Waterproof cement

Marvin Gardens

I want to put an old dead hot tub in the ground and cement over it and make a pond.

Any ideas?

__________________
My idea of a perfect day: No where to go and all day to get there.

concretemasonry

What is the tub made of and does it or will it leak?

That is a noble thought to try to recycle one thing for a different use, but it might be better to sell the old tub and start from scratch (cheaper and faster).

The important thing is what you do to prevent leaks, especially if you have a variable climate or soil moisture/expansion problems.

Dick

Marvin Gardens

Can't sell it. Doesn't work and I ripped the guts out of it.

It could leak after the weight of the cement gets on it.

I could use some mortar and use that to put in some rocks. My wife loves river rock. But it would have to be somewhat waterproof.

__________________
My idea of a perfect day: No where to go and all day to get there.

yesitsconcrete

wish you were closer,,, would save me time/trouble of building my own from icf's & polymer-mod'd cement,,, do you deliver ? ? ?

not sure i understand, marv,,, why not just bury it & backfill w/sand ? ? ? work and I ripped the guts out of it.

seal the outlets/inlets & paint it blue,,, wimmin LOVE blue ponds.

Marvin Gardens

It's already in the ground. I backfilled it with sand. And it is blue. The holes are sealed.

It just doesn't look natural.

I thought about gunite but that is too expensive.

So I figured that I would just make up some concrete and put it on and use some mesh to hold the concrete in till it sets.

I guess it really doesn't matter if it leaks since it is water tight at the fiberglass. But for added protection water tight would be nice. I even considered a pond liner and then the concrete.

This is a new area for me and I have no idea what I am doing.

__________________
My idea of a perfect day: No where to go and all day to get there.

Ron6519

I doubt a concrete product would bond to the fiberglass.
Ron

yesitsconcrete

ok - if you REALLY want to do it, here's how - d/a the tub to remove glaze then staple expanded wire mesh overlapping & staggering the seams 2",,, this is best done w/either air/elec stapler as you'll need to space them 1" to 2" o/c & i'd hate to have you come back on the forum in 3 months after your carpal tunnel operation :-) next trowel on a 2 coats of polymer-modified concrete which you can buy at any pro const supply house,,, i'd suggest elitecrete but you need a license - might also try surecrete, decosup, stardek, forevercrete, or gawda'mightycrete - there're many mtls out there - sika/sonneborn/l&m/dayton,,, while mixing up the concrete, you can color it w/pigment - either powder or liquid.

ordinarily i wouldn't think an avg h/o-diy-er has the ability to do this but your posts suggest you're not he.