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Old 04-09-2011, 12:07 PM   #16
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vinyl Siding / Soffit Question


I'm sorry if I confused you more or butted in.I'm new to this and was just trying to help.If you use 2x you don't need f,but you still would need j channel or undersill to terminate siding panel.If you use narrow j which is fine you'll need caulking to help secure the siding.Undersill is different in that you snap lock it in.In your link Mike G uses wide vinyl j casing,I have that as well but it is pricey.

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Old 04-09-2011, 12:17 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Jasonlongor1 View Post
I'm sorry if I confused you more or butted in.I'm new to this and was just trying to help.If you use 2x you don't need f,but you still would need j channel or undersill to terminate siding panel.If you use narrow j which is fine you'll need caulking to help secure the siding.Undersill is different in that you snap lock it in.In your link Mike G uses wide vinyl j casing,I have that as well but it is pricey.
You didn't butt in man. I need all the help I can get lol.

Maybe that is what he meant for me to do with the J-channel. The stuff comes in 12' lengths you know, and I have fourteen of them on my quote paper. I bought half of them yesterday, which was seven. I don't think it will take fourteen j-channel pieces to go around my windows, door, and roll up door..Maybe the rest should be used for the place we are talking about, right up in that corner at the bottom of the nailing strip.

I see now what you guys are talking about with the nailing strip not really being needed, but maybe it will keep the j channel more straight (assuming that is what I will use there).

What exactly is the author of that pdf getting at when he says that "j channel is the hallmark of most bad vinyl jobs"..
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Old 04-09-2011, 12:30 PM   #18
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vinyl Siding / Soffit Question


The j buts tight to the soffit after the soffit is nailed to the 2x or in f channel.As you lock in you last siding piece dab caulking in the bottom where it locks in to the previous piece.Hhmm!!Wouldn't you rather big pieces of wide J trim,mitered perfect and standing proud and not cheap looking??Nothing beats cedar tho.
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Old 04-09-2011, 12:38 PM   #19
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vinyl Siding / Soffit Question


I do have caulk in my quote so apparently this might be what I would use it for.
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Old 04-09-2011, 12:57 PM   #20
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Do the trim pieces - like j-channel for around the windows and doors - need to be nailed tight?

It would seem like if you go through the trouble of making a nice miter joint, the last thing you would want is for it to be moving around and looking sloppy..
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Old 04-09-2011, 04:21 PM   #21
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Yes trim and only trim gets nailed tight.Starter as well just don't over do it or faces will flare out.
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Old 04-09-2011, 04:40 PM   #22
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Yes trim and only trim gets nailed tight.Starter as well just don't over do it or faces will flare out.
No, nothing gets nailed tight.

JS I thought you said you have the 40+ page manual, it’s all in there. Just encase you don’t here it is.

http://www.vinylsiding.org/publications/0804_VSI_2007Manual.pdf
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Old 04-09-2011, 05:28 PM   #23
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Sorry not trying to mislead and I'll admit I've never read that just telling you how I do it.But I do notice alot of questions you have are explained in it such as the utility trim( undersill) and also in the article in the link you posted.Good luck.
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:18 PM   #24
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vinyl Siding / Soffit Question


not only that but if you don't use a channel or L shaped piece of metal there you will be looking at the sheathing in the soffit panel grooves

your ''installer'' made a mistake
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:31 AM   #25
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How are you going to make the transition from the sidewall soffit to the soffit running up the gable?
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Old 04-14-2011, 06:30 PM   #26
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vinyl Siding / Soffit Question


A couple ideas for you:
The pic shows the L shaped metal Tom mentioned.
This can go up against your 2x framing on the eaves as well
as the gable ends under the soffit.
Then the J will butt to the bottom of your soffit to accept the last
piece of siding and help hold up the soffit.

We usually incorporate the J into our returns and direct any water
that may get into it into the corner J.
Depending on your helps abilities,the built in J will give a much
cleaner look and help eliminate a possible water infiltration point.

Since your returns will not line up with the corners,you can run a
J along the bottom of it,then return it towards the gable soffit J.
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Old 04-14-2011, 07:28 PM   #27
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That picture definitely clears some things up. What is the purpose of the "L metal?" I talked to the guy again at the distributor and he said exactly the same thing about how it gets mounted up under the nailing strip. I don't understand why in the world this piece goes there. Obviously there is no ledge for the soffit to sit on.
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Old 04-14-2011, 07:39 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by J S Machine View Post
That picture definitely clears some things up. What is the purpose of the "L metal?"
It will keep you from seeing the felt paper in the soffit groves
after the J is installed under it.

quote=J S Machine;629589] Obviously there is no ledge for the soffit to sit on.[/quote]

The top of the J will butt to the bottom of the soffit, positioned to accept
the top of the last piece of siding.I guess you could call this your ledge.

Imagine that your J is the trim piece in this pic.
It basically serves the same purpose.
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Old 04-14-2011, 07:53 PM   #29
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I see now. I have seen the light..lol.

So really and truly I need a brake to even get started. Any ideas on where I could rent one of these things?
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:18 PM   #30
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Depending on how confident you are in using a brake,the rental cost,the aggravation of transporting it,the
possibility of wasting material,and a maybe a less than desirable result,I might be inclined to just hire out
this part of the job.
Didn't you say somewhere that you had help that use to install?

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