deep that “some people” just aren’t capable of.
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Old 09-18-2011, 08:42 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by kwikfishron View Post
I use a blade in backwards Sawzall too.

Although it still does require a certain level of finesse not to cut to deep that “some people” just aren’t capable of.

Sometimes I think I say to much.

I had one fellow helping me who lacked the depth perception needed for this kind of work---Thank goodness I keep lots of plumbing parts on the truck!

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