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Old 12-12-2009, 07:47 AM   #1
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Winter house construction


Morning everyone, I went out to a guys house yesterday that is under construction,(cement poured for basement floor 6 days ago) he has had a heater going since the floor was poored. It is a walkout basement so the entire front side is sheeted in O.S.B. The walls are entirely soaked with condensation from the cold temps and snow up here in Alberta. My question I guess is after the concrete is done its thing can a guy just turn the heaters off and let the walls dry naturally or should he keep the heaters going on the inside until the walls are dry. How bad will the mold be once the temps warm up in between the wall studs and the O.S.B. because of this moisture.
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:10 AM   #2
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Winter house construction


just wandering if it was something I said in a previous post that noone will reply to any of my questions on the construction side of this chat site.
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:52 AM   #3
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Winter house construction


ya, you really should dry it out before any insulation goes in.
once the furnace is turned on, just run a fan.

IMO i wouldnt worry about mold, i would be more worried about the frost coming out of the ground and destroying your concrete floor or pushing up any footing you may have


we had a footing push up 2" and totally messed up the home
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:03 AM   #4
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Winter house construction


If you have a gas fired heater, it will add moisture into the air since water is a byproduct of burning gas.


Dick
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Old 12-12-2009, 06:53 PM   #5
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Winter house construction


What type of heater do you suggest. All heaters are run by some kind of Gas. Do diesel heaters put off more moisture than a propane one.
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Old 12-12-2009, 08:31 PM   #6
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Winter house construction


Just get your furnace in and run it for temporary heat. If you have a boiler ot hot water system, that will make things slower and difficult. It will burn the inside air or at least dry it out and the gases/moisture will go out the vent. If the floor was poured 6 days ago, it is not problem to temporarily set the furnace and operate it. Also, much cheaper than buying tanks of fuel. I assume the house is framed so the basement plumbing could be installed and you have temporary power.

I was involved in a problem with a 4000 sf house that was built with improperly stored lumber and drywall. After pouring the 2" lightweight concrete floor topping and running gas heaters in the winter that added moisture, the last legal claim I saw for rebuilding, mold remediation and damages was over $800,000.

Anything you burn for heat and is unvented adds moisture to the air in addition to the potential health problems. Building in the winter is not a big problem, but does take an experienced contractor and planning. Yesterday, after a blizzard (only 8" snow and 40 mph winds and -20F wind chill) they opened up an excavation for a basement. Today, they were pouring the footings and building the walls (a long 10 hour day). Since it will be about 25F, they may eas up on the masonry and finish it tomorrow. On Monday, the framers will cap the foundation and run the floor joists to make the basement available for plumbing and interior drain tile installation. - Then the furnace for heat for the framers, siders, carperters and finishers will be put in and they will work no matter what the weather is (within reason), but it will only get colder.
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:59 PM   #7
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If he can't do what CM says, he should look into an "indirect fired heater". It uses an exchanger to heat the air so you have no condensation from combustion going in.
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:39 PM   #8
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Vented heaters: http://www.prairie.com/readymix/cont...oldweather.asp
Times for curing: http://www.deeconcrete.com/concrete/coldweather.asp ------- http://www.springhillks.com/DocumentView.aspx?DID=180 -------- http://www.concretenetwork.com/cold-...te/curing.html -------- http://www.stanleytools.com/default....=left_pros.htm --------- http://www.na.graceconstruction.com/...ds/TB_0106.pdf
I'm still gleaning points from those for my research. That's why I listed them all.

I would check the OSB with a moisture meter. Maybe the water is just on the surface and not absorbed yet: http://www.rci-online.org/interface/...ton-murphy.pdf
Be safe, Gary
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