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Old 04-28-2008, 09:34 PM   #1
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Hey all, I had a concrete patio pad poured last summer and would like to know what to use to seal up where the pad meets the foundation wall.
Should I just use masonary crack sealer or is there something else?

Also I would like to paint my garage floor but the part of concrete that is exposed when you close garage door seems to be flaking off the top, what would you recommend I use to repair that before I paint?

Thanks,
C

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Old 04-29-2008, 09:12 AM   #2
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Take a look at www.prosealproducts.com as they have some patching compounds that will really hold up in your garage door area. Also Pro-Seal 34 is a caulk which can be applied to where your concrete pad meets the wall. Pro-Seal 34 can be applied to wet or dry areas with immediate adhesion and seal. There is no waiting for curing.

Doc

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Old 04-29-2008, 09:33 AM   #3
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Thanks Doc, I will give that a look
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:56 AM   #4
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The support people there are great! If you have any concerns about product
suitability for your specific application call them and ask.

Doc
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Old 04-29-2008, 12:40 PM   #5
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Just as a heads up: We used some poly-carbonate caulk products and found that in time they got very hard and brittle and literally shattered under pressure. I'd use a polyurethane caulk like Sikaflex. Avoid silicones as they do not have real great adhesion to masonry. Sikaflex is available at the box stores.
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Old 04-29-2008, 02:21 PM   #6
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Hi Maintenance 6, I would like to know which brand you used. I have not heard of that problem with Pro-Seal 34. As you can in the product statements below, it never gets hard or brittle. If it did it would worthless for underwater use.

We all have a tendency to stay with products we know work for us. We can be reluctant to change. Pro-Seal 34 is simply another tool in your arsenal to help you get the job done.

Sorry, I did not mean to sound like a salesman. It just came out that way.



ADVANTAGES


Seals through rain & moving water
Never gets hard or brittle
1200% elongation
350% stretch
2 year shelf life
6 month open tube life
Paintable upon application

USES


Galvanized metal
Plaster
Wood
Aluminum
Stone
Concrete
Vinyl
Boats
Recreational Vehicles
And more!

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:


Pro-Seal 34 is a single component M34 elastoplastic, Polycarbon/Polycarbonate sealant material. Pro-Seal 34 stops leaks and seals on contact even through water and oil! Pro-Seal 34 is gunable from 380F to 980F and may be applied to surface temperatures ranging from -700F to +2200


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Old 04-29-2008, 04:30 PM   #7
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Hi Doc. The material we were using was called Seal-it 34. It was/is a polycarbonate based caulk which promised all of these same things. It did in fact caulk to galvanized steel and through water. I even attended a seminar put on by the manufacturer where they did some amazing things with it. The short version is that it worked fine for a while, but in time it got very brittle, especially when exposed to sunlight and absolutely shattered like glass in several instances. Our HVAC people used it to seal sumps in units and it was great, until it started to fail. The name caught my attention since it is very similar to Proseal 34. Perhaps they have made some serious improvements. I would certainly have another look at it if that is the case. They will need to "show me". I've managed some caulking projects that replaced literally miles of caulk joint on all kinds of surfaces and until somebody shows me something better I can only recommend what I know to be a good selection.
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Old 04-29-2008, 07:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maintenance 6 View Post
Just as a heads up: We used some poly-carbonate caulk products and found that in time they got very hard and brittle and literally shattered under pressure. I'd use a polyurethane caulk like Sikaflex. Avoid silicones as they do not have real great adhesion to masonry. Sikaflex is available at the box stores.
I second this recomendation (Polyurethane caulk and also the Sika brand sealant)
http://www.sikaconstruction.com/con/...-repair-sb.htm

Another good polyurethane caulk/sealant is BASF NP1: http://www.mbtaus.com.au/sealant/seal8.htm
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:00 PM   #9
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I will check that out and let you know if it was Seal-It 34. Sure sounds like the same thing.

I have it exposed 24x7 on a boat in several places. I used it because it is supposed to be immune to UV rays. A little over a year with no problems. Of course, now I'll have to go take a close look to be sure all is well.


I have used NP1. It is real tuff stuff.

Doc
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:00 AM   #10
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To the OP. The trick to getting a good seal on caulk joints, aside from selecting the right sealant, is to properly prepare the joint. Most caulk joints fail prematurely because of poor preparation and joint design. Most people seem to think that more is better when it comes to caulk. That is absolutely not the case. Make sure your surfaces are clean and dry. Use backer rod or bond breaker tape where needed. I found this site that shows some joint designs so you get the idea.

http://www.masterwall.com/files/mw14...lantdesign.pdf

As for the concrete surface. Is the concrete flaking? Or is the old coating coming off?
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:45 AM   #11
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Thanks for all the ideas guys.

Maint 6, the concrete is flaking
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Old 04-30-2008, 11:09 AM   #12
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Everybody, Here is the story behind the product Pro-Seal 34.

Seal-It 34 was made by Pro Seal, sold to another company as a private label.
Pro-Seal will no longer sell to other company's. They are aware of the issues with Seat-It 34 and claim those issues were caused by this other company's improper storage of the product.

Now they have complete control over all aspects of the product and claim there are no more issues.

Champion Metals (Metal Roofing) and ASC Building Products (Steel Roofing & Siding) call for Pro-Seal 34 and will void their warranty if it is not used.

Pro_Seal has reaffirmed that the product will not ever get hard or brittle.
It will form a skin and stay pliable.

Hope this helps clear the matter up. Perhaps you might find it worthy enough to try again.
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:20 PM   #13
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I agree Sonneborn NP1 and NP2. NP1 where moisture is not present during installation. NP2 where moisture is present. Silicones adhere to masonry quite well if its cleaned. I've done plenty of pull tests which passed with flying colors. 6" of elongation is pretty good to me. Pecora and Dow make excellent architectural silicones. Tremco dynameric 240 is also an great two part PU but its hard to find around here.
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Old 05-01-2008, 07:22 AM   #14
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Doc,
Thanks for the info. Sounds like you work for Proseal. If that's the case, I'd be happy to give them another shot. The concept of again being able to reseal galvanized AC sumps, (which are normally wet) without having to completely dry them would save us a lot of time.

Company's are producing some "next generation" silicones that claim a superior adhesion to masonry and I've looked at some. We recently did a few thousand feet of stone to stone joint with DOW silicone, but it hasn't been in place long enough to recommend. I've never seen any of these that are readily available to a DIY person. They are definately not the same products that you pick up at HD or Lowes. Same with the 2-part polyurethanes. They are great products, and will far outlast single components, but not really suited for a homeowner application and normally not available in smaller quantities. (unless you own a bulk gun and plan to caulk the whole neighborhood)
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Old 05-01-2008, 07:47 AM   #15
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To the OP. If the flaking is severe, and remember, I haven't seen it, you will probably have to coat it with a repair product. Most of the stuff available to homeowners is sad. If you can find a product that says Methyl Methacrylate (MMA) or Acrylic Polymer somewhere on the package, it will perform better than plain portland cement. Some may say acrylic modified portland cement. These will usually adhere better. I have not looked in the big box stores to see what they have available lately. If the problem is just aethetic, then clean the loose stuff off and coat it. Unless you know the moisture content of the concrete floor, avoid epoxy coatings, as they don't breath well and will trap moisture under the surface which will build pressure until it blisters.

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