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|12-23-2013, 02:05 PM||#16|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Illinois (kankakee county)
Posts: 1,349Rewards Points: 534
One problem is osb hates water. Plywood is a completely different ballgame. Hopefully it will dry out.
|12-23-2013, 06:18 PM||#17|
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,296Rewards Points: 4,658
OSB holds water - from framing especially. When it is raining and the wall is being sheathed, flat on the deck, the water puddles in between studs and sags the OSB even more, collecting even more liquid sunshine- after raising the wall, the surface pooling water has absorbed into the material due to capillarity. It will take much longer to dry than plywood of the same thickness; about 2-3 weeks if in a hot-humid climate (or possibly less with temp heat from blower (salamander) as it is same as exposed (natural) OSB, Fig.14; http://repository.tamu.edu/bitstream...pdf?sequence=4
The differences in the wetting could be a different batch (different mill) or it was dry the day the wall was framed. Most OSB is made with a 1/2# of wax added to make it more water resistant and prevent edge swelling. The GC should get some temp heat in there or hopefully you have a high-perm house wrap (like Tyvek) that allows moisture to escape easily; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja
That is not your biggest concern, IMHO.
1. A minor note; post a picture of the joists from the basement of the first column (bearing) under the manufactured beam from the stair wall.
2. The rafters bearing on the exterior walls in pictures require hangers. Any rafter material that is inboard of the bearing plate should be supported or the rafter should be setting on its "heel" portion- not "toe" portion; pp.38, Fig.19; http://books.google.com/books?id=iwS...joists&f=false
The rafters most likely are over-cut at the apex, similar to over-cutting a floor joist leading to splitting the wood at the apex, #2, check the sides of your rafters; http://www.finehomebuilding.com/pdf/021184090.pdf
Like tapering, cutting a birdsmouth into a rafter reduces
the load-carrying capacity of the member. A common error
with low-slope rafters is excessive cutting of the rafter seat.
This leaves the rafter bearing not on the heel of the seat, as it
should, but on the toe. This reduces the effective size of the
rafter, producing stresses that can create splits at the bearing
point, and eventually, a sagging rafter." From;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...58187178,d.cGU
Which is why building codes give "Rafter/ceiling joist heel connections"--- last table at bottom; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...9_8_par027.htm -------- ask your local AHJ. I had a Inspector once reqire 2x4 hangers added after I level cut (1-1/2") the heel portion inside the wall, face nailed to the double top plates of wall.
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17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
Last edited by Gary in WA; 12-23-2013 at 06:33 PM.
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