Forums | Home Repair | Home Improvement | Painting | Interior Decorating | Remodeling | Landscaping


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-07-2011, 10:34 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 133
Share |
Default

Window installation questions


I will be installing some windows in new construction and was wondering about the following.

When installing a flanged, new construction window in a rough opening that has 1/4" clearance on all sides, should you center the window top and bottom or should you let it rest on the bottom sill ?

Should you use nails or pan head screws in the flange mounting holes ?

I noticed that the mounting holes in the flange are somewhat slotted; should the nails or screws be tight against the flange or should there be a slight clearance for the window to move if the framing settles somewhat ?

The windows have a built in J-channel for siding, but after installation and before the siding, should you apply something like a strip of peel & stick roofing membrane around the perimeter, overlapping the flange to the sheathing ?

Thanks,
Arky
Arky217 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2011, 12:17 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 55
Default

Window installation questions


Quote:
When installing a flanged, new construction window in a rough opening that has 1/4" clearance on all sides, should you center the window top and bottom or should you let it rest on the bottom sill ?
I would rest the window on the sill, and just shim one side enough to make the window sill level. Leave as much of that 1/4" gap at the top as you can. There's plenty of room to insulate the under the sill, but if you raise the window and your top gap is, say, 1/8" then it might be hard to insulate the top.

Quote:
Should you use nails or pan head screws in the flange mounting holes ?
I'd use roofing nails to fasten the flange as opposed to screws. The wide nail head will hold better and they're flat. With screws you would need to sink them into the flange a bit to make them flush, and it's easy to drive them all the way through. You might use a few screws for the corners when you're shimming and adjusting so you can easily back them out, but use nails for the rest.

Quote:
I noticed that the mounting holes in the flange are somewhat slotted; should the nails or screws be tight against the flange or should there be a slight clearance for the window to move if the framing settles somewhat ?
You should drive the nails tight. You don't want the flange to move. I have no idea why the holes are slotted and I had the same question, so when I installed my windows I called Andersen to confirm this.

-Mark
cumak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2011, 06:10 AM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 3,114
Default

Window installation questions


And yes to self stick flashing membrane. Start at the bottom, then the sides overlapping the bottom, then the top overlapping the sides. The top metal flashing should go on first, down over the top of the window frame and up under any housewrap, then the sticky.
Just Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2011, 06:31 AM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 55
Default

Window installation questions


Quote:
Originally Posted by Just Bill View Post
And yes to self stick flashing membrane. Start at the bottom, then the sides overlapping the bottom, then the top overlapping the sides. The top metal flashing should go on first, down over the top of the window frame and up under any housewrap, then the sticky.
I agree with your comment, except the part about the bottom. You shouldn't caulk under the bottom flange, or apply flashing membrane over it. If any moisture should find it's way behind the window, you need to leave a way for it to drain out. If you caulk or flash the bottom flange it will get trapped there (or find somewhere else inside the wall to go).
cumak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2011, 07:19 AM   #5
Member
 
Tom Struble's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 2,769
Default

Window installation questions


always best to lift the bottom of the window off the sill,but 1/4''clearance is pretty tight
Tom Struble is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2011, 07:30 AM   #6
Experienced
 
Jackofall1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Southern Michigan
Posts: 2,822
Default

Window installation questions


Always best to follow manufacturers instructions to the letter, otherwise you will void the warranty. Go to the web site for the windows you bought and research the install method you will be using.

Mark
__________________
When its all said and done there is usually more said than done
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Jackofall1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Gutter installation questions Homerepairguy Roofing/Siding 7 03-15-2012 10:22 AM
Vinyl window installation questions Hexar Remodeling 9 01-06-2011 07:54 PM
Window installation advice Cossack Remodeling 7 04-16-2010 01:44 AM
help need to know how to replace windows wrapped in drywall caide3 Carpentry 4 03-02-2010 12:41 PM
Window installation cost only. Changeling Building & Construction 18 06-30-2008 02:01 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.