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Old 10-18-2012, 01:54 PM   #1
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Yes, another ledger board thread...


I know there is quite a bit of discussion on here regarding the proper installation and flashing of a ledger board but I thought it would be easiest to get specific answers to my specific questions by starting this thread.
I am planning to add on to my existing 20' x 8' deck by adding 8' to the 20' length and 8' to the 8' depth, making it 28' x 16'. The existing ledger is through-bolted and flashed with a flat vinyl material behind the ledger extending a few inches up under the siding above the deck floor and another 90 degree piece of the same material extending up under the siding and over the top of the ledger and about a half inch over the joists.

Shouldn't that 90 degree piece actually be a "Z" and extend down over the front of the ledger between the ledger and joist ends?

I have seen rolls of this flat vinyl sheeting at big box stores, can it be easily formed into a "Z" shape?

When adding the 8' ledger should the flashing behind the existing ledger and the new flashing be overlapped and taped or caulked in any particular manner?

What is the proper way to attach this flashing to the sheathing? I can see existing flashing was only stapled to the sheathing.

When bolting on the ledger, should these bolts be caulked inside the bolt holes as well as around the bolt head and washer?

And what about spacing out the ledger? It seems like the most secure attachment would be without spacers. Assuming the ledger is properly flashed, then there would be no real benefit to using spacers?

Also, pressure treated plywood was used for the house sheathing behind the ledger rather than OSB. Is it advisable to do the same where I will be adding the 8' ledger? Cut out the existing OSB and replace with PT plywood?

Thanks in advance!

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Old 10-18-2012, 02:38 PM   #2
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Yes, another ledger board thread...


the spacer are an attempt to prevent any moisture from getting behind the ledger and causing rot. also what happens to moisture trapped between the dwelling and ledger in winter? water expands when it freezes and can cause a slight lateral motion. over time this can loosen the connection. remember decks that fail typically fail when people are on them.

I would recommend reviewing the American Wood Council's "Prescriptive Residential Wood Deck Construction Guide." This is based upon the 2009 International Residential Code, basis for most local and state building codes.

This link will provide you with information about metal connectors used in deck construction.

this is the ledger detail I typically use.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:40 PM   #3
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Yes, another ledger board thread...


be sure to properly size your beam where you are attaching the new deck to the existing. see Table 3 on page 5 of the Construction Guide.

post back with any questions.
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:34 PM   #4
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Yes, another ledger board thread...


Shouldn't that 90 degree piece actually be a "Z" and extend down over the front of the ledger between the ledger and joist ends?
- Yes it should or water can run back under the flashing and on top of the wood.

I have seen rolls of this flat vinyl sheeting at big box stores, can it be easily formed into a "Z" shape?
- Not if it is the type I am thinking of. Metal is easier to bend, I can possibly give a link if you want
- I prefer to use a rubber membrane often used around windows. It is a peel and stick.


When adding the 8' ledger should the flashing behind the existing ledger and the new flashing be overlapped and taped or caulked in any particular manner?
- Yes do so as not to allow water in. If there is a slope take that into account, or prevailing wind direction if flat.

What is the proper way to attach this flashing to the sheathing? I can see existing flashing was only stapled to the sheathing.
- Staples or nails are fine as long as it goes up the wall high enough.

When bolting on the ledger, should these bolts be caulked inside the bolt holes as well as around the bolt head and washer?
- If you use the rubber membrane it can go over the bolt heads.

And what about spacing out the ledger? It seems like the most secure attachment would be without spacers. Assuming the ledger is properly flashed, then there would be no real benefit to using spacers?
- Spacers are used to allow drying behind the ledger, proper flashing is a much better idea.
- I only use spacers if attaching to concrete or brick wher flashing under the siding is not do-able.

Also, pressure treated plywood was used for the house sheathing behind the ledger rather than OSB. Is it advisable to do the same where I will be adding the 8' ledger? Cut out the existing OSB and replace with PT plywood?
- HMMMMMM. maybe an OK idea but if properly flashed it is not needed.

Read the links already given. Good info!!!!!
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:08 PM   #5
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Yes, another ledger board thread...


could use a product like Grace Vycor Plus http://www.na.graceconstruction.com/...24_Guide-B.pdf
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:26 PM   #6
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Yes, another ledger board thread...


Is it really required to seal the lag bolts on the outside as well? I just shot a small amount of caulk in each hole when I screwed them in. Do you think I should cover the exposed heads? or does it matter?
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:46 AM   #7
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Yes, another ledger board thread...


Quote:
Originally Posted by mae-ling View Post
Shouldn't that 90 degree piece actually be a "Z" and extend down over the front of the ledger between the ledger and joist ends?
- Yes it should or water can run back under the flashing and on top of the wood.

I have seen rolls of this flat vinyl sheeting at big box stores, can it be easily formed into a "Z" shape?
- Not if it is the type I am thinking of. Metal is easier to bend, I can possibly give a link if you want
- I prefer to use a rubber membrane often used around windows. It is a peel and stick.

When adding the 8' ledger should the flashing behind the existing ledger and the new flashing be overlapped and taped or caulked in any particular manner?
- Yes do so as not to allow water in. If there is a slope take that into account, or prevailing wind direction if flat.

What is the proper way to attach this flashing to the sheathing? I can see existing flashing was only stapled to the sheathing.
- Staples or nails are fine as long as it goes up the wall high enough.

When bolting on the ledger, should these bolts be caulked inside the bolt holes as well as around the bolt head and washer?
- If you use the rubber membrane it can go over the bolt heads.

And what about spacing out the ledger? It seems like the most secure attachment would be without spacers. Assuming the ledger is properly flashed, then there would be no real benefit to using spacers?
- Spacers are used to allow drying behind the ledger, proper flashing is a much better idea.
- I only use spacers if attaching to concrete or brick wher flashing under the siding is not do-able.

Also, pressure treated plywood was used for the house sheathing behind the ledger rather than OSB. Is it advisable to do the same where I will be adding the 8' ledger? Cut out the existing OSB and replace with PT plywood?
- HMMMMMM. maybe an OK idea but if properly flashed it is not needed.

Read the links already given. Good info!!!!!
* Is the membrane called Vycor?

* Could I use that same membrane to seal the flashing seam?

* Again, could the membrane be used as flashing behind the ledger and would it even adhere to the tar paper on the wall? Or should I stick with the flat vinyl sheeting? If using the vinyl, should it only be nailed above the ledger as to not allow any access for water behind the ledger?
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:52 AM   #8
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Yes, another ledger board thread...


Is the membrane called Vycor?
- GB linksto it and that is one good brand of it

* Could I use that same membrane to seal the flashing seam?
- I use it instead of a flashing, ot under a flashing if i want a colored flashing for looks over it. It only seals on one side so caulk would be better in the seam.

* Again, could the membrane be used as flashing behind the ledger and would it even adhere to the tar paper on the wall?
- Yes , it should stick

Or should I stick with the flat vinyl sheeting?
- Not sure if you can bend it

If using the vinyl, should it only be nailed above the ledger as to not allow any access for water behind the ledger?
- Yes any flashing should only be nailed so as not to allow water to come through the nails. At the top edge along the wall.
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:25 PM   #9
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Yes, another ledger board thread...


"Shouldn't that 90 degree piece actually be a "Z" I've always been more concerned with water getting between ledger ( or flashing) and end grain of joist. End grain absorbs water. I use wide right angle, over strips of double sided adhesive self sealing rubber flashing on joist under flashing.After a few deck boards are on over flashing It is sometimes possible to use hammer handle to curve outer edge of flashing down between joist, a curved shallow valley so water drains away from ledger side. If you want to put Z or 1 1/2"X ledger depth right angle on before that, it would not hurt. Joists themselves should have slight slope away from ledger, 1/2" over 16' is not gonna be noticeable.

If you want spacers, make them same width as ledger, fasten thru ledger and thru them to wall.

If you replace OSB, caulk joints, make sure flashing covers joints and seams, no flashing or siding seam directly over seam in material beneath it.

Avoid nailing or screwing thru horzontal parts of flashing. Self sealing membrane under flashing under deck boards or any where else that you have to pierce flashing is good idea. Membrane can go over fasteners, but upstream edge needs to be under some other flashing or membrane.

Big blob of caulk under washers of ledger bolts, big blob covering it all.

If i can get away with it, I rip first deck board to about 1 1/2 or 2 and put flashing, caulked on vertical outer side, behind siding over bead of caulk over deck to first gap. Use a color "matched" flashing. Open the right angle flashing to a more V shape by running hammer handle long it so it stays tight to deck with no nails.

Rubbing all that flashing with hammer puts grooves in handle so it doesn't fly out of hand when they are all covered with wet slippery caulk.
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:04 PM   #10
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Yes, another ledger board thread...


After all the nit-picking and details it is obvious that most people seem to prefer a free-standing deck if it is at all possible because of the simplicity. - That is before the ledger attached systems cause big time problems down the road and people like me get dragged in to look at the results, followed by structural replacement and moisture/mold contractors.

Dick

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