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Old 09-22-2008, 07:37 PM   #31
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Water seeped through tiles in shower, wall ruined, need help.


That floor is obviously shot. It needs to be removed, and taken down to the open floor joists. A circular saw set no deeper than 7/8" will aid in removal. Buy, beg, borrow, or steal one. Don't set it any deeper than 7/8" to avoid cutting into floor joists, wires, pipes, etc.

Don't listen to guys that work at Home Depot. They're not known for their rock-solid advice.

You'll replace the floor sheathing with 3/4" plywood, assuming your joists are spaced 16" on center. If they're spaced wider than that let us know. It comes in 4x8' sheets. If you have seams, be sure they land on a joist. Screw it to every joist with 1-1/2" or 2" screws about 8" on center. On top of that, you'll use 1/4" cement backerboard (which weighs nothing in comparison to the tile, the tub, the water in the tub, and the people in the bathroom). Backerboard usually comes in 3x5' sheets. Set the backerboard in thinset laid down with a notched trowel and screw it to the plywood with backerboard screws.

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Old 09-24-2008, 02:54 AM   #32
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Water seeped through tiles in shower, wall ruined, need help.


Quick question before I start on the walls.
*edited*Okay, question was if I had the right thinset, which I did not, they gave me drywall filler. I went back to the store today, went to Rona, and gave me the right stuff. Good thing I double checked!

Should I use the fiberglass drywall tape for my sheetrock too? or should I use regular drywall tape? I bought both, but will return the regular drywall tape if the fiberglass tape is good enough or better.

Last edited by doogie88; 09-24-2008 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 10-02-2008, 06:54 PM   #33
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Water seeped through tiles in shower, wall ruined, need help.


Bump to the question above of using fibreglass tape on the drywall joints.
Also, when I do the cement joints/corners of the cement board do I have to do it really thin to avoid it from pushing the tiles out when I put thinset on for the tiles?
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Old 10-07-2008, 08:48 AM   #34
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Water seeped through tiles in shower, wall ruined, need help.


Your backerboard seams must be "mudded" and taped with thinset and backerboard tape. I'd suggest avoiding pre-mixed thinset in wet locations. Get the dry stuff and mix it yourself. The mesh backerboard tape isn't the same as the mesh drywall tape, although they look the same.

For backerboard to drywall transitions, I personally never worry about them too much. I fill them with thinset and tape them. It can't hurt.

For drywall seams, I really don't recommend the mesh tape very often. It can be harder to hide, especially for a drywall newbie. I'd suggest conventional paper tape. Remember when mudding and taping drywall, it isn't a one-time deal. You'll have to go back at least three times in order to properly fill and feather the joint. There are some good online instructional resources available if you need them.

Hope this answers your question. If not, let me know.
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Old 10-07-2008, 12:19 PM   #35
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Water seeped through tiles in shower, wall ruined, need help.


Shoot, I threw the label out, but I have Fibreglass mesh drywall tape. Is that the wrong stuff? That's what they gave me at HD. If that is the wrong stuff for the cement board seams, what is the correct one called?

So I tape and thinset the seams.
Then reguard the whole cement area.
Then thinset and add tiles, correct?
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Old 10-07-2008, 01:56 PM   #36
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Water seeped through tiles in shower, wall ruined, need help.


I'm told that the mesh backerboard tape is different than the mesh sheetrock tape in its resistance to some chemical or compound in the thinset. I can't speak to the validity of it, but can tell you that backerboard tape is sold as backerboard tape, not sheetrock tape. It is available at the box stores. For $4, I wouldn't risk it.

Yes, you've got the process right. Be sure to let your thinset seams set up for a day before applying the Redguard. It makes a mess, so use drop cloths if you don't want it on the floor. After the Redguard has set up (follow the instructions), you're ready to install the tiles. Once again, don't use pre-mixed thinset for your walls, no matter how tempting it is. Be sure to use dry mix, and gently mix it with hand tools, not a drill mixer. I like the anti-sag thinset for walls, but as long as you're using tile spacers any good quality thinset mix will do.
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Old 10-07-2008, 03:11 PM   #37
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Water seeped through tiles in shower, wall ruined, need help.


Thanks. I have the dry thinset.
One last question. When I put the thinset on the seams, won't it make the surface uneven when I tile?
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Old 10-07-2008, 03:40 PM   #38
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Water seeped through tiles in shower, wall ruined, need help.


Nope. You'll use a putty knife to get it reasonably smooth, but don't worry about it too much. Just make sure there's no globs or high spots. Putty knife smooth is adequate...Just use a 3" or larger knife.

You've got to remember that you're going to be using a notched trowel to apply the thinset to the tiles or walls (or both) and it will be smashed down when you apply the tile. Minor little bumps and variances will be concealed by the thickness of the thinset that sticks the tile up.

Another tip:
Thinset will last for quite a while in the bucket before it sets up, but I'd suggest mixing fairly small amounts at first until you get some experience putting the tiles up and really get rolling.

What size are your tiles? We need to make sure you're using the right size of notched trowel.
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Old 10-07-2008, 04:08 PM   #39
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Water seeped through tiles in shower, wall ruined, need help.


Probably gonna go with 12" tiles.
I don't have a trowel yet, so recommendation is welcomed.
Thank you.
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Old 10-07-2008, 05:13 PM   #40
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Water seeped through tiles in shower, wall ruined, need help.


I'd probably go with a 1/4" wide x 3/8" deep square notched trowel for 12x12 ceramics.

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