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Old 03-17-2011, 08:32 PM   #1
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Water leak in crawlspace + pic


Snow has been melting like crazy and on top of that, it's been raining.

I have a raised cement deck on the other side of this wall (up at ground level, obviously) so this should be fun...

I'm sure I could just patch that up from inside with hydrolic cement, but it's only going to make the problem go somewhere else right? I plan to add studs and finish that wall one day, so I don't really want to do a mickey mouse fix.

So my only option is to break up the cement deck, dig to the weeping tiles, and fix the issue, right? Or is there maybe some other approved solution?

I also don't know much about proper weeping tile setup, but for something as critical as that I would probably get a pro to look at it unless it's super easy. Have not really researched it much, and codes/methods may differ from region to region.
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:01 PM   #2
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Not my area. I do know the concrete slab (cement is a concrete additive) should be pitched to drain away from the house. And the joint between slab/wall should have asphalt material to repel water and expand/contract with slab movement. The blocks should be filled and painted with asphalt elmulsion or ? to water-proof exterior, even add foam board if possible. The drain-tile inside is a DIY, break out perimeter slab18", install gravel and tile, sloping to sump area with a pump there, patch slab. Do a "search" above each page or wait until morning for the pros..... The effervescence shown has been leaking quite a while, 12" up some time ago, 6" up recently. Here are some exterior drain sites from my library, may get you familiar;http://www.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/eng/ibp/ir.../ctus-n36.html

http://www.servicemagic.com/article....age.13702.html

http://www.easydigging.com/Drainage/pipe_tile.html

http://books.google.com/books?id=q37...sult&resnum=10

http://www.waltersforensic.com/artic.../vol1-no11.htm

Gary

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Old 03-18-2011, 09:59 AM   #3
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Why does your crawl space have a concrete floor? Is some of your basement regular hieght?
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Old 03-18-2011, 01:00 PM   #4
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Most of them here do, keeps bugs, humidity etc out better. Overall cleaner. And yeah it's a split level so part of it is a regular basement.
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:55 PM   #5
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Most of them here do, keeps bugs, humidity etc out better. Overall cleaner. And yeah it's a split level so part of it is a regular basement.

Well you can hire someone to spray foam it which will seal it on the inside, but installing a weeping system on the outside with better weather proofing is the cure.
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Old 03-18-2011, 05:12 PM   #6
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I have intention of putting ridgid foam, framing and insulating further eventually. Am I safe to just patch the hole and then use the foam? If yes then I wont worry about digging it outside. I will monitor it throughout the summer and see. Not sure if the snow melting water is comparable to a huge downpour, so I'll see how it looks after one. We just got a blizzard so it will probably stop leaking for now. I'm sure the water I see is just residual.
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:21 AM   #7
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I have intention of putting ridgid foam, framing and insulating further eventually. Am I safe to just patch the hole and then use the foam? If yes then I wont worry about digging it outside. I will monitor it throughout the summer and see. Not sure if the snow melting water is comparable to a huge downpour, so I'll see how it looks after one. We just got a blizzard so it will probably stop leaking for now. I'm sure the water I see is just residual.

The concrete shrank inthe winter allowing for the water to seep in. in normal tempuratures the leak may not happen. I'd start by caulking the joint of the floor/wall and see how that holds up. Cheapest start.
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:21 PM   #8
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Hmm that makes sense. So it's actually water that is under the slab, and not on the other side of the wall, that I'm seeing. there is a small crack between the floor and the wall so that must be it. I will caulk that and see if I get this again. I actually wanted to do the whole basement given I've seen bugs go in/out of those cracks before. Incredible the tight spots a centipede can fit in.
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:02 PM   #9
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good conc practices call for expansion jnt mtl ( asphalt impregnated beaver board ) between structures & appurtenances ( add-on's ),,, eventually it will shrink & crack allowing wtr to infiltrate,,, the proper fix is to install backer rod & caulk over it,,, that will also have to be replaced eventually.

if there's an improperly installed ' toe drain ' [ weeping tile system ], you either have to dig it up & do it right OR hammer out the floor in the space alongside the footer,,, whether or not you'll need a sump & pump depends on elevations & the possibility of gravity drainage to daylight.
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Old 04-11-2011, 08:24 PM   #10
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Got a HUGE rainfall last night, so all that water + melting snow caused this:




I consider myself lucky, I heard of houses that ended up with like 5 feet of water... that really has to suck, I would cry.

So while I'm ahead of the game I need to fix this. Would backer rod and silicone caulk all around the perimeter (not just this area but whole basement) and any cracks do the trick? Would hydrolic cement be better? I'm thinking the caulk is better as it can expand. Is there a better type of caulk to use? Should I use actual asphalt as suggested? Or perhaps asphalt based caulk/product?

As a side note, I don't have a sump pump. If my drain system was to fail it would become much more serious. The location of my sump pit makes it impossible to install a sump pump, or at least very hard. Could I just make another one and link them? I'd also like to try to track down where my main sewer line exits so I can dig it up and install a backflow valve. I could probably just make that hole the sump pit, that way the backflow valve would be accessible if ever it needs maintenance or fails. Also how do I actually drain a sump pump? Like if I just have a pipe going outside and dumping the water in my yard, it's just going to cycle back into the drain system no? If I make it go to the street, wont it eventually still make it's way back?
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Old 04-11-2011, 08:58 PM   #11
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from the look of the lower 2 courses of block, there's been wtr infiltrating the wall for some time ( note the lime salts ? )

backer rod & silicone can't stop wtr under any pressure at all - even gravity,,, 'sides, what good would it do as the wtr's already in the wall !

the typical ' fix ' is either break the floor, drain all cells & webs, lead the wtr to a sump, & pump it outside,,, if it were mine, i'd also be putting in some grouted wall pins ( diagram on our w/s )

the alternative is excavating the walls to the footer & doing some basic waterproofing, not the bldr applied dampproofing per code,,, you don't already have a backflow preventer ? yes, everyone should have 1,,, discharge pump wtr downhill & God will do the rest
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:08 PM   #12
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I'm also weary of those bricks possibly having water in them. I'm wondering if I should drill a small hole, but not sure how bad this will be.

Idealy I'd like to excavate but there is like a 3 inch thick cement slab deck I'd have to break through first. It looks like I may be getting a new job with shiftwork soon, if yes that means I will have more spare time, so I suppose it could be a summer project. I'll have to figure out what's cheaper, renting an excavator or just getting a pro to do it all.

Roughly how much money am I looking at spending if I was to get a pro to excavate say, 10 feet perimeter area and fixing the drainage/waterproofing? 1k, 10k?

Or I can just grab a shovel and do it the long way after renting a jackhammer to get rid of that ugly cement deck I have. Good excuse haha. The basement is not that deep, maybe 5 feet.
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Old 04-12-2011, 04:47 AM   #13
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like that 1 guy's post ' concrete shrank 'cause it got cold ' conc does change dimension due to temp change ( solids/liquids do react to temp - cold makes wtr expand ( ice ) but shrinks solids,,, that slot/space is where the bldr removed a form after floor was placed & finished - his idea being IF there was any wtr, it would eventually find its way to a sump ( wtr runs downhill & seeks its own level )

we drill 1/2" holes in ea cell & web to allow wtr an escape route into the collection pipe placed under the floor alongside the footer,,, 3" is a std floor height,,, consider which is the BETTER solution - breaking the floor OR exterior excavation,,, we use manual labor & his cousins, juan & miguel ( not really sure they are his cousins, tho ),,, mini-ex is about $250d here + $150 operator cost,,, manuel & cousins = $ 400

IF you don't manage the exterior wtr after applying a waterproof coating to the wall & give it some where to go, you'll just move your problem to some other part of the wall ( pipe draining to daylight ),,, our $ is $18 per sq ft - min $ 1,500,,, typical interior cost is $35lf + $1,350 for sump, pump, ck valve, & 1 1/2" discharge pvc pipe,,, you CAN diy however, if not done right, who do you call ? good luck !

watch out for shrinking violets AND concrete
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:47 AM   #14
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One thing I'm also thinking is to add a small inside perimiter drain system. I'm thinking like a 1 inch "ditch" in the concrete all around the basement with a few drain points, could probably just use pex or something and lead it to the sump pit. Now that the basement is not done i can monitor this for a few years to see if it does the job, if not I can do it the right way and fix from outside. Just wondering, what is the best way to go about making this cut in the cement? Some kind of masonry router bit? Or do I need something more serious? The groove would have to be deeper then the lowest point of the floor. I'm thinking this water is not gushing out or anything, it's just dripping over time.

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