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Old 09-17-2011, 01:13 PM   #16
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erred in posting NY,,, our company was in NJ ( northern & central - jersey city to easton ),,, bsmt wtrproofing is mostly sold thru fear, smoke, & mirrors,,, typically the ' inspector ' ( commissioned salesman )will open at a high price to include exterior excavation AND an interior french drain,,, realizing $ 60-$ 70K will not fly, he'll then drop to the interior price & try to sell that,,, this is where negotiation begins,,, whatever will be his final price, there's always room to move lower however he may not wish to give up his commission ' overage ',,, typically the company will have a set price ( par ) for the work & he's pd a %age of that,,, ANYTHING above par will be split between the co & salesman,,, no different than siding, roofing, etc.

the usual ' drop ' will then be made because: 1, they are working in the area; Mrs. Jones' son is ill & had to reschedule meaning they have a crew available - to keep the men working, we can do it for ( ? ) less $ IF you act now; or 3, our commercial crew uncovered some hazardous mtl & cannot work til that issue is resolved.

IF you still haven't bought, you'll receive a call in a couple weeks promising another $ drop for ( fill in the blank reason ),,, don't be upset - this is how the ' game ' works,,, in NJ, Mid-Atl was particularly adept however so were we down here, i've noticed competitors use the same selling practices,,, some people won't buy UNLESS they can get a discount of some sort - IF you have the i-net coupon, they'll know it & factor that into the opening price.

look at our w-site for how a good system should typically be installed - good luck & remember, whoever blinks 1st loses ! remember - buyers are liars & sellers are worse ! its also good to realize waterproofing is done when the house is built - anything afterwards is ' leaking water management ' !


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konradsa (09-19-2011)
Old 09-19-2011, 12:45 PM   #17
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I would suggest you begin by properly dealing with the runoff:
1 - Grading the soil around the foundation as to slope away from the house.
2 - Extend the downspouts to discharge a few feet away (ideally 6ft) from the house.
3 - Avoid using sprinklers near the house and keeping plants that need a lot of watering close to the foundation walls.

I would also suggest you install a battery operated backup sump pump, to pickup the tab when there is a power outage.

The fact that your basement didn't flood under Irene, might indicate that there is probably adequate foundation drainage, so dealing with the grading, gutters and downspouts might solve your problem.

If it doesn't, you will need to install better foundation drains, which in your case, would be better done from the inside, due to cost.
To install it on the outside, would involve digging out the foundations and probably disassembling and removing the deck.

It is true that some waterproofing companies use pushy and sometimes sleazy sales tactics, but not all of them are created equal. There are some very reputable companies out there that will deal with you honestly. Get estimates from at least 3 companies in your area. See what they have to say. Ask for references and by all means, check them. Look at their instance with the BBB, look for online reviews.

Don't sign anything you are not 100% comfortable with, and even if you do, the law in every State has a version of the "FTC Cooling Off Rule" which gives you about 3 days (it varies by State, so look it up) to cancel any purchase or contract signed with a sale person provided that it took place in your own home. (Not valid for purchases and contracts signed in their store or business place)
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konradsa (09-19-2011)
Old 09-20-2011, 10:08 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by CyFree View Post
2 - Extend the downspouts to discharge a few feet away (ideally 6ft) from the house.
FYI...this is actually required by the more recent IBC and IRC building codes. The code sections says the downspouts must discharge no closer than 5'-0" from the building foundation when they are discharging on compressible soils.


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