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Old 01-10-2010, 08:27 PM   #1
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Base Moulding Question


What is the best way to handle a butt joint in base moulding? 45 both pieces and overlap or just butt one piece against the next?

Also, how much gap should I leave? We are putting in a thick freesia and 1/2" looks to be about right with the test pieces I've tacked up.


Last edited by diykc; 01-10-2010 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:55 PM   #2
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Base Moulding Question


Depends on the profile of the base mouldings. Some of them are difficult to cope cut.
45 miter cuts should work, although on some corners, you may need to cut 44 or 46 degree angles to get a good fit. Or something in between.

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Old 01-10-2010, 09:25 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by jlhaslip View Post
Depends on the profile of the base mouldings. Some of them are difficult to cope cut.
45 miter cuts should work, although on some corners, you may need to cut 44 or 46 degree angles to get a good fit. Or something in between.

Thanks JL, what I'm asking is where I have a long run and have to splice pieces together, is it better to 45 each end or just butt them together. I have 4 long runs like this.
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Old 01-10-2010, 09:46 PM   #4
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Base Moulding Question


Scarf joints are usually cut in joining pieces mid-span.
Cut them at 22 1/2 or 30 degrees, stain/paint the ends in case of shrinkage. Nail both pieces near the joint.
Best way is to nail the first piece hard. Cut and nail the joint and work the nailing to the far end.

*edit*

A scarf joint is a matching angled cut on two pieces that join in the middle.
The angle is not critical as long as the matching pieces get the same cut.

Last edited by jlhaslip; 01-10-2010 at 09:57 PM.
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:49 AM   #5
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Base Moulding Question


I generally 45 and glue them to keep from separating....
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Old 01-11-2010, 11:01 AM   #6
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Base Moulding Question


I scarf the joint at 45*, and typically put a trim-nail right through both pieces, into the wall, at the joint (if it is not delicate molding that may crack/splinter). Since I use white trim, a quick fill with latex caulk, and touch-up with the same white paint I used for the trim makes the joints virtually disappear.
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:02 PM   #7
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Base Moulding Question


The caulking mentioned above is the key. Most joints are just painted over but with a little caulking smeared into the space you have to look really hard to find the joint after you have painted it.
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:01 AM   #8
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Base Moulding Question


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Originally Posted by hyunelan2 View Post
I scarf the joint at 45*, and typically put a trim-nail right through both pieces, into the wall, at the joint (if it is not delicate molding that may crack/splinter). Since I use white trim, a quick fill with latex caulk, and touch-up with the same white paint I used for the trim makes the joints virtually disappear.

Thank you! I like it. I nailed closed to each end but I like the idea of pinning them together at the joint and caulk was already in the plans!!
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:09 AM   #9
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Base Moulding Question


A scarf joint is typically used in production grade trim jobs. Forty-five degrees is typical, reinforced with glue. If done correctly caulk is not necessary but a light sanding of the joint may be. The "best way" to join the two lengths is by doweling them together essentially making one reinforced full length piece. This is usually specified in "high end" trim applications.

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