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Old 09-09-2012, 12:19 AM   #16
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Wondering How Feasible Bathroom Laundry Would Be?


Quote:
Originally Posted by allthumbsdiy View Post
Is your basement finished? If not, you can look up and determine how the joists are installed when compared to rooms above.

If you are concerned about weight loading, take 2 measurements from the basement and someone here will be able to give you a rough guidance:

1. measure the width (it should be something like 2x8, 2x10, 2x12, etc.)

2. pick a joist below the bathroom (you should be able to see a p-trap) and measure the distance from the exterior wall to the center beam

Based on your drawing, I am going to guess this framing layout:




Since this is a tight space, you also need to take into consideration how the washing machine and dryer doors will effect your working space/flow.

Do you have a set budget in mind? Are you comfortable with running new electric wires and doing plumbing? If you can competently do these tasks, you can save a bundle.
Yes, I'm comfortable with electrical once I'm past the box and it's 120v. I've run wire, calculated load, mounted junction boxes, installed ceiling fans... standard DIY stuff. This would be an advanced project for me, but since this already has a dedicated circuit, and I just have to move it, it seems do-able.

I'm not quite as familiar with plumbing, but I have soldered some copper pipe that burst and didn't have a problem. My PVC experience is limited to replacing the trap under the sink, and fixing a valve on a pool. But I'm not shy about tearing into it.

I think you're right about the way the joists are running, because of the subfloor nailheads. I can peek up under the drop ceiling tomorrow to be sure.

And this is a tri-level, so it's very possible it had the same floorplan as the bi-level of your past.

I'm not sure that my main beam is where yours is. If I had to guess, I think the main beam is across that hall, only because that wall runs the entire length of the house.


Last edited by angelatc; 09-09-2012 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 09-09-2012, 12:50 AM   #17
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Wondering How Feasible Bathroom Laundry Would Be?


Not sure how common PEX plumbing is in your area, real easy to work with. It is a sort of plastic pipe that you crimp connections on to.
Makes it easy to snake in when doing renovations.

Removing a few suspended ceiling tiles will sure tell you which way floot joists go. Also make it easier if you have to reinforce some. Possibly doubling them up. Really need someone who knows to look at this on site.
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Old 09-09-2012, 12:52 AM   #18
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Wondering How Feasible Bathroom Laundry Would Be?


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Not sure how common PEX plumbing is in your area, real easy to work with. It is a sort of plastic pipe that you crimp connections on to.
Makes it easy to snake in when doing renovations.

Removing a few suspended ceiling tiles will sure tell you which way floot joists go. Also make it easier if you have to reinforce some. Possibly doubling them up. Really need someone who knows to look at this on site.
Maybe, but I'd rather do this myself if I can. I am more interested in learning than hiring.
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Old 09-09-2012, 12:57 AM   #19
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Not necessarily to hire but to ask questions. Some will help you, give you pointers, etc.
Of course this advice/time is worth something but it can save you way more than it costs.
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Old 09-09-2012, 01:05 AM   #20
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Do you have to have a door way into the bedroom? Why not have just the one door into the hall. You can then move the tube over in front of the toilet and gain some more space.

Additionally, by putting the tub near the wall, you put your biggest load closer to your strongest point.
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Old 09-09-2012, 11:56 AM   #21
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Do you have to have a door way into the bedroom? Why not have just the one door into the hall. You can then move the tube over in front of the toilet and gain some more space.

Additionally, by putting the tub near the wall, you put your biggest load closer to your strongest point.
The door to the bedroom is probably a goner regardless I don't like 2 door bathrooms, and I want the extra wall space in the bedroom.

Ohhh - I do like the idea of moving the tub. When you suggest moving the tub over near the wall, do you mean the outside wall, or the hallway wall? Right now it's near neither.

I said earlier I didn't think that was the main beam, but now I think it is, because there is a support pole under it in the family room.

OK - I have to put this project on the back burner until I get the rest of the house tweaked. The bathroom is the only room that needs an extensive rehab, and while I'm excited about these changes, I am not ready to tear into it yet, especially since I've replaced a tub once before.

But now I have some things I can mull around.

Last edited by angelatc; 09-09-2012 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 09-09-2012, 12:08 PM   #22
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Move the tub in front of the toilet....next to the outside wall....where the bedroom door 'would' have been.

I would put the washer and dryer near the door....maybe change the way the door opens....maybe even consider a pocket door?
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:32 PM   #23
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To allthumbsdiy...
There is no way to tell the second floor layout from looking at the first floor from in the basement... Load bearing walls are in different places and joists don't necessarily run in the same direction as below. How you are assuming that the bathroom is on an outside wall is beyond me... if it were, there would likely be a window there. Also, there is absolutely no reason to assume there is such a heavy beam under the bathroom entry wall, which may or may not be a load bearing wall (an is not likely). I understand that you are venturing a guess here, and you may be completely right... (I didn't mean to be rude...) :-)

Anyhow, my washer and dryer is a stackable unit, sitting over a couple 2x8 joists spanning about 12'. I didn't like it very much, so when I renovated my basement, I was able to plan for a wall beneath these joists to reduce the span. Your dryer likely doesn't weigh too much, but the washer (full of water, and sloshing around) weighs a ton. It would not be a bad idea to at least pop a hole in the ceiling below (if this is an option), to take a look for yourself. If you're unsure, then hire an inspector to professionally make this decision.

Last edited by FramerJeff; 09-09-2012 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:51 PM   #24
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Actually the weight of the washer and dryer is not that large especially when you look at the area that it's covering. Water weight while significant is not actually that much probably no more than 70 pounds of water (about 8 gallons). Stackable washers are front loading so they use much less water than top loading machines. The washer and dryer even filled will weigh less than the bathtub filled with water and a person!
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:54 PM   #25
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To allthumbsdiy...
There is no way to tell the second floor layout from looking at the first floor from in the basement... Load bearing walls are in different places and joists don't necessarily run in the same direction as below. How you are assuming that the bathroom is on an outside wall is beyond me... if it were, there would likely be a window there. Also, there is absolutely no reason to assume there is such a heavy beam under the bathroom entry wall, which may or may not be a load bearing wall (an is not likely). I understand that you are venturing a guess here, and you may be completely right... (I didn't mean to be rude...) :-)

.....

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It was a simple guess based on the location of the indicated hallway that was similar to my former bi-level (I failed to read that OP said the bathroom was on the second floor).
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:13 PM   #26
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Wondering How Feasible Bathroom Laundry Would Be?


Quote:
Originally Posted by allthumbsdiy View Post
Is your basement finished? If not, you can look up and determine how the joists are installed when compared to rooms above.

If you are concerned about weight loading, take 2 measurements from the basement and someone here will be able to give you a rough guidance:

1. measure the width (it should be something like 2x8, 2x10, 2x12, etc.)

2. pick a joist below the bathroom (you should be able to see a p-trap) and measure the distance from the exterior wall to the center beam

Based on your drawing, I am going to guess this framing layout:




Since this is a tight space, you also need to take into consideration how the washing machine and dryer doors will effect your working space/flow.

Do you have a set budget in mind? Are you comfortable with running new electric wires and doing plumbing? If you can competently do these tasks, you can save a bundle.

On a second look, another place you could place the stackable is where the closet is... And move the closet into the corner in front of the toilet.
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:41 PM   #27
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That would depend on the size of the existing closet and the size of the chosen machines.
But a great location if it should work.
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:46 PM   #28
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How about putting the washer and dryer in a closet that opens into the hallway next to the bathroom door (may have to relocate it a little bit to the right). That way you wouldn't have to go into the bathroom to do your laundry.
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:59 PM   #29
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How about putting the washer and dryer in a closet that opens into the hallway next to the bathroom door (may have to relocate it a little bit to the right). That way you wouldn't have to go into the bathroom to do your laundry.

Sky is the limit!
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:23 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by ddawg16 View Post
Move the tub in front of the toilet....next to the outside wall....where the bedroom door 'would' have been.

I would put the washer and dryer near the door....maybe change the way the door opens....maybe even consider a pocket door?
Pocket door would be nice! I am actually thinking that if I move the tub down near the toilet, I could turn that closet behind the tub into recessed space off the hallway to put the washer and dryer in. I really don't need two closets in that bath, and it's a PITA to open the door to that one anyway.

Edited to add - hahaha! I should have read msradall's post first! Great minds

Anyway, I really am going to put this on a back burner. We only have another 20 days to get the rooms painted and such so we can actually move in, but when I'm ready to tackle this, I'll revive it and start getting real details.


Last edited by angelatc; 09-10-2012 at 10:28 AM.
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