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Old 04-07-2009, 11:28 AM   #1
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Waterproofing a studed basement


My basement is currently finished but has a ton of water damage. It’s a tile floor with walls and ceiling being dry walled.

Over the weekend I took everything out of the basement in anticipation to redo it. The bottom of the drywall is badly damaged. I plan on cutting away about 4 foot of the bottom of the drywall and replacing it with a beadboard type paneling. I’ll be installing laminate ‘hard wood’ floors

Now for the water…I don’t get a lot of water. I get a trickle along the one wall (coming from behind the drywall) about once or twice a year in the spring. I know I have a gutter issue right in that area that will be addressed. I plan on painting the walls with ‘dry lock’ when I get the drywall down. Here’s the question..I see a lot of ‘systems’ that will use a track in the bottom of the wall on the floor to divert any water to the sump. I would like to install something like this as a precautionary measure but..I do not want to have to restud the walls. Is there anything I can use that will work with existing studs?

Edit: Forgot to mention that there is a brick fireplace right next to the place that the water leaks. Obviously I won't be able to drylock behind it..thus the reason for a track system

Feel free to shoot any other idea you may have


Last edited by monsterbash; 04-07-2009 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:39 AM   #2
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Waterproofing a studed basement


Ya know.. I just read some other post about basements and me thinks I should tear everything out and start from scratch

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Old 04-07-2009, 12:19 PM   #3
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Waterproofing a studed basement


Ditto! Do a search here we have answered this many times. there is much information already written.
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Old 04-07-2009, 01:17 PM   #4
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Waterproofing a studed basement


you have to lose the drywall &, probably, the bottom plate, too,,, ' not a lot of water ' should be ' NO WATER ' as ANY water inside your very fine home's TOO MUCH ! ! ! as you post'd, ' not a lot of water ' caus'd a ' ton of water damage '

unless you're a genius at getting miradrain behind studs, no - you'll need to cut out damag'd studs, anyway, just to get rid of mold spores,,, sister 'em back when finish'd as the pro's do it,,, those ' glue in place ' bsmt systems extrud'd plastic thingies're useless imn-s-hfo,,, so's drylock, too ! ! ! but you may prefer listening to some apron wearer

not sure i can understand what ' precautionary ' measure you've in mind when the only thing mention'd is trying to resolve the problem of water inside your home,,, trace the front of the fireplace hearth UNLESS you're better'n me at going under it,,, you may get lucky & be able to resolve the problem w/o doing the full perimeter system however if you don't fix it the 1st time by installing an overlength system, you'll be back 'cause the water will, too !
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Old 04-07-2009, 02:02 PM   #5
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Waterproofing a studed basement


I spent the last couple hours reading here and pretty much decided to remove all the dry wall on the walls and do it right. I plan on restudding, drylocking and drywallin the walls. I'm going to attempt to save the drywall on the ceiling as it is ig good shape.

The house already has drain tiles installed (i think thats what they are called. Basically all the downspots go into what looks like PVP pipe and get drained into the city sewer). Last year I figure out that the drain tile was plugged at the street..I got the Roto Rooter guys in and took care of that. Fixing the problem eliminated almost all the water. I now have one spot with a small trickle. Right above that spot I'm having a problem with a gutter. What happens is there are about 3 pine trees that hang over my house. I'm always cleaning the gutters...at least once a month. If I don't the downspout gets plug and the water runs over the gutter.

Now in the spring time thaw (Buffalo NY here) if this happen is when I get the water.

Most of the damage came 3 years ago during our 'October storm' Long story..but the jest of it was I was (along with the whole city) without power for 7 days. It took me about 2 days to get a generater to get the sump running



I'll be getting the drywall out of that area (possibly tonight) to see what the wall looks like. I'm actually hoping for an obvious issue that I can fix..but if I find what seems to be a good non-cracked wall. I would assume the water is simply pushing through the cinder blocks. I would like to install some kind of track that incase that gutter gets plugged (i'm out of town alot for work) I can channel that very small amount of water to 'ssafety'. The most water I've seen there is probably less than 8 ounces.

As I said earlier that problem area is about a foot away from a brick fireplace. Should the water be coming in from behind the fireplace and running down I'm not sure what I could do about this. I'm not sure removing the fireplace is an option
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Old 04-07-2009, 06:41 PM   #6
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Waterproofing a studed basement


well.. I just tore down the one wall with the water problem. On the good side thre are no cracks put I can clearly see where water has come through the seams in the morter. Now for the bad..

Who ever finished this basement did no framing at all. They simply took what looks like decking 4 inches wide and pounded it to the wall the long way..then screwed the dry wall to that. I can't even discribe how much mold is on the bottom 2 or so feet on the other side of the drywall. One board was darn near rotted in half. I snapped a couple pics..i'll get them up somewhere.

A perfect example of how NOT to finish a basement
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Old 04-08-2009, 05:30 AM   #7
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Waterproofing a studed basement


Quote:
Originally Posted by monsterbash View Post
well.. I just tore down the one wall with the water problem. On the good side thre are no cracks put I can clearly see where water has come through the seams in the morter. Now for the bad..

Who ever finished this basement did no framing at all. They simply took what looks like decking 4 inches wide and pounded it to the wall the long way..then screwed the dry wall to that. I can't even discribe how much mold is on the bottom 2 or so feet on the other side of the drywall. One board was darn near rotted in half. I snapped a couple pics..i'll get them up somewhere.

A perfect example of how NOT to finish a basement
Many people ignore or advice here about how to treat a basement wall. and the think their wall is fine. But if they remove it like you did they will see that mold is prevalent like in your case. I've read that some appraisers are not valuing finished basements much since 80% have failed.
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Old 04-08-2009, 06:19 AM   #8
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Waterproofing a studed basement


just pick'd up another wtrproofing job yesterday,,, only about 3' is leaking water at the baseboard,,, we have to remove studs, wallboard, base molding, & ceramic tile to get to the cove ( junction of wall & footer ) then install a 25' sub-floor systems,,, this may seem excessive to some of you but its my belief you don't pay for the same ground twice,,, if you don't do it right the 1st time, when in hell will you ever get time to do it over ? ? ?

if we charge a client for good work, do it ! if WE recommend something & it doesn't work, that'll be a BIG OUCH later on ! ! !

excellent point on the appraisals, bob !

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