Is this wall load bearing - pictures attached

jen5219

I've had two people come out and bid to open the wall up more. I don't want to remove the header I just want to open the walkthrough all the way to the end of the "window". After opening the wall I found clusters of Posts, that made me wonder, why so much wood? It is directly below an exterior wall, that does not support the roof. Also is two picture of my basement just below the Wall. As you can see there is a beam (not below my wall) perpendicuar to the wall on the right. I have a guy coming out next week to finish up. I only felt comfortable removeing the Dry wall. Any help would be great? I just want to get some opinions if I should keep removing or is this a Load bearing wall?

Jen

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Gary in WA

I would leave it alone and consult a Structural Engineer for guidance. With a double member paralam in the floor below and that many jack studs holding up the beam above, it is definetly a bearing wall. Possibly a point (concentrated) load above that requires the basement paralams. My other concern would be the lateral (side) shear resistance of the exterior wall that the short wall you want to remove is providing.

Be safe, Gary

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jen5219

That is what I was affraid of. The guy who came today, did not see the wall opened, so I guess he could not of known? Or should he have know just because of the basement.

So... a structural engeneer will just give me advice, then I would have to hire someone to do this. Can a header redistribute the load? I've seen that on many sites. And how much should that run me? Ball park estimate. Thanks for the reply.

Jen

Ron6519

Anyone who was coming back to remove a wall should have known what the situation was from his first visit. A simple walk around the house should have been enough for any competant contractor to determine a load bearing wall. This is not rocket science.
Ron

jen5219

I guess I had two non competent contractors then. Both said, (before the wall was opened) that they did not believe this was a load bearing wall. After opened, even I knew, but was crossing my fingers there was some other reason. On the bottom of the stack each stud has a letter. "J", "X", and "O". Does that mean anything?

Although I dont think it would look good, and don't think I would do it, could a Pole be left and the rest gone. Again I would still hire someone to do this, just getting some educated opinions. Thanks for any info you can give.

Tizzer

I'd do as Ron mentioned, get an engineer. Having a set of the home's building plans would help.
That "x", "j", "o" means nothing to you or what you're trying to do. They are marks for the crew that built the house.

Gary in WA

More...... The doorway opening studs are exposed showing 2 jack studs supporting another header and a king stud--- out of picture range, but the jacks are there..... The opening with header above shows 1 cripple stud supporting the opening bottom sill member (horizontal), next- 2 jack studs and a king stud---- the builder wouldn't have added the studs unless they were needed and required to pass inspection and support the load. "X" is for a standard stud, "J" is for jack studs (supporting), and "O" for opening where I call them "cripples--- above a door or above/below a window. The doubled parallams (engineered)lumber in the basement are only used to carry a large load in the same joist size when solid wood joists are unable to. http://bct.nrc.umass.edu/index.php/p...s-and-headers/ Towards the bottom.

Be safe, Gary

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jen5219

Thanks again for all your help. I'm closing my wonderful wall up, and trying to see the good in it? Instead, I tore my vinyl out and kept going to a sub floor. I just finished laying the hardebacker and have all tiles ready for cutting tomorrow. Hopefully, everything goes well on this project.

Jen

Ron6519

This is a bit of Devil's Advocate here but ... You do realize that you can't just put a backer board over a subfloor and tile? The installation will fail pretty soon.
Ron

jen5219

Thanks. I've read in flooring that you could, but will investigate somemore. Thanks. My heart is very sad if this is true.!!!! I posted something on the flooring sections. No replies yet, maybe no one wants to tell me the bad news?

Hadyn

Both Ron & GBR are right on. I just wanted to add that a bearing wall is just that. Cut an inspection hole in the roof next to it and see if the joist above it are overlapping. Thats a dead give away. Then have your builder compute your span/beam ratios, sketch some plans, have them o'kd by your county/city. If they say you need an engineer, Ok, if not, you've only spent a little more time & money, and you've done it legal & right. Hope this helps. I'm in the middle of the same type of project.

Wildie

You could just remove the cripple and jack studs and leave support as is, and have a walk through, rather than a passthrough.

loneframer

Cripples, yes. The jack studs pick up the load upon the header and should not be touched. Double jacks are typical on an opening of 6' or wider and sometimes less than 6'.

Wildie

How right you are! Why I said the jacks, i don't know! Put it down to a senior moment, I guess!

Thanks!

loneframer

I understand, just thought I'd clear that up promptly.