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-   -   Windy hill and how keep my siding on (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/windy-hill-how-keep-my-siding-99858/)

ToolMonger 03-28-2011 03:15 PM

Windy hill and how keep my siding on
 
I live on a hill. My house was built 20 years ago; it has vinyl siding over Celotex sheathing. The problem is that in a good wind the siding blows off or is sucked off. This problem starts at the top of the gable and will work its way down the wall. I have had this repaired before however it never lasts.
I am thinking of having the Celotex on the gable removed and replaced with OSD or ZIP or plywood. I am hopping the new sheathing will provide a better grip for the siding nails. Then I plan replacing the siding with something that is a little narrower and lapping the seams so they donít tend to catch the wind.
However, before I do all this work I would like to know if anyone else has tried this as a solution? Additionally, does anyone have any other ideas on how to keep the siding on the house?




Tool Monger

Ron6519 03-28-2011 03:27 PM

They should have nailed the siding into the studs. It would probably have made the celotex issue moot.
Ron

rossfingal 03-28-2011 03:31 PM

Are your gables "trusses"?
rossfingal

rossfingal 03-28-2011 03:47 PM

Also, when your siding blew off - what was the length and the type of
the siding nails that they used to install the siding (galvanized roofing,
screw shank, aluminum etc.).
RF

Tom Struble 03-28-2011 11:00 PM

when you do replace the siding use a panel with a higher wind rating,these have more robust locking systems than the cheaper builders panel that sounds like is on your house,you don't necessarily need to replace the sheathing but you do need to have studs to nail too,if your home has trusses sometimes these are not installed correctly

rossfingal 03-29-2011 09:10 AM

Also, when you go to reinstall the siding - try to make sure the interval
between the laps in the siding are about 3 feet apart (staggered).

rossfingal
(Have seen MANY siding installations where the laps we're staggered
12 inches - 16 inches - or even less!)

ToolMonger 03-29-2011 12:15 PM

Thank you all for your assistance.
I will look into thicker panels with a higher wind rating. The current ones are about as thick as a match book cover. The nails used appear to be ringed 6d aluminum. The roof is comprised of trusses and it is the gable end that is losing the siding. How determine if the truss was installed properly? If it wasn’t installed properly—what is the fix?

Tool Monger

rossfingal 03-29-2011 12:37 PM

ToolMonger

6d nails are probably too short.
The nails should hit a MINIMUM, 3/4" into the framing.
You're going through 1/2 inch sheathing and you do not want to hang the
siding "dead" tight.
Also, the heads on the nails should be wide.
We use 2" aluminum siding nails or 2" galvanized roofing.

rossfingal

Tizzer 03-29-2011 02:28 PM

Someone explain why a truss has anything to do with this?:confused1:
Looks like the wrong fasteners were used and they weren't hitting wood. Are the panels 'clicked' into place properly?

rossfingal 03-29-2011 05:05 PM

In truss construction ("M", "W" style) on a gable, there are not studs 16" -
24" on center - it means much less nailing for the siding.
That's why when we're dealing with trusses we specify - plywood, not
"Celotex"/foam on the gables.
All that needs to be done is install more 2x's, against the sheathing on
the inside of the gable trusses.

rossfingal

kwikfishron 03-29-2011 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rossfingal (Post 619418)
In truss construction ("M", "W" style) on a gable, there are not studs 16" -
24" on center - it means much less nailing for the siding.
That's why when we're dealing with trusses we specify - plywood, not
"Celotex"/foam on the gables.
All that needs to be done is install more 2x's, against the sheathing on
the inside of the gable trusses.

rossfingal

Pretty rare not to see a gable truss on a gable end.

rossfingal 03-29-2011 05:30 PM

I know, I know!
I find that quite often, it's good to be redundantly, specific.
rossfingal
(less confusion)

kwikfishron 03-29-2011 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rossfingal (Post 619436)
I know, I know!
I find that quite often, it's good to be redundantly, specific.
rossfingal
(less confusion)

Accuracy over redundancy is safer in this forum.:yes:

Tom Struble 03-30-2011 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rossfingal (Post 619418)
In truss construction ("M", "W" style) on a gable, there are not studs 16" -
24" on center - it means much less nailing for the siding.
That's why when we're dealing with trusses we specify - plywood, not
"Celotex"/foam on the gables.
All that needs to be done is install more 2x's, against the sheathing on
the inside of the gable trusses.

rossfingal

i have seen that also,mostly on pre fab manufactured houses

Gary in WA 03-30-2011 10:36 PM

Toolmonger, post a picture of the gable end from inside the house attic please.........about 15' away.


http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-a...to-post-12559/

Thanks,

Gary


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