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Old 05-23-2011, 07:28 PM   #1
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bolt stuck dilemna


I have a tile saw: the blade is held in place by a hexagonal nut~3/4" bearing on a flange that secures the blade. On top of this hexagonal nut there is a smaller nut, which has 2 flat opposing surfaces. (see picture).

The blade is stuck and I do not understand the engineering of the bolts. Is the uppermost small nut with the flat opposing surfaces a locking nut? Right now the nuts are stuck fast and I cannot liberate them in order to fit a new blade.
Since I do not understand the engineering I do not know how best to approach liberating the blade. I have tried WD40. Please can I be advised as to how to best move forward.

Angus
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Old 05-23-2011, 07:51 PM   #2
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If any of the threads are visible, make sure it isn't reverse threaded. Second, for rust, PBBlaster works best. Last, you could try heating the bolt. To me, it looks like the big 3/4" is part of the collar and probably there to allow a wrench to give counter force when loosening the little bolt. I would suspect that after you get the little one loose (lock bolt), the 3/4 inch one is threaded as well and will back out.

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Old 05-23-2011, 08:08 PM   #3
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spray on PBBlaster today - come back tomorrow and take it apart
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:09 PM   #4
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I will get some PBblaster first and soak as suggested.
My concern is that the small top bolt is reverse threaded! And I have been trying to turn it in the wrong direction. Can you tell by inspection? The saw blade rotates freely clockwise and counter clockwise. So I am wondering if I should hold the larger bolt (3/4") bolt steady (or counter clockwise) with my wrench and try and turn the smaller top bolt clockwise with a second wrench? Would this be logically correct?<<any comment>>

I wonder if PBblaster contains phosphoric acid to dissolve the rust? I have not heard of this product, but WD40 did not help me. Mind you if I have been turning in the wrong direction that would not help.

Angus
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:16 PM   #5
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With saws, holding the blade with a folded rag, and 'sharply' rapping on a box end wrench with a hammer always does the trick for me.
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Last edited by Willie T; 05-23-2011 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:00 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angusmdmclean View Post
I will get some PBblaster first and soak as suggested.
My concern is that the small top bolt is reverse threaded! And I have been trying to turn it in the wrong direction. Can you tell by inspection? The saw blade rotates freely clockwise and counter clockwise. So I am wondering if I should hold the larger bolt (3/4") bolt steady (or counter clockwise) with my wrench and try and turn the smaller top bolt clockwise with a second wrench? Would this be logically correct?<<any comment>>

I wonder if PBblaster contains phosphoric acid to dissolve the rust? I have not heard of this product, but WD40 did not help me. Mind you if I have been turning in the wrong direction that would not help.

Angus
If you can see any of the threads on the small bolt you can. The bolt turns in the direction of the upward incline to loosen. Get a regular bolt and look at those threads, hold it next to the little bolt. If the incline is in the opposite direction, it's a reverse thread.

Do you have access to an air impact gun? I use mine for tough bolts all the time. I use a 6 point (not a 12 pt) socket and hit it with the impact gun. Or an impact tool you strike with a hammer is another good tool to use.
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Old 05-25-2011, 02:21 AM   #7
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Contact the manufacturer.
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Old 05-25-2011, 05:23 AM   #8
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I can't tell from sure by looking at the picture, but my first thought is that the "smaller nut with two flat surfaces" is probably not a separate nut at all, but rather the shaft itself, and the two flat surfaces are there so that you can hold the shaft while initially loosening and finally tightening the nut that holds the blade in place. As the guys said, use something like PB Blaster, after which I believe that you should be able to position a wrench on the large nut, another wrench on the two flats, and squeeze them together to lossen the nut, assuming that you have them oriented properly. And, simply for future reference, the reason that the guys suggested PB Blaster is that WD40 can be great for preventing rust, but it does nothing, as far as I have ever seen, as far as cutting through existing rust.
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:01 AM   #9
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DEXTER and others: Thank you for your excellent comments. Overnight I soaked the relevant part in PBblaster. The advice I got from the supplier of this saw (The Tile Shop) is that I should immobilize the blade and simply screw the larger nut counter clockwise that bears onto the flange and it should come loose. I tried this by jamming a piece of wood into the saw and using rags plus wearing work gloves over hand to secure the blade and tried with a 3/4" wrench to loosen the hexagonal nit (see photo). I was unable to immobilize the blade to the extent I needed so it did not loosen

I like Dexter II's brilliant suggestion: the problem here is the size of the flat piece is such that I cannot get a wrench around it well.
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:06 AM   #10
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bolt stuck dilemna


Just clamp the wheel in a table vise.
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:47 AM   #11
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My tile saw has a blade lock button on the housing. You push it in and turn the nut to loosen.
Some saws require 2 wrenches and one fits behind the blade to stabilize the shaft.
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Old 05-25-2011, 11:22 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron6519 View Post
My tile saw has a blade lock button on the housing. You push it in and turn the nut to loosen.
Some saws require 2 wrenches and one fits behind the blade to stabilize the shaft.
Ron
I have one that has a hole behind the blade that accepts a screw driver to stop the shaft from turning.
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:16 PM   #13
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bolt stuck dilemna


Thanks to all: I future I will be more careful what tile saw I buy. I will also grease prior to blade insertion. The constant exposure to water has caused extensive corrosion. It i saslo a good idea to remove the blade now and tehn clean and regrease.

This was a low end saw and it was OK for teh project I used it for. I am not going to pursue working on it.

It is costing too much in terms of equipmetn adn my time. It is going to be thrown out .

I tried my Dremel to cut the bolt: this was working slowly but it seemed to me that I was going to damage the shaft. So out it goes. I have reported my recommendationks to teh Tile Shop: it is to change the design of the nut that bears onto the flange. The little piece on the outside is too small to work with.

I am looking for a new tile saw; any recommendations folks

ANGUS
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Old 05-25-2011, 07:05 PM   #14
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bolt stuck dilemna


I threw the tile saw into the trunk of my car with view to driving to the county dump ad heaving the saw out. When I did this it make a noise when it hit my long criss-cross tire wrench (used for tire bolts) It made me wonder whether it would fit the nut. I checked and it did so I made on least effort as follows:

I stabilized the blade in positon with my vice grip wrench (that worked) and turned the nut with my long tire wrench. It worked and the nut came off. The shaft ithread s in good condition, but the nut is not so good. {You can see that the flat piece on the top is indeed part of the shaft}.

I am now trying to find a replacement nut. It is metric (size M12 x 1.5). I was insuccessful at HD. The folks at teh Tile Shop are exploring whether they can get one for me.

I am thinkinjg of the best prodcut to apply prior to attaching my new blade.
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Old 05-25-2011, 08:13 PM   #15
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Try an auto parts store---they are a good source for larger metric nuts---that is left hand thread? You may need to contact the maker.

Saw brands to look at----MK--the 101 is a work horse,---Felker--Husquevarna--target---

Used is good---

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