what to get for bridging 2x6 24" oc?

Tonglebeak

Wanting to stiffen up my ceiling/2nd floor, but I can't find any steel bridging for 2x6 joists that are 2' OC. I went to

http://www.strongtie.com/products/CFS/TB-LTB.asp

And they don't have anything listed for it. Is wood the only option? Bear in mind I don't want to rip up the 2nd floor to nail the bridging down, and I want drywall to go back up on these joists.

jlhaslip

cut blocks of 2 x 6.

Tonglebeak

I'd prefer the x bracing so it'd be easier to run wires and such. Are there no x braces made for a 2x6 24"oc?

canyonbc

I would call your local lumber yard or where ever you buy your stuff from and ask them, I know you looked at Simpson but and I very easily maybe wrong here but I would have sworn in there Wood Framed Catalog in the Roof and Truss section that they had metal bracing for a 2 x 6 spaced 24'' o.c. like I said I maybe wrong and thus why i recommended calling your local dealer

I have not seen any other product out there outside of block of 2 x 6

jlhaslip

might need to cut your own from 2x material.
How do you plan on nailing it? that's why I suggested blocking.
cut notches for the wires.

or strap the bottoms helps, too.

Joe Carola

That's because they don't make them the framers do. Cut 2x6 blocks and be done with it and drill a hole if you need to run a wire. How will you nail the bottom of bridging if you do decide to make it yourself without removing the ceiling?

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Joe Carola

Tonglebeak

Oh well, I suppose if solid wood blocking would be best, then so be it. What's the best way to attach it? Just glue? I read that staggered blocking is not the best way, the that blocks need to be in a line from joist to joist, but I don't understand how they get attached to the joists unless they're toenailed.

I'm a noob, sorry

And I never said I won't be tearing down the ceiling. I just don't want to tear the floor that's above the ceiling

jlhaslip

snap a line on the underside of the joists.
place the first block on one side of the line and nail the next block to the opposite side of the joist.
this is called staggered blocking.
that allows full end nailing to both blocks. where your space is limited, toe nail from the block side.
glue would be good, well, it would not hurt anything.

Willie T

http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...TB.asp#tables2

But only 2x6 with such a wide spacing may be impossible to find. Perhaps you could measure the length you'll need, and substitute something on the page in the link. You should be able to get by with something 25 to 26 inches long. But 27" might be too long.

If you cannot find the ready-made metal braces, here it is in wood. (BTW, no need to stagger those solid blocks so far apart as they show here.)
(HINT) For solid bridging..... Determine where you will need holes, (how many braces drilled) and drill them BEFORE you cut the brace piece off the length of lumber. MUCH, MUCH easier and faster than working off a ladder later.

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"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Willie T

Gary in WA

Keep solid blocks in-line for strength, Number 6: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/PDF/Free/021184090.pdf

Cross bridging is stronger: http://books.google.com/books?id=DWs...olumns&f=false

Use the right "stuff": http://books.google.com/books?id=8tN...idging&f=false

Be safe, Gary

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Joe Carola

That's not true at all. You can stagger or keep them in line. Either way you can facenail or toenail.

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Joe Carola

Willie T

I think some of the book writers get a little carried away at times.

C'mon, how much can you bend a 2x12 in an inch and a half?

And what about the cross bracing they are showing? The opposite ends of each piece on the other side of the joist are staggered by at least 2 full inches. That's a lot more offset than staggered blocks.

Never have heard of a problem with staggered solid bridging in almost 50 years in the industry. Sure, it looks prettier to butt straight on, but for the extra hassle of installation, not worth it.

__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Willie T

tpolk

diagonal bridging if not secured before subfloor sheathing will eventually squeak imo

Tonglebeak

Ok guys, thanks. If staggered is just as good as in-line, then great!! I'll get some Liquid Nails and glue/nail in place. I watched the joists deflect when I had another person jump on the ceiling. It's not a lot of deflection, but enough to cause the ceilng to crack, so I'm definitely going to bridge. I also need to relevel the first floor sometime and put a support under a floor joist that has no midspan support (the wall that's bearing the 2nd floor happens to be on top of the unsupported floor joist as well).

Is it alright to bridge the 2nd floor before I deal with the sagging first floor?

Wildie

I would suggest that you would screw the solid blocking in place using 3" deck screws rather than nailing!