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Old 02-23-2009, 06:24 AM   #16
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Sparky, I'm not sure I undersatnd this but I have had replacement windows offered to me built several ways. One method is to go stud to stud on the inside opening. Another is to reuse the existing wood framework and insert your vinyl into it.
When I look at new homes now from the outside, I notice many windows are built brick to brick allowing no space for traditional brick mold, simply a 3/4 vinyl extrusion running against the brick.
However vinyl windows are also built with a brick mold slot so a snap in molding snaps into the slot and then butts against your brick.
Either way I think I will do my own install so I have been looking at newer homes and retrofits. After doing my measurments my call to the supplier indicated if you have them built brick to brick you eliminate the need for mold. Otherwise you simply allow for spacing around the window for whatever brick mold you choose.


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Old 02-23-2009, 07:01 AM   #17
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Chemist is correct there are many trim options with windows these days.
I also like to do a full unit replacment it gives you a good opportunity to properly flash and insulate.It is usually a more expensive way to aprotch it tho but worth it if you ask me, it is also a good time to get rid of any lead based paint that could be on the inside trim

you should always leave a little room between any masonary and the window unit,dont measure to tight and use a ureathane window and siding caulk

Last edited by Tom Struble; 02-23-2009 at 07:06 AM.
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Old 02-23-2009, 11:59 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Sparky 55 View Post
You guys may have answered this one, but am I correct in starting the wrap for the side jambs from the inner side of the blind stop, bringing it out and around to the brick? which will cover the blind stop? Thanks
This drawing should be of some help. Name:  Alum Window capping.bmp
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Size:  20.4 KB
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Old 02-23-2009, 03:39 PM   #19
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Chemist and Struble, The type of window you're talking about requires removing the interior trim and the entire window and frame? If so, that would be a lot of work, but make the exterior finish product look great. My interior trim is natural finished Gum wood about 6" wide. I'll have to think about this !!
buletbob, thanks for the drawing. That's exactly what I needed to know on the wrap.
One more question if I may: Are any of you familiar with Kolbe windows?
How about Polaris?

And thanks for all the good advice and direction.
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Old 02-23-2009, 04:39 PM   #20
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nice diagram Bob
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Old 02-24-2009, 07:18 AM   #21
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In response to the original post, I try to rarely use any nails when capping the existing frame. I put hems on both the brick side and window side of the cap for strength, trim to fit, then apply a generous amount of high viscosity silicone, such as Novaflex, onto the wood frame, then apply the cap. I do the sill first, with only a hem along the brick side if the replacement window leaves a gap and the cap can be slid under it, the sides next so that they sit atop the sill cap, then finally the top cap. Most replacement windows come with a piece of snap-in trim for the gap along the bottom that then gets trimmed and snapped into place. Then seal all joints in the cap and where it joins to the window. Occasionally a nail or two must be used, then, use aluminum siding nails with a nail set, being carefull to not over drive the nail. As with nailing aluminum fascia, try to 'waller' out the hole slightly to prevent bending during expansion/contraction. If you have to replace any wood, keep in mind that aluminum coil is not meant to wrap pressure treated wood.
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Old 04-21-2010, 04:09 AM   #22
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Sparky55, I have the same replacement window/Brick facia install that you had. In reading the posts here, it seems that 2 wrap designs were presented:
1). Buletbob suggested an inverted slot design - that is, the brick edge was bent to the inside of the house and slid into a cut made between the window and the brick. Then caulking was applied.
2). Tomstruble suggested an "Z" design - that is the brick edge was bent to the outside of the house with a 1/2" flare. The brick to frame caulking was done BEFORE the alum wrap was applied.

Which design did you use? Or did you use a different approach. It seems to me that option 2 is less labor intensive and might be a cleaner appearance since there is alot of old caulk and paint that is on my bricks near the frame.

Hope you guys see this and can respond. Thanks


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