Woodstove Wall Clearance

md2lgyk

Installing a wood stove in my log home. I want to minimize the clearance from the combustible wall. The information I'm finding on the web talks about using asbestos millboard. Can you even buy that stuff anymore? What is used now? It also talks about 28 ga. sheet metal, spaced an inch off the wall. For aesthetic reasons, that's a no-go.

Here's what I'm planning: behind the stove, a wall framed with steel studs and covered with cement board and then stone veneer. This wall will also partially support a small mantel the wife wants. Will this be enough to reduce the clearance requirement to, say, 12-16 inches? If not, what else should I do? Some vents to promote airflow behind the cement board?

Please don't suggest asking the inspector. I've pulled a permit for the chimney, but none is required for the actual stove installation.

oh'mike

I have a heat shield leaning against the wall behind the stove---It get's very warm but the wall stays cool----the heat shield is just a sheet of 1/2" durrock.

I always wanted to pick up a cast iron bottom plate from an old 5 armed monster furnace to use as a heat shield--they look interesting--but no luck on scoring one yet.

This does not meet code,of course--so as the saying goes---you are an adult so you must assume the risk.---Mike---

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Farmsteader

This might interest you on heating your place, it is about RMH Rocket Mass Heaters, they work well and use much less fuel ,(wood) . It is worth a look. They even have one with a wood stove and mass comb built around it and it saves about 50% on fuel.
http://tinyurl.com/3t7tsd2

oh'mike

Nice info Farmsteader

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josall

You might call your insurance company to see if they have any requirements.

Orangeclawhamme

I just did an install on a new stove. My clearance for a Vermont castings 1975 stove was 5" away from the drywall, not stone, but drywall. If you are going to buy a new stove, they really don't require much clearance at all. The manufacturer should have recommendations as to how far away from what material.

If using an older stove, try to download the manual for it before installing it. Hearth dot com is a great resource for all things about wood stoves.

Personally, as Farmsteader said, a rocket stove would have been my first choice if my wife wouldn't have killed me for installing one. Best part about one of those is that they are practically free. Just need a steel 55 gallon drum, fire brick, and clay. Similar premise to a masonry stove, but a lot easier on the wallet.

TheCamper

There are a great many different types of stoves on the market that are designed for various solid burning fuels so you really have to look at your specific stove. Whenever you are determining clearances you have to look at the manufacturer's specifications. The stove was tested and when installed to specs will be safe. The manufacturer may sell a heat shield that will mount on the back, sides and possibly the bottom of the unit, this allows for reduced clearances. Follow the specs, and take note if the specs say distance to "combustible surfaces" or "combustible construction".

Farmsteader

on RMHs , Rocket Mass Heater, or stoves

You can make them as attractive as you wish, just takes some creativity and maybe some more expense ,plus the added Value of another cook spot to warm up your Coffee or Tea Pot,yes you can flat out cook on them as well . The extra mass Bench Seat or Doggie's Bed is just warm and cozy to snuggle up on . http://donkey32.proboards.com/index.cgi - forum
and this link for the latest book-
http://www.rocketstoves.com/

HAve Fun,

md2lgyk

Thanks for all the replies. The Rocket Mass Heater looks interesting, but I already have the stove I'm going to install. It is an old Timberline box stove, circa 1979. I have been unable to find a manual for it. That's one reason I've been relying on NFPA standards. I can't imagine any manufacturer would build a stove with clearance requirements greater than NFPA's.

oh'mike

I like the box wood stoves---nice big box and long,too.

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Bud Cline

Your information needs to come from the stove manufacturer and not a bunch of loose and random suggestions from an Internet forum.

Your earlier suggestions will work as long as you use mortar to adhere the faux stone to the wall surface and you should not have any roofing paper anywhere in the process. This goes for using any of the new plastic expanded meshes on the market, they are also a no-go.

Get your "distance to wall specifications" from the stove manufacturer and live with it or you may find in the event of a claim your insurance company may not offer any kind of a settlement in the event of a fire. Assuming there is anyone remaining alive to settle with.

Farmsteader

The point i was trying to make , is you can take a safe clearance from the wall , which is in the RMH book or download, and they also have an existing metal Box heater that achieves more than 50% less wood used , this is a very important savings, plus you can attach it to a Wall or Comb bench for direct heat. These do meet Codes and Standards like any other , in fact there is one Architect in the Publication that has one in his office and cooks coffee on it. ANyways i thought i would share this, for you and Future Wood Heater users , this info is Valuable to learn. Best wishes,

Froggie31

Assuming that u install the flagstone in a defined area. So that it joins up to the bamboo in a straight line than u can install a thresh plate or molding. For me it would be easier to work with the flagstone than the bamboo flooring, you can break the stone and mortar it as needed