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-   -   Vinyl siding and the after-thought deck (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/vinyl-siding-after-thought-deck-161446/)

ikessky 10-28-2012 05:07 PM

Vinyl siding and the after-thought deck
 
Here's my latest "what to do?". The deck that is on the house appears to be an after-thought. It is not attached to a ledger board on the house. It is basically like a ledger was set a few inches away and then a block was slid behind it and then the shim and the "ledger" were bolted to the house on top of the pressboard siding. Now I'm putting vinyl on and wonder what to do around all of this mess? I thought about unbolting it all, making a board that goes the length of the deck and then using lag screws to attach it to the house. I do that though, how do I install any flashing without removing deck boards? I guess my other option is to try to J trim around all the shims. If it matters at all, the overhang off my roof above this area is 32" with the gutter.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...y/100_2710.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...y/100_2711.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...y/100_2712.jpg

woodworkbykirk 10-28-2012 07:07 PM

the good thing is things are now completley opened up so you can slip a flashing over the ledger.. but you cant get a peel and stick membrane behind it. just use j channel hard down on the deck for the starter course to set into as opposed to starter strip

ikessky 10-28-2012 09:16 PM

Hadn't even thought of that! Quick and easy!

kwikfishron 10-29-2012 09:07 AM

You have an ugly situation there, that hardboard really should go.

Short of that…at the minimum you need to install flashing that runs behind the felt and up the wall at least a couple of inches then over the hardboard and down the face of it at least ½”. The top of this flashing should be behind the lower flange of the slider.

Do not just drop a piece of J on the deck and call it good.

joecaption 10-29-2012 09:20 AM

If it was mine I would use a layer of wide window tape first that fit to try and cover the old white trim and lays over the top of those end grain exposted spacers, a layer of Storm and Ice Shield, Z moulding then the J moulding.
HD sells some really deep vinyl Z moulding that's made to cover the brick moulding, that would kick out the dripping water away from the white trim that's likly to end up rotting.

woodworkbykirk 10-29-2012 10:28 AM

id go more than a couple inches up the wall off the deck with the flashing.. snow can build up then melt and still get behind.. go atleast 4" up the wall

ikessky 10-29-2012 11:09 AM

Shouldn't be a problem to get a piece of ice and water guard behind the felt and draped over the hardboard. I was also talking to a family member who is a contractor and he said that what most people do is just put an L flashing that goes up the wall an inch or so and the other leg is down on the deck. Then the J goes on top of that. Essentially, it would make any water drip off onto exposed deck material that was designed to take the weather anyway. He said that any additional ice/water guard, window tape, and layering that I do will definitely help out, but is over and above what some contractors even do.

woodworkbykirk 10-29-2012 03:28 PM

1" up the wall isnt enough. most codes call for 4" vertical laps of house wrap including flashings have to be a minumum of 3" , youll never get that with 1"

we dont use siding tape for this.. we install our flashing then a strip of 4" vycor over the top of it which seals the nail holes.. any additional nail holes get seat as the vycor is a bitumanous product,, meaning it self seals

ikessky 10-30-2012 08:07 AM

My family member has a metal break so he will make a flashing that is larger than your typical drip cap or L flashing that you buy at Menards. Also, since this is on the east side of the house and the overhang is large, it really doesn't see much rain or snow. I'm a super precautionary person, so I tend to look for how to do something right rather than take a shortcut.

woodworkbykirk 10-30-2012 01:28 PM

the premade flashing from big box stores are typically junk anyways.. their made of very very light gauge metal that kinks and dents much easier than coil stock purchased through siding suppliers


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