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-   -   What is a 'concrete sill' for a sliding patio door? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/what-concrete-sill-sliding-patio-door-66804/)

mikedavid00 03-15-2010 12:19 AM

What is a 'concrete sill' for a sliding patio door?
 
This is for a finished cutout for a sliding patio door. Some are saying, you need it, others are saying that you dont.

What is the concrete sill AND DO WE REALLY NEED ONE?

I can't find a picture or tutorial or anything online about this and asked at Home Depot and the lady helping we said she doesn't have a concrete sill. When I see pics of sliding patio doors on the ineternet, I dont see any concrete sills... so forgive me for asking.

We have a 2 story brick home from 1984. We have cold winters here.

Please help.

Thanks!

Brickie 03-15-2010 02:16 AM

A limestone sill works very well. The limestone sill is what the door is sitting on in the photo linked below:

http://www.weathergardwindows.com/bl...3/IMG_7845.jpg

mikedavid00 03-15-2010 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brickie (Post 414711)
A limestone sill works very well. The limestone sill is what the door is sitting on in the photo linked below:

http://www.weathergardwindows.com/bl...3/IMG_7845.jpg

Perfect! Do you know where I can get one or have any information on this?

I can't seem to find much information at all on concrete/stone sills and I dont think I've seen them at the home stores.

tpolk 03-15-2010 10:04 AM

call a brick supplier

jomama45 03-15-2010 10:23 AM

A concrete sill is something you would form & cast in place, rather than buy already made. You could also use a piece of Limestone as Brickie stated, or lay brick soldiers or "row-locks" under the threshold. Normally in the field, I would match the same design as what your home has under the rest of the doors.

PS, you'll only find a concrete sill needed in a full masonry veneer home like yours.

mikedavid00 03-15-2010 05:08 PM

Ok an update.

The guy that we want to do the work says he uses brick stones placed apart to lay the door on. I'm assuming he puts 2x8 over the stones?

Does that sound suspicious to anyone?

Willie T 03-15-2010 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikedavid00 (Post 415002)
Ok an update.

The guy that we want to do the work says he uses brick stones placed apart to lay the door on. I'm assuming he puts 2x8 over the stones?

Does that sound suspicious to anyone?

I would not do it this way. No wood involved. Wood will eventually rot from the water that may get trapped under the track. And the recessed concrete is necessary to do two things:

One, it will keep the track (and the water that collects in it if it is rained on) below the level of your inside floor.

Two. The recess should be the same depth (or a taste deeper to allow for leveling the track) as the vertical strip of metal that forms the rear of your track (usually around 1/2" to 3/4") This is so you will not have a strip of metal protruding above your finished floor. (That would be a 'tripper', and would make it very difficult to sweep things out the door.)

As Jomama said, I form and pour the sill with hydraulic cement.

kwikfishron 03-15-2010 06:52 PM

I don’t even get the question. A concrete sill is what you have when your setting a door on a slab. It’s either there or not. If not then it's wood. It’s not something you go to Lowes for.

jomama45 03-15-2010 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwikfishron (Post 415035)
I don’t even get the question. A concrete sill is what you have when your setting a door on a slab. It’s either there or not. If not then it's wood. It’s not something you go to Lowes for.

Or in this case, a new door opening in a full masonry veneer wall. From what I'm reading, this door was cut in where there was not a door beore, so some brick was removed in the wall to accomadate a door. If the door is installed in the wood framing (conventionally), something needs to be put in place to cover the tops of the newly exposed brick. IMO, woo is NOT the right answer, it won't hold up near as long as the veneer is intended to. Like I stated before, I'd finish the brick just like the other doors in the balance of the house.

kwikfishron 03-15-2010 09:22 PM

Sounds good to me 45, we don’t have very much brick veneer retrofit in my area out West here.

There are only 2 things I strive for in any remodel such as this.

#1 It functions properly .
And
#1 It looks like it’s always been there.

mikedavid00 03-15-2010 11:11 PM

What is heavy molded concrete sill with heavy patio door supposed to lie on?

So basically the winterized sliding patio doors (so heavy I cannot even lift it with two people), is supposed to lie on top of a concrete sill (I'm guessing it's also very heavy?). So once stacked, what does the sill lay on top to bear the weight?

Floor joists and exterior brick?

That's how it seems to be done on this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bfQpR6wMP4

That's like the only how-to to I can find on this.. and even then they are using 2 pieces of 2x8's it looks like.. not concrete.. I spoke to the Home Depot contractors today and now even he is telling me something different. :(

kwikfishron 03-16-2010 08:17 AM

How about a picture of your hole in the wall.

Willie T 03-16-2010 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikedavid00 (Post 415201)
What is heavy molded concrete sill with heavy patio door supposed to lie on?

So basically the winterized sliding patio doors (so heavy I cannot even lift it with two people), is supposed to lie on top of a concrete sill (I'm guessing it's also very heavy?). So once stacked, what does the sill lay on top to bear the weight?

Floor joists and exterior brick?

That's how it seems to be done on this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bfQpR6wMP4

That's like the only how-to to I can find on this.. and even then they are using 2 pieces of 2x8's it looks like.. not concrete.. I spoke to the Home Depot contractors today and now even he is telling me something different. :(

If it is necessary to construct a sill of wood as you have just described, make certain that you lay a full, sealed covering membrane (like a shower pan), open only on the front (for the water to run off to the outside). And be sure to caulk down inside your screw holes as well as around the tops of the screws.

mikedavid00 03-16-2010 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwikfishron (Post 415281)
How about a picture of your hole in the wall.

It's not a actual hole yet.

I've decided to do the job myself now as all the contractors I'm speaking to basically want $1000 or more for 1 days work to do a sloppy job where water is going to leak through.

I'm just going to do the whole thing myself and ask for help along the way..


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