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Old 09-02-2012, 05:40 PM   #1
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To all the members here, thank you!


A little background, I'm 24 years old, and recently bought an investment property. It was a foreclosure that I got for 1/4 of it's appraised value. It needed A LOT of work, particularly the entire floor on both levels due to animal excriment (the reason I was able to get such a sweet deal). A LOT soapy bleach water, a broom, and Killz original oil based primer, not water base as the urine will always seep through, by the way, will remedy this issue. Anyway, to the point. The stairs were the last project on my list of ongoing renovations to this place. They were carpeted pine, very narrow, and smelt like pee. They had to go and needed widened. Well, to bring you up to speed, my only experience up to this point has been wood shop and building trades throughout high school and roofing for a few years out of. I've been in the Marine Corps for the rest of the time and am now out. Anyway, I didn't really know where to begin and wasn't completely confident of how to take on the staircase. So I did a lot of research via google asking questions pertaining to the matter and usually found the same question being asked on this forum in the search results. I found the replys to these questions from members of this
forum particularly helpful and simply stated so that I could easily understand. I can't tell you how many times I stood staring at my unfinished work as if I'd gotten in way over my head an level of expertise. I almost always found the answer from this site, and for that, I have to give thanks to you all and share some pictures of my finished work.

http://m1051.photobucket.com/albums/...xLWiZ6gxMr0%3D

My only disappointments are that I didn't miter the risers to the skirtboards on the open section of the staircase at the bottom. I didn't feel I had the skill to do the job based on my cutting of the skirtboard to stringers and that I had the tools necessary to do the job. Instead, I just cut the risers flush to the face of the skirtboard and am planning on covering the raw end with 1" lath strips the same thickness as the lip of the cove moulding I will put up under the bullnose of the treads. I've already seen it on a new construction home's staircase and it looks good, although maybe not as good as if it were mitered. That, and a few gaps (biggest was 1/8") between the treads/risers and the skirtboard. I made my own gauge so the rest turned out perfect, however, there were a few times I forgot to lock the selector on the mitre saw before I started cutting and quickly found myself nowhere near my scribe lines on the tread and or riser and I had already cut the other end to width. They didn't look TOO bad once in, but I'm a bit of a perfectionist, so I wasn't having it. I just used some clear, 100% silicone on all butted joints, regardless of whether there were gaps or not, and now, they're virtually unnoticeable but I still KNOW they're there. o_O Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks again, and share this with you guys.

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Doc Holliday (09-02-2012)
Old 09-02-2012, 09:01 PM   #2
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To all the members here, thank you!


Thanks for sharing that--

Many members,especially the stairs and electricians---have a great degree of patience--those are complicated items to help with and I admire the teaching that goes on in those sections.

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Old 09-02-2012, 10:28 PM   #3
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To all the members here, thank you!


Those stairs look great! Wanna come do mine?
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