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dclay79 11-24-2012 12:49 PM

Wall Sheathing
 
I try to leave this forum for when I absolutely can't find an answer. I'm sure its out there on the net somewhere - just can't find it.

I'm about ready to start building a 10x20 gable shed. Where the wall sheathing meets the top plates - how should this be installed? I'll be birdsmouth cutting the 2x6 rafters, double top plates. Should the wall sheathing only cover the first top plate? Should I leave 1/4 or so of the lower top plate as the rafter continues down? (6/12 pitch). If it matters, the walls are going to be 105 1/2" (96" of 2x6, sill plate, two top plates). It has also been recommended to use PT plywood on the bottom 12" of the shed (slab is raised 6" above grade, but I'm in a snow area).

Any help/advice on this would be appreciated.

woodworkbykirk 11-24-2012 05:05 PM

its a very minor detail

you can keep the sheathing down so it doesnt interfere with the rafter. just make sure its still high enough that the soffit will cover


you can extend the birds mouth so the plumb cut is back the thickness of the sheathing or you can make the plumb cut go up then convert the 2x6 rafter down to a 2x4 for the remainder of it so the tails dont have to be cut in a manner that they hang down below the fascia

joecaption 11-24-2012 05:18 PM

What are you going to be using for siding?
I can not think of any reason if the walls going to be covered with siding to use pressure treated plywood.
If fact that's going to complicate a simple job. If you did go with pressure treated your going to have to use ACQ approved fastners to attach the siding and the sheathing.

dclay79 11-24-2012 06:05 PM

We'll chalk this one up for me trying to overcomplicate things. It should be a non-issue with the soffit....good call on that woodwork.

@JoeCaption - Planning on using vinyl siding. I was recommended to use 12" of PT plywood on the bottom of the walls because of the contact with rain bouncing off the ground or snow build up. It may make sense to just wrap some flashing around the bottom and up the inside of the sheathing. Is there a more common solution I'm overlooking?

joecaption 11-24-2012 06:39 PM

That's exactly what I have done.
A simple 6-1/2" piece of coil stock bent with a 1/2" lip on the bottom will work fine.
Just make sure to use house wrap under the siding.

dclay79 11-24-2012 07:22 PM

Joe - would you do it differently if the wall overhangs by 1-2" in some places?

Also, I don't have a brake (and don't want to rent one for such a small job) - how do you typically make the bend?

dclay79 11-24-2012 07:33 PM

I'm thinking now I'll just take the 10" roll that Home depot sells and bend is over the corner. I'll have 3" or so over the edge of the sheathing and bottom plate to protect both the wall and the sill plate (already pressure treated, but this might give me another few years out of the wood).

joecaption 11-24-2012 07:41 PM

If you use coil stock you use a break, no break then cheat and use prefomed aluminum fashia.

woodworkbykirk 11-24-2012 11:01 PM

or skip the aluminum and use peel and stick membrane. vycor or blueskin

dclay79 11-24-2012 11:54 PM

I'll avoid the aluminum as from what I understand it doesn't do well against concrete (not sure about pressure treated wood). How tough is it to bend the galvanized steel? can't imagine it being easy...

I was also considering that membrane - 6" width and adheres well from what I understand.


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