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Arky217 03-07-2011 10:34 PM

Window installation questions
 
I will be installing some windows in new construction and was wondering about the following.

When installing a flanged, new construction window in a rough opening that has 1/4" clearance on all sides, should you center the window top and bottom or should you let it rest on the bottom sill ?

Should you use nails or pan head screws in the flange mounting holes ?

I noticed that the mounting holes in the flange are somewhat slotted; should the nails or screws be tight against the flange or should there be a slight clearance for the window to move if the framing settles somewhat ?

The windows have a built in J-channel for siding, but after installation and before the siding, should you apply something like a strip of peel & stick roofing membrane around the perimeter, overlapping the flange to the sheathing ?

Thanks,
Arky

cumak 03-10-2011 12:17 AM

Quote:

When installing a flanged, new construction window in a rough opening that has 1/4" clearance on all sides, should you center the window top and bottom or should you let it rest on the bottom sill ?
I would rest the window on the sill, and just shim one side enough to make the window sill level. Leave as much of that 1/4" gap at the top as you can. There's plenty of room to insulate the under the sill, but if you raise the window and your top gap is, say, 1/8" then it might be hard to insulate the top.

Quote:

Should you use nails or pan head screws in the flange mounting holes ?
I'd use roofing nails to fasten the flange as opposed to screws. The wide nail head will hold better and they're flat. With screws you would need to sink them into the flange a bit to make them flush, and it's easy to drive them all the way through. You might use a few screws for the corners when you're shimming and adjusting so you can easily back them out, but use nails for the rest.

Quote:

I noticed that the mounting holes in the flange are somewhat slotted; should the nails or screws be tight against the flange or should there be a slight clearance for the window to move if the framing settles somewhat ?
You should drive the nails tight. You don't want the flange to move. I have no idea why the holes are slotted and I had the same question, so when I installed my windows I called Andersen to confirm this.

-Mark

Just Bill 03-10-2011 06:10 AM

And yes to self stick flashing membrane. Start at the bottom, then the sides overlapping the bottom, then the top overlapping the sides. The top metal flashing should go on first, down over the top of the window frame and up under any housewrap, then the sticky.

cumak 03-10-2011 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Just Bill (Post 606482)
And yes to self stick flashing membrane. Start at the bottom, then the sides overlapping the bottom, then the top overlapping the sides. The top metal flashing should go on first, down over the top of the window frame and up under any housewrap, then the sticky.

I agree with your comment, except the part about the bottom. You shouldn't caulk under the bottom flange, or apply flashing membrane over it. If any moisture should find it's way behind the window, you need to leave a way for it to drain out. If you caulk or flash the bottom flange it will get trapped there (or find somewhere else inside the wall to go).

Tom Struble 03-10-2011 07:19 AM

always best to lift the bottom of the window off the sill,but 1/4''clearance is pretty tight

Jackofall1 03-10-2011 07:30 AM

Always best to follow manufacturers instructions to the letter, otherwise you will void the warranty. Go to the web site for the windows you bought and research the install method you will be using.

Mark


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