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Old 12-16-2013, 12:24 PM   #16
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West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!


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For sure. Around there, T&G lumber is simply not available at box stores. If your local lumber yards don't have it, they should be able to point you to a local mill that can make it for you. Naturally, anything custom is likely to be pricey, but that's life.
Would it be a mistake to use 2x6 if that's all I can find? Shouldn't make a big difference if I can't find an exact width match, should it?
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Old 12-16-2013, 12:32 PM   #17
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West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!


You could rip a 2x8 down to 7-1/4", but you'd have to use a planer to get the thickness down to whatever that is (can't tell from the second pic) and then some blocking to stiffen it up (since it'll lack the T&G support).

You might want to try a flooring place--see if they have some scrap pieces that are a close-enough fit.

Last edited by cortell; 12-16-2013 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 12-16-2013, 12:48 PM   #18
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West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!


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You could rip a 2x8 down to 7-1/4", but you'd have to use a planer to get the thickness down to whatever that is (can't tell from the second pic) and then some blocking to stiffen it up (since it'll lack the T&G support).

You might want to try a flooring place--see if they have some scrap pieces that are a close-enough fit.
It is 1.5" thick. You know, home depot has 2x6 T&G whitewood decking. Couldn't I just use that and blocking for the unsupported span? There were concerns spruce was too weak...but if I used blocking it'd likely be OK I'd think.
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Old 12-16-2013, 12:53 PM   #19
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West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!


2x6 nominal is 5-1/2" actual. You boards appear to be 2x8 nominal (7-1/4" actual), but I've been deceived by forum pics more than once.
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Old 12-16-2013, 01:01 PM   #20
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2x6 nominal is 5-1/2" actual. You boards appear to be 2x8 nominal (7-1/4" actual), but I've been deceived by forum pics more than once.
Yes, 7-1/4". Would it be ill-advised to use 2x6 T &G to do the patch? Only one side would 't match up and would need go be ripped to fit.
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Old 12-16-2013, 01:21 PM   #21
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West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!


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Yes, 7-1/4". Would it be ill-advised to use 2x6 T &G to do the patch? Only one side would 't match up and would need go be ripped to fit.
Are you saying you'd then make up the difference with a 1-3/4" strip? I wouldn't go that route. Since existing decking is 1.5" thick, just use a 2x8. Glue edges and block as needed.
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:28 PM   #22
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2x6 T&G boards are fine. The thickness/grade/species is determining the span with deflection, not the width. They are both 1-1/2" thick. Block the unsupported span, jump on it all after done--- deflection reasonable? Will you be tiling?

Gary
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Old 12-17-2013, 12:28 AM   #23
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2x6 T&G boards are fine. The thickness/grade/species is determining the span with deflection, not the width. They are both 1-1/2" thick. Block the unsupported span, jump on it all after done--- deflection reasonable? Will you be tiling?

Gary
I will be tiling, yes. That will be contracted out, though. So if this were your home, you'd go ahead and just do the 2X6 T&G over say...just putting in regular 2X8's and gluing them together as Cortell suggested?

Any recommendations for repairing the boards that are under the wall, or should I just replace board up to the wall? I'm concerned about being able to squeeze the T&G between the interior wall and the beam (see pics)

West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!-beam-wall.jpg

West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!-beam-wall-arrow.jpg

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Old 12-17-2013, 06:41 AM   #24
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West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!


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...over say...just putting in regular 2X8's and gluing them together as Cortell suggested?
I thought you were repairing a board here and there and that it would be exposed (sorry; I did not read the entire thread). If you're doing an area and then tiling over it, any width T&G that is the same thickness is preferable.
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Old 12-18-2013, 02:16 PM   #25
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Just be sure you have minimal deflection in the system before tiling. I would add joists diagonally between beams to support the boards and extra ones under the wall as you are single-spanned.

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Old 12-21-2013, 11:24 PM   #26
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West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!


Ugh. So a lot of the dirty work is done now. Here's my next question:

How do I replace this T&G board under this non-load bearing wall? Will I have to tear out the wall between this bath and my master bedroom? Should I just use a toe kick saw and get as close to the sole plate as possible, then lay my new boards?

BTW, for those that had been following, I managed to find some 2X8 nominal T&G a guy had stashed in his wood bin.

West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!-img_20131221_204535_103.jpg

West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!-img_20131221_205105_633.jpg

West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!-img_20131221_205119_684.jpg
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:35 PM   #27
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West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!


Could I just remove it from below and place a new one up there under the interior wall using staircase angles adhered to the beams? This is a non-load bearing wall...seems like I'd just need something to hold the T&G up there.

http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/TA.asp

West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!-beam-fix.jpg

West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!-beam-fix-2.jpg

Last edited by Didymus21; 12-22-2013 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 12-22-2013, 11:06 PM   #28
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Use the angle brackets under another piece that will support that one under the wall and the edge of the next one inboard of the room. No need to remove the existing, especially if using an underlayment or mid-span new joist.

Gary
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Old 12-22-2013, 11:47 PM   #29
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Use the angle brackets under another piece that will support that one under the wall and the edge of the next one inboard of the room. No need to remove the existing, especially if using an underlayment or mid-span new joist.

Gary
Even though there is a 12" portion that is rotted under the interior wall and some of the sole plate is rotted? You're saying it structurally won't matter and won't be worth the effort to remove and replace the T&G board?

I'm asking now because when I put in the tiled shower it will no longer be possible to remove those boards or attempt to replace the rotted portion of the sole plate.
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:17 PM   #30
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West Coast Post and Beam subfloor repair help!


Sure, if it is rotted that much it will effect it structurally. It appears 1" deep and 1' long, adding another board under it as I said, would serve the same purpose except be easier than removing existing board, go either way- you are there probing with an awl/screwdriver.... why angle iron, just add some wood material to each side. Add some joists at an angle to the boards for support/rigidity as I said- to help mid-span between the beams.

Gary
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