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patt 02-24-2007 09:38 AM

walls not insulated
 
Bought a house a year ago and was told it was completely gutted and remodelled. Find out now the house has original insulation in it and that is it. House is over 50 yrs old. Also. new concrete driveway was poured seven years ago and has large crack across the driveway and cannot open entrance door to house. Concrete has heaved. I know this will go down when Spring comes. Also, no ice and rain shield put down under shingles. Have a 5 ft. overhang and when it rains waters leaks from the soffitt vents all the way to the garage doors. (Have an attached garage).
How do I insulate the walls with new vinyl on the outside of house and new sheetrock on the inside? House has been remodelled beautifully inside. That's what sold us on the house. Another thing, when we open cabinet doors in kitchen cold air pours our from them, Windows are thermo pane but the cold comes right thru the glass and same thing with the sun in the summer. What is our recourse? Thanks for any info you can give me.

tvlfleming 02-24-2007 01:00 PM

I would remove outside vinyl, if done cafefully can be put back up.
You can then open exterior and add or reinsulate. I myself would use a wrap, Tyvec? question the spelling, seen it used all over. That alone will stop alot of drafts and make a shell around exterior. Then tack up foam insulation panels to raise the R value and create another barrier. Then reinstall vinyl siding.

redline 02-24-2007 05:29 PM

Did you buy the home thru a real estate agent or from an individual?
You could have then put in blown in insulation. They would remove a band of the siding and drill 1" holes to inject the insulation from the outside. This does not disturb the interior walls.


Have you looked in the attic? Is there insulation in the attic? How thick is it?
Do you have newer wiring or the old knob and tube?

patt 02-24-2007 06:47 PM

We had 16 inches of blown insulation added to the attic. We bought house thru a real estate agent. We are kicking out butts we didn't have a home inspector check things out before we bought. How would he have known there was no insulation in walls? I took switch plates off to look for new insulation and the outlets are fitted very tight into the drywall. Impossible to see.

patt 02-24-2007 07:00 PM

I should also mention the house has new wiring, furnace, etc. When it is really windy out we can feel very cold air coming from ALL the trim around the windows and doors, but the worst breezes come from the trim board on the floor. Took trim board off and looked but drywall goes down to floor. I tried stuffing insulation into a few of the gaps but it didn't seem to help much. What next? We just keep holding our breaths waiting for something really major to happen.

redline 02-25-2007 10:03 AM

When you looked at the house did the real estate agent give you a listing/info sheet that described the house?
Did the listing sheet say that it had insulation in the walls?

I would have an insulation contractor blow in insulation in the walls. It will save money over the long run and make the house more comfortable.

Darylh 02-25-2007 10:18 AM

Here are some ideas I have done in the past.
"Exterior doors and windows"- remove trim and fill gaps with insulation and then carefully use tuck tape so it covers a bit of the window or door jamb and drywall but making sure it does not go past the trim and then reinstall trim.
"Baseboard"- fill in any spaces with insulation and then either caulk the drywall to the floor or use red tuck tape the wall to the floor making sure it does not go past the trim.and reinstall base trim.
"Electrical plugs and switches"- get your self some 1/8" foam and cut the foam 1/4" smaller than your face plates. You will need to poke a hole where the screws go through and you will have to cut a small opening for the switches and for plugs you will have to cut out the outline of the plug but still keep as much of the foam you can so the side of the plug to the side of the opening is coverd, well I sure you get the idea now what your tring to accomplish.

patt 02-27-2007 09:25 PM

walls not insulated
 
Do any of you guys know if a drip edge was put on backwards if that would cause the water to back up and drip thru the soffitts? Someone looked at the roof and mentioned that it looked like the drip edge was put on backwards? Is that possible? There is no dripping thru the soffitts on the other parts of the roof. This is only happening over the 5 ft. overhang. Please, someone give me some ideas on what they think is going on. Thanks much.

steel 02-27-2007 09:26 PM

What Darylh said. You might want to go check out energy star for more help. I think two of the main points were covered above. Besides the windows and poorly insulated attics/walls the bottom of the drywall is where the most heat is lost (so I've heard).

There are precut foam pieces for the outlets. I don't know the cost, but it seems to me that it should be relatively cheap.

I am not sure if a home inspection would have caught the lack of insulation. Some of these guys are really good, so you never know. That being said, home inspections are a must when buying a house. It never fails that someone tries to save a few bucks by not getting one and it costs them in the end. If insulation problems are your only major problem with the house, consider yourself lucky. I would guess that if you blow in some new insulation and seal the windows, drywall, outlets, etc., you should be fine. Good luck.

steel 02-27-2007 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patt (Post 34998)
Do any of you guys know if a drip edge was put on backwards if that would cause the water to back up and drip thru the soffitts? Someone looked at the roof and mentioned that it looked like the drip edge was put on backwards? Is that possible? There is no dripping thru the soffitts on the other parts of the roof. This is only happening over the 5 ft. overhang. Please, someone give me some ideas on what they think is going on. Thanks much.


Backwards - no
upside down - yes

Drip edge is normally shaped like a "T" if you look at the cross section of it. If it is installed backwards, you should be more concerned with what else the roofer did wrong. Upside down would cause water to dam up at the drip edge which is a real problem. If you get up there and look, it should be pretty obvious if it is upside down.

Roof leaks are tough. It could be a matter of a nail or staple being installed a little low and not being properly covered by the shingle above it. If the shingles are properly done, the missing ice guard should not matter.

Is there a valley close to the leak? Roof leaks are not always what they appear. The leak can get in behind the shingles and flow down the roof before it is ever seen. Never concentrate on one spot to find the leak. Always look up and mostly in the valleys (or anywhere flashing is needed).

patt 02-28-2007 09:20 AM

Walls not insulated
 
Steel, If the drip edge was put on upside down is this an easy fix? Could the shingles just be lifted up and the drip edge put back in the correct way? Therre are no left over shingles and I certainly don't want a two tone roof. Thanks for any info.

steel 03-01-2007 08:56 PM

If it was done correctly the shingles should be bonded to the drip edge. It could be removed and replaced, but it is quite the chore. You have to slide up under the shingles and get the nails pulled out without putting any holes through the shingles. Lots of Black Jack would be needed to put everything back together.

In all honesty, I would not guess that the drip edge was actually installed upside down. It was just a mention of something to check for. If you could get a picture, post it and it should be easy to tell if the drip was put in correctly.

patt 03-01-2007 10:20 PM

walls not insulated
 
Right now the roof is covered with 2 ft. of snow and we are in the middle of a snowstorm. :thumbup:

sheeter 03-02-2007 07:41 AM

Patt,

There are many things that you need to check on. First, what would you estimate the slope of the roof. A low slope roof with 2' of snow on it can be the problem. Snow will actually dam up the water as the snow melts. If the shingles are relatively new, they haven't had time to bond yet, which normally takes one hot summer. You can investigate this by lifting up a tab gently, if the tab lifts up, they aren't bonded. Secondly, the drip strip, called an eave strip, should be visible from looking at the edge of the roof. It is a light gage metal and turns down over the fascia about 1" directly below the shingles. The shingles should overhang the eave strip about 1/2". Next, do you have gutters and are the down spouts clear. If you have gutters and the downspouts are stopped up, the water can't be evacuated and will back up under the shingles. Another item to check, is the roof where the overhang is, continuous, or does it change in slope. If the slope changes where the overhang begins, the roof can be leaking up higher and drip off the rafters in the area of the soffit.
At the windows and doors, check to see if flashing was installed around the opening prior to the installation of the windows and doors. The flashing is really a plastic based wrap that is black in color and should be visible inside the opening. You can inspect this by carefully removing the trim from around the window inside. Use a knife to cut the paint and caulk from the edge of the trim where it overlaps the sheetrock, so you don't damage the wall's finish. You'll need to cut the paint on the window side as well, then use a small, flat pry bar to pry the trim off. There will likely be a small gap between the window's casing and the framing. You should be able to look in that gap and see a plastic wrap stapled to the side of the framing. This gap should also be insulated, and packing it tighter will limit air flow. At your local home center, you can get a vinyl siding removal tool. Pop one piece of siding loose to see behind it, looking for house wrap (Tyvek, Ammowrap, etc.). Let us know what all you find, i'll give you all the advice I can.

redline 03-08-2007 10:41 AM

Easy way to detect problem areas.



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