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Vinyl Siding Install: Remove Current Lap Boards?

3K views 22 replies 9 participants last post by  kwikfishron 
#1 ·
I have got two quotes to put vinyl siding on my house because the current lap boards are swelling and need to be replaced.

We have opted to go with Vinyl install, but the contractors that have given quotes are a little different.

One wants to leave the existing lap boards and install vinyl on top of them (which will prevent them from installing insulation boards) the other wants to remove the lap boards.

Which is the right approach? The non-removal company says that removing will cause a "can of worms" because they don't know what is behind the lap boards.

The removal company says they want to remove it because it is almost rotted.

The quotes are almost the same price, even though the non-removal company says if they remove it will cause the price to double.

I have attached some pictures of the house, but I really just don't know if the current lap boards should be removed or not.
 

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#3 ·
the non removal company is being lazy. its not creating a can of worms by removing the old siding . by going over the old siding your creating a can of worms for a later date..

by removing the old siding you can address any issues with rot right now. install new flashings over all the windows and doors. install new house wrap and even install 1`rigid foam to create a thermal break on the outside of the house which will give greater insulation.. the non removal company sounds like hte typical vinyl installer who doesnt know how to do anything but install vinyl and is too lazy to fix anything.. more and more im seeing these type of installers creating more problems by not addressing any old ones when they have the chance
 
#2 ·
Someone cheaped out when building this house and did not take the time to build any over hangs. That's the main reason why your siding fail most likly.
I'd remove all of it and inspect for damage under it.
If it's not remove the siding going to stick out past the fashias and complicate the whole job.
It's would also make trimming out around the windows and far harder.
They would all have to be built out.
 
#16 · (Edited)
We're installing new vinyl on my house right now. Good vinyl will fade but not much. In fact the good stuff is warrantied something like 50 years against anything over a certain, 'graceful' amount of fading. Alco I think warranties 3 color degrees on their wheel. Certainteed warranties anything above 'graceful', which while that sounds a bit fudgy, from what I've read is actually pretty decent. Certainteed's 50 year warranty is also transferable to future owners. My particular installer also offers a 20-year labor warranty on the install.

I'll gladly take some graceful fading over having to paint the damn thing every 10 years or whatever. Vinyl siding needs to be washed about once a year or two and that's it for maintenance. Get a power washer. A good vinyl installer will wrap any wood trim (brick moulding etc) in trim coil and that will also be essentially maintenance-free, including your fascia, soffits, etc.

We're having Certainteed Monogram 46 installed, but to be honest the top products from Alco and Mastic are similar. Aluminum Oxide in the formulation to prevent fading and protect against UV exposure.

The stuff with the insulation molded into it only has a slightly higher R-value than vinyl with normal sheet insulation under it. Its primary benefit is its improved impact resistance. But a good vinyl is still pretty damn durable.

A big part of a vinyl install is an installer who knows how to use the trim coil properly. It's an art to fold and mold it to all of the surfaces properly.
 
#6 ·
honestly we reside just about every house we do an addition on.. its too hard to match up with old siding so the client opts to go all new.. by doing so we strip off all the old siding , install new flashings. 1" foam most times or just house wrap.. if we were to simply go over the old we cant put a warrenty on hte performance of the siding because without seeing the state of the sheathing under neath how are we to know what is ok or what isnt. plain and simple..

with some of the higher end siding types the manufacturer clearly states it must be installed on a flat surface over top of xps or housewrap.. going over old siding will void the warrenty
 
#12 ·
Your biggest concern it rotted sheathing or even worse the framing behind that. If all of the weather barrier and flashing behind the siding was installed correctly you should be fine, if not you could have a real mess on your hands.

Have you ever noticed any leaks inside of the house before?

One easy test you (or a carpenter) could do is get a handful of siding nails and drive a nail through the siding in certain areas around the house to detect if the sheathing is solid or not.

Places to check would be just below the windows especially at the lower corner of the windows also just above the windows. I'd also check near the bottom of the Outside and inside corners of the house.

It would also be pretty easy for an experienced siding guy to “carefully” remove a few pieces siding in suspect areas and take a look. Around a window on the side of the house that gets the most weather would be a good place to start.
 
#11 · (Edited)
The sheathing will be deteriorating. They will just replace with new sheathing. Generally OSB. Price installed i don't know you will have to ask. I will guess $35. :yes: Now plywood would probably be in the 50 dollar range. I would recomended going with tyvek wrap and some 1 inch blue board foam insulation I think its xps. for some added r value.

Ps nice looking home. .
 
#14 ·
if theres no signs of leaking inside via peeling paint on the walls around windows and doors you should be good. there is still a chance you might have some small areas of bad sheathing but nothing major.. you might encounter poorly installed flashings where roof lines intersect walls along with over winodws and doors.. with everything open now is hte time to install new flashings and where the roof lines tie in to install `kick out flashings.. very few guys do this this but their proven to work
 
#15 ·
Thanks to all for the recommendations! We will be removing the siding!

The next big question is should the siding be replaced with Vinyl or Hardi Board?

Vinyl looks cleaner, mo, but when it fades I will have to replace it all. The hardi board will fade as well, but I can repaint it.

Should I get insulated Vinyl, regular vinyl, or Hardie Board? The Hardi Board is going to run me about 6-7k more.

I am doing roof, some windows and siding so 6-7k will break me. lol

There are several other houses in the neighbor hood that have vinyl so I won't be the only one.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated on pros and cons and recommendations.

Thanks!
 
#17 ·
Thanks for the recommendation. I am kind of leaning towards vinyl, I just need to make sure the quality is good. I think my contractor users VSI.

I was only thinking of the insulated siding because it may help with the heating and cooling of the vinyl itself which could help with fading.

Keep the recommendations coming! Thanks ALL!

:thumbup:
 
#18 ·
If you haven't already go take a close up look at a few Hardie and Vinyl jobs. Look at the details around the windows, corners, seams, etc. The view from the curb isn't the best indicator. This doesn't get mentioned enough but flies and other bugs love to breed behind Vinyl Siding.
 
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