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Old 06-08-2007, 09:44 PM   #1
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Can anyone tell me which is stronger - a microlam beam or an engineered wood beam?

Also what is the difference between the two?

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Old 06-08-2007, 11:13 PM   #2
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Why would you care which is stronger. If you use either one you must meet code. Does it do you any better to be able to say " I used X and it is stronger". I guess I just do not get this question. However I would love to know why it is important to you. Their is probably a great reason that I just can't see.

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Old 06-09-2007, 12:05 AM   #3
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Because I am having construction work on my home and the GC originally was going to use microlam and now is going to use engineered wood because he claims it is 'stronger'. The span to be covered by the header is 12 feet and the original header used by the previous owner was 2 2X10 beams. They couldn't support the weight and buckled which caused my upstairs floors to sag. Now the header and jack and king studs need to be replaced. I don't the same problem to happen again in a few years.
I don't care about being able to say this or that, I just want to do what is best for my home, my biggest investment. This is about resale value not bragging rights.
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Old 06-09-2007, 12:21 AM   #4
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A microlam IS engineered wood. So is Glulam and LVL. So is plywood for that matter. Header size is dictated by the width of the opening and the load it carries. Any opening under 6 feet wouldn't need the extra strength of an engineered piece of wood. Sounds like contractor speak. Assigning importance where there isn't any
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Old 06-09-2007, 01:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron6519 View Post
A microlam IS engineered wood. So is Glulam and LVL. So is plywood for that matter. Header size is dictated by the width of the opening and the load it carries. Any opening under 6 feet wouldn't need the extra strength of an engineered piece of wood. Sounds like contractor speak. Assigning importance where there isn't any
Ron
That sounds about right. So what are you saying, you do not trust your contractor. If not, then check the specs yourself. It should be fairly simple to find out what your contractor is using then verify for yourself if it will work. Or better yet talk to your building inspector and talk to him about your concerns. I do not understand why you would hire a guy if you did not trust them to do the job.
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Old 06-09-2007, 07:33 AM   #6
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Splitting hairs over a very little difference in cost...so 2X10's are replaced by a LVL since there is a problem? Sounds like the contractor is solving the problem...if you are in doubt, post more info and pictures, or get a second opinion from your building inspector.
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Old 06-09-2007, 09:00 AM   #7
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William,

Isn't there a set of Architectural plans that speck what the header should be?

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