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Old 11-21-2007, 03:37 PM   #1
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Walls on Concrete


I know when building a wall on top of concrete you're supposed to use Pressure Treated for your base plate of the wall. I'm wondering if I could get away from using Pressure Treated if I lay 6 mil poly vapour barrier. This would seperate the concrete from the base plate therefore no risk of rot...right??

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Old 11-21-2007, 03:43 PM   #2
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could still have moisture issues, it does not cost that much so don't skimp

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Old 11-21-2007, 04:39 PM   #3
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could still have moisture issues, it does not cost that much so don't skimp
I'm not building in a basement..could there still be moisture issues? Cost isn't a concern, just curious. Thanks for the reply!!
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Old 11-21-2007, 04:44 PM   #4
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Walls on Concrete


The actual requirement (and common sense) applies to concrete that is directly in contact with the soil. - Usually, but not limited to slabs on grade, footings and foundations.

If you are on the 4th floor of a concrete building, it(PT) is not required.

Concrete attracts moisture from the soil, so that is why the wood can rot. Wood is really only temporary construction material in most of the developed world.

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Old 11-21-2007, 04:44 PM   #5
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It's really up to your local building code. You have to follow code. If your code doesn't require it then it's not necessary. Ask your inspector.
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Old 11-21-2007, 04:57 PM   #6
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It's really up to your local building code. You have to follow code. If your code doesn't require it then it's not necessary. Ask your inspector.
Trouble is I literally live "in the bush" in a unorganized township. We don't really have codes or permits here. The closest inspector to ask questions is about 3 hours from here. Thank God for this site for great advice and suggestions. Thanks everyone!!
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Old 11-21-2007, 06:02 PM   #7
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Walls on Concrete


I guess that is why some people appreciate building inspectors. They are paid to steer you out of trouble when you have a permit.

They can tell you the least you have to do (minimum standard for the code) and if you are lucky, they can also tell you the best way to do it because they do not want to come back again if not necessary.

I built in an "unorganized" area without a code, so the only help I got was from the state electrical inspector and had to wing everything else amd learn the hard, expensive way.
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Old 11-21-2007, 06:11 PM   #8
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WINGING IT is something Ultralight should be good at
Trike driver? Ultra?
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Old 11-21-2007, 07:17 PM   #9
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WINGING IT is something Ultralight should be good at
Trike driver? Ultra?
I flew a Challenger II Ultralight on amphibious floats but sold it so I could afford Home Renovations, lol...you??
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Old 11-21-2007, 08:29 PM   #10
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Use a sill seal under the PT and play it safe. There is a reason we do this, and it isn't to help out the PT lumber sellers.

I wouldn't fly an ultralite if my life depended on it! I want to see a real engine, with a real propeller, attached to a real fuselage, with real wings, with real ailerons and flaps, with doors and a windshield....

Actually, at Oshkosh '99, I very nearly flew an ultralite helo, and looked a gyro over pretty well......and then I came to my senses and flew my 182 back home.
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Old 11-21-2007, 08:36 PM   #11
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Sill seal is nice to use, concrete is never 100% perfectly flat and helps seal any voids for air infiltration. it's the best few cents a l/f you can spend.
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:26 PM   #12
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Fly; I never flew ultra lites, nothing personal but I prefer "REAL" planes LOL LOL
Joasis AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH A fellow Cessna driver :}:}:}:}
182 nice bird,luv the rg.

For both; I ran into the Italian Disease: Muhfundsalow Maximus.
Has to stop flyin :{:{:{:{:{
SEL,Comm,Inst Was really stupid did NOT get my multi when it was cheaper and easier. Approx 3000 hrs including about 200 multi. Cesssna Skysmasher ( C337) and Beech Barons, B55 and B58
And Yes I really miss it
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:29 PM   #13
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I probably rubbed it in earlier, but I owned a Baron A model once...and I have 10 hours in an honest to God DC3!

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