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firsttimeremode 09-28-2012 11:55 PM

What type of nails/screws should be used with furring strips?
What type of nails/screws should be used with furring strips?

Not being used inside a wall, just being used to correct a minor support issue inside a kitchen cabinet, and i dont want them to split.

sublime2 09-28-2012 11:56 PM

1 5/8" sheetrock screws.screw them in slow.

user1007 09-29-2012 03:10 AM

I kept an old table candle, in a baggy, in my tool box, handy for such things. Roll the screw threads in the wax and the friction and tension going in will be greatly reduced. Do go slow. When in doubt. Pre-drill if you must.

notmrjohn 09-29-2012 09:13 PM

1 Attachment(s)
As far as type of screw and splitting the strip, a pan head is better than a flat head or counter sunk type like a drywall screw which will try to wedge wood apart as it sets, especially near ends. That can happen even if you drill pilot holes. And you should drill pilot holes thru furring, as close to outside diameter of threads as you can. Pilot hole for nails, at least at ends is good idea too.

The length of screw depends on what you mean by "minor support" supporting a shelf or supporting a cabinet that is just barely sagging. Longer screw will be needed to support cabinet. 3" pan head screws into studs if supporting cabinet. Pilot holes in stud diameter of screw shank will help a lot with long screw. There are specific cabinet screws with extra wide heads and self cutting threads but any pan head screw would work. I would not use nails to support cabinet.

For shelf support, 3/4" + thickness of cabinet back and wall covering + at lest 3/4" into stud. nails should be same length or longer, ring shank box nails ( smaller iameter than common) would be my choice. Start nails in furring outside of cabinet, easier than trying to hold it all together inside. Pilot hole close to but bit smaller nail diameter, two end holes can be larger.

If you are supporting end of shelf with thick sided cabinet, thickness of furring strip+ less than thickness of side. If thin sided cabinet and there is adjacent cabinet, screw from cabinet side into strip, screw length sams as furring thickness. If both cabinets have sides there will be gap between them, drill hole large enuff for screw head thru side of other cabinet to get to side of cabinet that needs support.

Parrafin bar or sd's candle or bar of soap is good idea, just drag screw across. Wax on nails help too. My Dad used to run screw thru his hair, but that was in days of Brylcream, "A little dab'll do ya." Us young guys didn't put oil in our hair, but always seemed to find some along side our nose.

Instead of driving screw slowly, if there is piloy hole or I am thru strip, i give screw a quick burst while really leaning into it, then go slower. If going gets tuff or driver trys to strip head or cam out, I back it out a bit, give another quick burst and repeat untill screw is seated. Be careful doing that or you will strip out head of screw and wind up with one part way in that you can't drive in or screw out.Sometimes I've used one screw to more less drill pilot hole then replace with new screw part way thru job. Square drive or combo square-Phillips head less likely to strip out. Philips was actually developed to cam out, back in days of early power drivers.

Not much room to use your door knob removal tool to remove half way in stripped screw inside cabinet. Add pair of vice grips to your tool box if you haven't already done so.

firsttimeremode 09-29-2012 11:09 PM

thanks. it is being used to support the very bottom of the cabinet. water has soaked into the wood on the bottom and while the floor underneath and the main cabinet are fine, the support for the cabinet floor needs replaced, and furring strips work perfectly. And theyre base cabinets, so its not like if the strips fail anything will go very far. thanks for all of the answers.

tony.g 09-30-2012 03:59 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Try these (but drill pilot holes first!)

notmrjohn 09-30-2012 11:06 AM

tony, I said ring shank.
I use ones like yours for hanging pictures, one nail holds pictures in two different rooms.

sublime2 09-30-2012 11:27 AM


Originally Posted by notmrjohn
tony, I said ring shank.
I use ones like yours for hanging pictures, one nail holds pictures in two different rooms.


tony.g 09-30-2012 04:11 PM


Originally Posted by notmrjohn (Post 1020490)
I said ring shank.

Well, it's got a few grooves near the head if that's any help.:)

Rewound98 10-01-2012 09:58 AM

I'd use staples.

notmrjohn 10-01-2012 12:31 PM

"I'd use staples." From outside thru thin cab side maybe. Other wise you'd need a 1 1/2 " staple, most folks don't have gun that will drive that. But nail gun, small gauge nail, does have less tendency to split.

Did any one mention that a bit of glue would have been nice? Too late now. And for bottom shelf support one or two 1x's under neath. If we'd only known. I make all my toe kicks 3 1/2" to bottom of bottom, just so I can put in easy support.

tony, sure grooves are nice, keep picture from sliding off, but there is head on that end. What keeps pic on other side from sliding off. " Oh man. Picasso's on the floor again. And look, the picture of mable and the kids fell off the wall. I bet that drunken fool, Pablo, knocked it off when he passed out."

firsttimeremode 10-01-2012 12:36 PM

no its not too late, i had intended to do that this weekend before the hellacious rain storms came and poured down rain all weekend long. So maybe tonight, i dont know. I still need to go get whatever i need to attach the furring strips. By glue, do you mean construction adhesive?

notmrjohn 10-01-2012 03:13 PM

" construction adhesive?" that would work, but wood workers glue would be better. In this situation even Elmer's white glue, but it si not water resistant. But TiteBond II will probably come in handier in long run as you work on trailer. Elmer's also was a wood workers glue. They are yellow not white. Just run a line along back of furring strip then a few nails/screws to hold it in place till glue drys. If the bottom of that shelf is 1 1/2, 2 1/2, 3 1/2" from floor you can put a support under it in middle without having to rip something down. Or a piece of 1/2 ply with 1X2 on it makes 3" If you need to add 1/8" maybe you have something like a piece of ...oh...say, shelf liner laying around.

I don't fasten bottoms into cabinets I build for my home, or clients who agree with me. You can lift bottom out and sprinkel lots of boric acid and/or diatamaceos earth under there to combat ants and roaches. I also but false bottoms in my drawers. ..... I don't wanta have ants in my pants.

How'd you like that rain? Did the shelves leak?

firsttimeremode 10-01-2012 03:18 PM

no leaks at all except where the roof still hasnt been fixed. The only person who is willing to do that job is my dad, and he is out of town until next week, so for now im just glad the leaking water is landing in the sink.

firsttimeremode 10-01-2012 03:24 PM

the cabinet is a 62" sink base and a 30" two-door base, and oddly enough both cabinets need extra support. I plan to pull out the previous "floor" and insert the furring strips, then putting new wood on top with some water seal and contact paper. We live in the country, but somehow we have never had problems with ants, mice, or roaches. The mice i understand because we have about a dozen cats that sleep on our porch, but the ants and roaches dont seem to want to stay at our houses.Even trailer houses dont get roaches.

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