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Old 08-21-2011, 09:12 AM   #1
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Waterproofing concrete?


Hello
Is there a product that can waterproof concrete? My building is absorbing water and I'm going to paint it anyway and a friend said they used to sell something that you could use under primer that would make the block water-tight. Ideas? I'm doing it myself so it would have to be something a non-pro contractor could buy and apply with a roller. Thank you

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Old 08-21-2011, 09:20 AM   #2
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Waterproofing concrete?


is this a basement that has water coming from the outside or do you have a condensation problem? water proofing a basement should be started from the outside with correct drainage and vapor barriers before proceeding with any inside work. do not apply paint in either case until the moisture problem is corrected.

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Old 08-21-2011, 12:37 PM   #3
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Waterproofing concrete?


Thank you for your reply!

What's happening - the veneer anchors are rusting, obviously (photos 1 & 3), and the bottom of the inside basement walls are wearing (photo 2) - as you can see. The paint at the bottom of the basement interior walls is gone all the way around for about 8" or so).

I bought the place about 1.5 years ago and, at that time, there were maybe 5 rusting streaks on the exterior. Now there are probably 20+. The prior owner had covered several with something and painted over them, but they are bleeding through again. Unlike his quick fix, I want to actually correct the issue as best I can. Insulation/vinyl is not an option because of the cost.

I thought the water was getting in between the block and the veneer from the roofline somehow. But I've had a gutter guy, a roof guy, and a few carpenters look at the place and they all agreed that the water is indeed getting in between the block and the veneer but it's not getting in at the roofline. They said it's coming in through the veneer - basically just wicking in, getting trapped between the veneer and the block, and then weeping out at the bottom of the basement walls inside, rusting anchors along the way. It's not like standing water or anything in the basement, it's just obvious wear from decades of water evaporating through at the bottom.

So, my first step before priming the exterior is to try and make the whole exterior watertight, especially at any cracks (there are a few very small cracks) and the holes where the anchors are showing.

So, unless someone has another idea (ALL ideas are welcome!) I need a waterproofer roll-on product that can be primed and painted over. Unfortunately, I won't be able to dig out around the foundation to do anything with what's below ground (I have very limited resources), so I need to do the best I can with what I've got.

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:44 PM   #4
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...and I am already scheduled to have the gutters replaced soon. I know the current gutters aren't done properly which isn't helping.
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Old 08-21-2011, 10:38 PM   #5
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Waterproofing concrete?


This is probably more of a paint question, and my experience is certainly limited there, but I am fairly confident that you can use a primer to seal the block & anchors fairly easily. The primer will need to be oil-based though, or it will only promote more corrosion of the steel anchors that are all over the walls for some non-apparent reason. Top coat with a decent paint & you should be good to go for years.

Maybe one of the mods can move this to the paint section where you'll likely get more help?
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Old 08-22-2011, 07:41 AM   #6
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Waterproofing concrete?


Are you sure this is even brick? It looks more like a brick pattern.
The closeup of a rust patch is in the middle of the "brick", not at the mortar joint. Veneer brick ties are inserted into the mortar joint.
Have you tried to remove the offending iron?
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Old 08-22-2011, 07:50 AM   #7
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It's a stamped brick pattern, yes. But there is a seprate layer of block underneath. Everyone seems perplexed about the rusting things lol! Why do you suppose they're there? Could they be rebar or something?

I see your point about the rust close-up not being in the mortar line. Hadn't thought of that. I'm having a mason come out and look at it asap.

Oil based primer - good idea. I hadn't thought about a water-based product potentially making things worse (which is why, of course, I ask you fine people).

My poor little house
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Old 08-22-2011, 08:07 AM   #8
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Waterproofing concrete?


If you have no brick, you have no anchors holding the brick. They might have used a metal lath over the block to hold the stucco material and that might be rusting. If that's the case, this will probably get worse as time goes by.
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Old 08-22-2011, 08:35 AM   #9
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Waterproofing concrete?


It is possible that you have a very strangely constructed "cavity" wall. In a standard cavity wall, the wall is constructed using two layers or material, often concrete block or brick, separated by an air gap. The idea of the air gap is that moisture penetrates through the outer layer, then runs down the wall in the cavity, and comes out the wall through weepholes at the bottom that empty outwards. The goal is not to prevent water getting in, which is difficult, but to channel the water down and away from the inner block layer.

Sometimes builders misunderstand cavity walls, and attach the outer veneer directly to the inner block layer, thereby allowing moisture to wick directly from outside through both layers of block, into the interior of the structure. That may be what is happening in your case.

As to the rusting metal, it surely does look like veneer ties, but as has been pointed out, they are very strangely placed. If they were an intended feature, and not just left over metal from the forming process, they should have been at least galvanized, and at best stainless, rather than the unprotected steel they seem to be. Replacement at this point appears to be a prohibitively expensive option.

As for metal paint, there are zinc phosphide paints specifically designed to inhibit corrosion on steel. I would suggest wire brushing off the rust, and applying the paint directly to the exposed metal prior to painting the entire wall. You can get zinc phosphide paint at an automotive store, and I believe Rustoleum makes a line of them as well. Good luck.
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Old 08-22-2011, 08:52 AM   #10
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Hmmmm...a lath, interesting idea. There is a part of the porch in the back where the veneer is basically falling off. I should delve into that area with a sledge hammer and the mason and see how it's being held on. That should shed a lot of light on everything.
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:01 AM   #11
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Daniel,
your explanation makes perfect sense. I know that the house was not built with a 'weeping' ability (it was built back in the late 1940s and they may not have known about that at the time) because the foundation goes straight up from the basement floor to the roof, all block. As a sidenote, the house is built primarily of Plasticrete (including the lower level ceilings which are thus the upstairs floors). Because it has insulation mixed in with it, the Plasticrete may be a more absorbant material than your average concrete.

I completely agree that water, due to condensation and wicking, is basically running down between the block and weeping out at the bottom of the basement walls when it hits the concrete slab.

Your idea of automotive paint over the anchors sounds very promising. I will look into that. Great ideas, you guys. Very helpful and lots to think about!
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:21 AM   #12
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Waterproofing concrete?


What you may have is a concrete brick on an embossed concrete block what has some iron in the aggregate. I have seen this repaired by drilling out the offending particle, patching it with a compatible material and then covering with a bit of a paint that does not allow moisture. After that, the entire wall face can be repainted whenever you desire.

Plasticrete is not a material, but the name of a concrete products company in CT (offices were north of New Haven). There were known for very advanced and creative products and nationally known for innovation and supplying some huge masonry projects in NYC and New England. They made the first fluted block that was used by Paul Rudolph on some great municipal projects. Plasticrete also developed some great, innovative flooring systems.

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Old 08-22-2011, 12:05 PM   #13
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Dick,
That's possible, too. I'm picking up a sledge hammer tonight and will hopefully be able to knock off the veneer that's falling off of the side of the porch over the weekend and determine once and for all what's under there. I'm excited lol! Will post a picture. The mystery continues
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADaniLion View Post
Dick,
That's possible, too. I'm picking up a sledge hammer tonight and will hopefully be able to knock off the veneer that's falling off of the side of the porch over the weekend and determine once and for all what's under there. I'm excited lol! Will post a picture. The mystery continues
You are kidding about the sledge hammer, aren't you?
What you need is a regular 16 oz hammer and a stone chisel to carefully remove a small piece to see what's going on behind the top coating.
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:29 PM   #15
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LOL! Yes, I meant a hammer - I tried to pick up the sledge at Lowe's and realized I would not be able to control it nearly well enough to prevent damage to the block underneath.

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