Windows Leaking Nightmare

deeonline

Thank you guys for all your advice. You did help me understand how this should properly work. I wish I've done this research earlier prior to wasting $$ on sealing around the windows.

@Michael Thomas: Thank you for the Water Management PDF link. It has all needed information in one place and it's easy to digest too. What a great resource. As far as the PM goes, I am not sure why you can't send those to me. I haven't disabled anything. Maybe this feature is disabled by default? I've dug around the User CP interface and haven't found anything where I could activate it. I've emailed the site support for guidance. Feel free to email me at dmitri [dot] moore [at] gmail dot com any time, though.

@tomstruble: I see 4-5 layers of felt paper at the top portion of the wall with stucco bonded to the first layer, but then I see no paper at all near the green metal plate with pieces of stucco protruding through the wall as shown in the last close-up picture in my post #5. I can't imagine something like this being passed by an inspector. They do inspect this stuff, don't they?

@all: One small question is still puzzling me. When the felt paper is applied to sheathing (or directly to studs, like in my case), numerous staple holes are made. Doesn't this compromise the WBR? How can I ensure that water streaking down the paper doesn't enter the building via those holes? I doubt sealing each staple hole is a feasible option for anyone.

Tom Struble

to a certain extent yes it does compromise its effectiveness,that's why ''waterproofing'' is a multi layered process

Michael Thomas

Exactly, which is why BSC article reference above recommends paperbacked stucco lath (with the paper providing a "bond break") over one of the "channelized" engineered stuccowraps, just as you suggest. The amazing thing is that here in Chicago I often still see ordinary housewraps installed directly under the lath at new construction.

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Home Inspections, Infrared (Thermal Imaging) Leak Identification and Inspection Services, Roof, Attic, Building, Basement and Foundation Moisture Intrusion and Water Leak Inspections, Troubled Building Consultations - Serving Chicago and Suburbs
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Tom Struble

me too Mike

chrisBC

if you really want to make sure the problem is fixed, cut back stucco, take window out, wrap and caulk opening, peel and stick sill, install window, peel and stick around flanges (except for bottom) install flashing with end dams. Through wall flashing (at each level) would be good too if you ever get to taking that much stucco off. make sure weep holes are working properly.

Tom Struble

wow what a great idea

chrisBC

thanks tom!

Gary in WA

Good site- that BSC, huh, Michael....... lol

Op, here is a window, commercial flashed; http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=...X1IjstvXQPNoxA

And if you DIY; http://books.google.com/books?id=mFT...age&q=&f=false

pp.158--- ; http://books.google.com/books?id=0dz...age&q=&f=false

Gary

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troubleseeker

Same observation here. Unfortunatley, many builders have the belief that housewrap is a miracle product, and that all construction evils will be solved just because you apply this product, no matter how poorly the application. As is too frequently the case in this business, fast and cheap does not always equal correct.

deeonline

I see the building paper torn or missing in other places too, not just under the windows. I believe even I had all windows removed, properly flashed, and reinstalled, I would still have leaks inside the house due to the fact that missing paper will simply fail to guide the water out through the weep screed. Removing the stucco from the entire house and fixing all building paper/flashings sound like a very expensive work too and I don't even know who I could trust with it here in LA. Unfortunately, I think the only feasible way to minimize water intrusion here is to paint the house with a couple of coats of elastomeric paint thus creating a water barrier at the paint level. Not the right solution, but it would probably yield better results than what I have now. If you guys know anyone in LA area who could suggest/estimate the proper solution, I'd be more than glad to consider that route too.

Tom Struble

as long as the stucco has a proper gap water will tend to run vertically not get ''drawn in'' horizontally

you may get some minor staining around the fastener holding the paper

again on stucco a 2 ply wrb system is recomended

deeonline

Hi. I am trying to come up with an appropriate vinyl window flashing detail for my Los Angeles stucco house. We don't get much rain, but as they say "when it rains it pours". Average 260+ sunny days per year.

With this in mind, do I really need to install head flashing with drip cap above each of the windows as the one depicted here: http://suresill.com/temp/newweb/sure...headflash.html, or am I OK as long as the window is properly flashed/taped with the top flange under the WRB?

Thanks in advance.

deeonline

A brief update on this. Nothing we've tried as a temporary band-aid worked. So, we are now exercising our last option--removing stucco and redoing water barrier/flashings. Pretty much pulling windows out and stripping everything down to the studs. D the builder.

Tom Struble

you should consider having the sill flashing draining directly to the outside much the same as the head flashing

Tom Struble

double post