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Old 12-19-2011, 06:54 PM   #16
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Wood-burning stove...connecting stovepipe to ceiling support box


pyper, yep, the adapter is like you said ...with the exception that I haven't had the connection it makes with the chimney rechecked by someone else yet. Waiting for the chimney sweep now to make sure it actually makes a connection.I took the trim ring off to eyeball the area.The wood is dry this year plus I have 2 wood racks in the house, each holding approx 38 pieces. I refill when 1 is empty. So the wood is indoors for at least 52 hrs before it's used. It was last winter that the wood was wet & it was extremely wet & sunless outside. It just got more & more damp as the winter dragged on. I brought them in (& they still didn't dry well) until all that was left was moldy & I wouldn't bring that in. Nobody has wood for sale around here from Jan to June or so... not even wet wood. What's weird is that the chimney should have been a royal mess when I had it cleaned this summer (after all that wet wood / low burn) but the royal mess was a week ago after burning dry wood for 2 1/2 months!

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Old 12-19-2011, 09:14 PM   #17
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Wood-burning stove...connecting stovepipe to ceiling support box


Maybe your chimney sweep can verify that the stove pipe connects to the adapter.

Regarding your wood, I've found that the $10 moisture meter I got from harborfreight.com is really useful. I split a piece of wood, and it tells me what the moisture content is. Under 20% is considered good. I've found between 11% and 25%.

An infrafed thermometer is a good thing to have too. You can use it to see how hot your stove is, how hot the stovepipe is, and how warm the room is. I got mine at lowes for about $25.
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:32 PM   #18
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Wood-burning stove...connecting stovepipe to ceiling support box


Hopefully he can. Hasn't returned my call yet. Typical around here. It could take months. The up side - if I don't get to burn what I have I won't have to stack wood in the summer.
I do have a thermometer on the stove. I'll have to pass on the other purchases. If I had money to burn I'd scrap all the work it takes to burn wood & use electric heat.
When I talked to Kuma today it turns out I'm burning wrong. I should be getting it up to 7 or 8 hundred & then closing the vent. I've been getting it to 5 or 6 hundred & then keeping the vent slightly opened. The stove was always between 350 & 450. I'd have to open all the windows with that thing at 7 hundred ! He said it should take about 30 min to get it up that high.That will cause major temp fluctuations in here. Gee, I hate using a wood burning stove even more now. Makes me nervous to have it get so hot too- a toasted ceiling.
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:17 AM   #19
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Wood-burning stove...connecting stovepipe to ceiling support box


Burning wood is an art. But after awhile, you will get so you know what kind of burn/heat you will get depending on the species of wood, quality of wood, size of wood, and how to lay the fire. The amount of air introduced into the firebox and the opening of the draft control make a difference. There are so many variables.

Got one of these yet? Moves a gentle breeze. Works very well. Ours even goes to hunting camp and sits on the wood stove. Last year in Elk Camp, the temp outside dropped to -5F. We were warm in the wall tent with teh little fan.


http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/searc...ducts&x=29&y=7
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Old 12-20-2011, 02:28 AM   #20
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Wood-burning stove...connecting stovepipe to ceiling support box


:-) I thought I perfected the art. Also been patting myself on the back after last winter - a wet winter, with wet wood, with an inversion more often than not.
Not so sure I'd be happy with that fan & I simply can't afford it. I can't work due to extreme intolerance to everyday chemicals (perfume, cleaning products etc) &, after bills, I have about $200 a month left for everything else. Dial-up for the computer, no cable, no TV... nothing that isn't a necessity.
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:47 AM   #21
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Wood-burning stove...connecting stovepipe to ceiling support box


My stove has never been over 500.

They're all different, but 800 sounds too high. Look up the instruction book online -- just google the manufacturer.

You generally want to close the vent in stages. With my stove, when it gets up to 300 or so (maybe 15 minutes -- basically a good fire) I close the vent 1/3 to 1/2. Then a bit more when I start to see secondary combustion.

In most cases if I close the vent all the way the fire won't burn well. If you have a weak draft, or sub-optimal wood, then you might need to leave yours open too.

You might want to check out hearth.com It's a forum primarily for wood stove people.
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:25 PM   #22
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Wood-burning stove...connecting stovepipe to ceiling support box


I was getting it to about 500, closing down in stages & keeping it about 350-375 (last year), 375-450 (this yr). It was Kuma, the manufacturer, that said 700-800 at start-up & then shut down all the way! I've never gotten it to burn the wood all the way w/ the vent completely closed...it would go out eventually leaving charred unused wood. Kuma said it's because I need to do what they said.
Still doesn't explain why I had no problems last year.
I'm communicating at hearth.com too.
Speaking of drafts, is my chimney too short?
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Old 12-25-2011, 07:54 PM   #23
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Wood-burning stove...connecting stovepipe to ceiling support box


Mystery solved. The probable reason for my chimney clogging in 2 1/2 months of burning dry wood hotter that last years wet wood was that the handyman did not do a thorough job cleaning my chimney this summer before burn season. The handyman that cleaned my stove in the summer is the same guy who cleaned it again after the smoke was coming into the house a week ago. Two days ago I got a chimney sweep in to inspect the connections. A cleaning was another $20 so I had him do it. There was a clog a few feet down from the top of the chimney that had an opening about the size of a baseball for smoke to escape. So the handyman was not thorough a week ago & might not have been in the summer either. Regarding Kuma's suggestion to get it up to 700 or 800 & shut it completely - the chimney sweep was appalled by such bad advice & said that when his stove goes into the red he SCRAMBLES to get it down - for fear of fire. BTW he said it's installed correctly & the adapter fits fine. Thanks to all for your input. :-)
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Old 12-26-2011, 01:49 AM   #24
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Wood-burning stove...connecting stovepipe to ceiling support box


I am pleased you got the problem fixed. And now you have chinmey cleaner that you can trust.

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