Boxing in overhang

Uncle David · 10-24-2009, 12:16 PM

My house was built in 1947 and recently I had a my roof replaced. For city code the roofers had to use a longer nail for the roofing which has penetrated through my overhang and looks unsightly. My only options are to repaint over the penetrating nails or box in the overhang.

Only problem with the overhang is nothing is even along the fascia board. Some of the rafters are even with the fascia board at the bottom and some can be off as much as an half inch from the bottom.

I thought about using half inch plywood for boxing in the eaves and bringing it flush with the existing fascia board and using UPVC as a cover board over the existing fascia. I have about an 1/2 to 3/4 inch gap between the metal flashing/ drip eadge and my existing fascia board.

I'm not sure which is the best route to go or if someone could give some input on what I should do.

4just1don · 10-24-2009, 05:40 PM

I dont completely understand what you are describing but why not just put steel or alum soffit material up and use the steel or alum. fascia cover. I 'wasted' my time once putting up plywood when soffit material would be nearly as cheap and 3 times as durable!! THEN when you decide to put siding on the rest of your house,that part is already done!!

12penny · 10-24-2009, 05:51 PM

...I think he has exposed rafter tails and wants to keep them, now he needs a way to make the exposed nails not so obvious.

**Gary in WA** · 10-24-2009, 08:05 PM

Welcome to the forum! Sorry to hear the nails are poking through on the overhang. Asphalt 3-tab manufacturer's used to let you use shorter nails on the overhangs and still warranty their product. The code is min. 3/4" into sheathing or through if sheathing is <3/4".
And most inspectors will accept short nails there only for looks. You cannot clip them flush and paint, even if galvanized. If you go closed soffits, plan ahead on the gable ends for the returns and how they will look. Install continuous screened vents for air supply right next to the fascia board so not to get wind driven snow and rain into attic space. Drill each bay blocks with 3- 2" holes. Add continuous ridge venting with baffles if not there already.
Be safe, Gary