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Old 11-14-2011, 09:02 AM   #1
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Wood Stove Old Masonry Chimney


I have had my chimney inspected by a chimney pro. The old chimney has no crack or loose mortar, but it is not lined.

He proposed installation of SS liner for either an open fire place or wood stove. I am planning on buying a wood stove but I cannot afford the cost for a SS liner now, and am wondering if I can just run a stove pipe or chimney pipe all the way through my masonry chimney and then connect to wood stove.

He charges about $100 per foot for liner and stove installation.

Can anyone give me some advices? Thanks.

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Old 11-14-2011, 10:24 AM   #2
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Wood Stove Old Masonry Chimney


A liner is going to be much more affordable and less dangerous than a chimney or house fire. Depending on where you are, one may be required to meet code and/or insurance requirements.


Last edited by user1007; 11-14-2011 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 11-14-2011, 05:59 PM   #3
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Wood Stove Old Masonry Chimney


GO with the SS liner. It might be more out of pocket now,.....but far less expensive in the long run. The local FD (of which I am a member,) get very busy in the winter with chimney fires in the older homes. Even when we save the home, there is a lot of damage.
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Old 11-15-2011, 01:18 PM   #4
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Wood Stove Old Masonry Chimney


As stated above it does depend on local codes. Where I live it is possible to connect the stovepipe to a register plate in the chimney gather, providing that the flue is in good condition.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UD1CCGosKsA
I am not saying that this is the best method, as the flue won't be insulated and also you have had local pro on site giving his opinion.
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Old 11-18-2011, 08:10 PM   #5
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Wood Stove Old Masonry Chimney


Take a look at www.hearth.com

There is a TON of info there and lots of knowledgeable people.

$100 per foot seem steep. Check out this video, seems like it`d be pretty easy to do yourself http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRauuzjI-H4

Local hardware store shows a 6`` diameter, 25`liner for $369

http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/in...Chimney+Liners
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:57 PM   #6
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Wood Stove Old Masonry Chimney


By a wood stove, I presume it's a slow combustion heater/stove that has a firebox and glass door to completely enclose the fire. The heater outputs combustion gases through a 6'' diameter flue , with we call a chinaman's hat on top outside the roof. This hat allows exhaust gases to escape but stop rain getting in.

The point about these types of heaters is that produce a massive amount of heat, and I've had one I forgot accidentally on high actually turn the flue a bright red, all the way from the heater to the ceiling as it was an exposed flue. Luckily it had a secondary flue to prevent burns and between ceiling and roof a triple flue. The reason I mention this is that the chances of you or someone else turning the heater up high are not remote, so you have to allow for this possibility. The only metal I know that lasts and can withstand this heat is stainless steel, and you can tell it gets hot because it blues beautifully like the exhaust pipe on a Harley bike. Don't try anything else like galvanized pipe, because the galvanizing will peel off or burn off, giving off toxic gases and soon rust. Wait until you can afford a continuous (Comes in segments) stainless steel flue and protective outer sleev/s before installation.

The next question to ponder is, does your chimney have brick corbelling inside, and correct throat. For an open fire, this is critical to draw correctly and is somewhat easier to adapt to suit a flue. A flue must not be angled less than 45deg. and a maximum of two bends are allowed in its length. Aside from either the heater setting combustible material alight that's too close (children's night attire) or the flue starting combustion in your roof (which is not a problem within a chimney), correct air ciculation is critical. Fires produce carbon monoxide as much as other gases, and at a level these heaters pump out heat, its like running your lawn mower inside if the flue doesn't work correctly.

The question of cost doesn't come into it. You either do it properly or not at all. Like a gas heater, you woudn't dream of running one without a flue or the wrong flue, nor would you have one that doesn't shut off the gas if the flame blows out When gas was first introduced and used for domestic lighting, people went around with a lighted match to find a leak, making the mythbusters look like amatuers after the house and occupants were blown apart. If they didn't light a match, they simply passed on in their sleep.

Moral of all this is: safety concerns are paramount, and you must be alert at all times as you would if you were using a chainsaw or other dangerous tools. Please be sensible and do the right thing. Cheers from Oz.

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