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Old 04-30-2007, 05:33 PM   #1
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wood fence post


I'm replacing a 6x8x80 wooden fence in my backyard and I'm trying to figure out the best way to anchor the post. The current post are set in dirt only and have leaned a little bit, but considering the age of the fence the soil held up pretty good. I want something more stable this time round like concrete, but since I'll probably stay in this house till my last days, I also want something that won't be a bear to remove 10 or 12 years from now. Another diyer suggested removing more dirt from the bottom of the holes than the top (like a bell shape) and fill the bottom 4" with pea gravel. Then put the post in, pour in more pea gravel (tamping along the way) until 1/4 of the total depth of the hole is left. Cap the remaining 9" off with concrete. The post will have better stability than dirt and will be easier to remove when the fence needs to be replaced. Also, I read that in some instances a 100% concrete anchor can sometimes rot the post faster than if set in dirt or gravel. Make sense?? thanks

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Old 04-30-2007, 07:39 PM   #2
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Set your posts using fast setting cement. Just pour the dry mix in the hole as you add water. Let it set and bingo. If you have to replace the fence at a later date, there is no need to dig the old posts up, just off set the new ones.

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Old 06-27-2009, 12:39 PM   #3
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MAKING THE NECESSARY HOLES IN THE SOIL FOR THE PILES IS NOT AN EASY TASK REMEMBERING TO DEEP ENOUGH TO PASS FROST LINES 3' - 4' SHOULD BE DEEP ENOUGH IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR SOME ONE TO DIGG IT EMAIL ahotwatertank4750@shaw.ca I HAVE MY OWN TOOLS AND WOULD GLADLY ASSIST YOU!
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Old 06-27-2009, 12:52 PM   #4
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This should be interesting!

Things are really bad when a guy from Edmunton is willing to travel to south New Jersey to dig ten post holes. And he is willing to make the arrangements via email. Let's see how this develops.
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Old 06-27-2009, 05:05 PM   #5
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BUD, I REALIZE NOW THAT I WAS SPEAKING TO ANOTHER COUNTRY. LET ME KNOW IF I CAN BE OF ASSISTANCE FROM HERE IN CANADA?
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Old 06-27-2009, 05:22 PM   #6
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Well, it was a nice gesture, anyway.
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Old 06-27-2009, 05:39 PM   #7
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Old 06-27-2009, 09:33 PM   #8
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Around here it rains, water runs down the post being absorbed into it (capillary action). It collects at the bottom (gravity)of the post. So the post is sitting in water until it evaporates or drains out. Concrete around and under the pt. post will rot it unusable in 12 years. While 25 years later the post with metal stirrups will not rot. These are for small structures, same principal:

http://www.sustland.umn.edu/implemen..._footings.html Be safe, G
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Old 06-27-2009, 11:22 PM   #9
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Use good quality metal posts instead of wood. Use fast setting post concrete poured and mixed directly in the hole. Strong and will last a long time. You'll probably replace the fence boards a couple times over the years on the same posts.
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:12 AM   #10
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i live in south jersey as well... i just replaced my fence and put up 6' vinyl... just dug about 36" set 4x4's poured dry concrete a little at a time while adding water and was done with it. no pea gravel or anything... i wanted my fence to be straight and stay straight.. i just secured 2 small 1x's to both sides of post and tampered them into the ground to keep it level while the cement cured... as far as removing in 10 years... we did this to a 30 year old fence with about 2'+ deep 10" diameter concrete set post.. i was volunteered to take on this task... i dug and dug and dug, and this bear would not move... finally i worked smarter... tied a chain to my truck frame.... wraped it around the post and barley gave it a little gas, came right out... slowly as well didnt just pop out. (make sure no gas lines are in the general vacinity... ) Again work smarter.....
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Old 06-28-2009, 08:38 AM   #11
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Dig a bell shaped hole and put 4" to 6" of pea gravel in the bottom of the hole. Treat the end grains with copper napathrene and set in the hole. Brace your posts and pour 60# to 80# of concrete for field posts and 120# to 160# pounds for corner and gate posts. The pea gravel will allow for drainage preventing the "capillary action". Make sure the "bell" is below the frost line in your area. This is pretty much text book as far as installation methods go. You can substitute cedar posts for treated posts and may get better results. If you use treated posts make sure you use double galvanized or 304 stainless steel fasteners. The high amounts of copper in the new treated lumber is highly corrosive. Concrete does not rot posts, I have never heard that one before. As long as you have a good base course you shouldn't have any problems. This method is very similar to how you would set deck posts minus the rebar, and to date I have not had to pull out any 10 to 12 year old deck posts due to rot (except the ones that where droped right in the ground no gravel or concrete).
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Old 05-17-2011, 02:32 PM   #12
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I know this post is old now, but i feel it still needs a clear answer for those people still looking for it.

Setting aluminum, Pressure Treated Pine and Galvanized Steel posts in concrete will NOT eat away at the posts in any way. Untreated woods like Cypress are good for pickets on a fence but not for posts (or any ground contact).

I work for a in Orlando FL and we have always mixed approximately 30% cement (we use Portland) with approx. 70% rock dust. We then pre-mix this in a wheel barrow with water until it goes like a freshly made slushy. Lastly we pour it into a 3-4ft hole with the post already waiting.

The hole size will depend on the type of fence being installed. Just know the deeper the hole the sturdier the fence.

Pour enough cement mix to almost fill the hole. You want to leave about 2-3 inches for the grass to be able to grow back properly. Kick in some of the dirt and your done.

Hope this Helps.


Last edited by Gary in WA; 05-18-2011 at 10:05 PM. Reason: Ad link removed per forum rules.
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