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Old 02-06-2013, 10:52 AM   #16
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Vapor Barrier In Waterproofed Basement


Make sure you tape your seams and use a criss cross grid pattern of PL300 on the back of the foam board. This way you can minimize air flow between the foam and concrete wall.

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Old 02-06-2013, 11:08 AM   #17
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Vapor drive is always from warm to cold. Where the dew point will occur depends on differential temperature and humidity. In ALabama, I would guess that you will be running Air conditioning most of the year, so your vapor barrier will be your exterior waterproofing. Placing another vapor retarder or barrier in the system could cause problems. I would simply use Kraft paper faced fiberglass between the studs and not staple it too tight, you will be fine.

Motels in the south had major problems when they installed vinyl wallpaper on the interior of masonry walls. They created a vapor barrier on the interior with a wheat paste food source for mold. Take a Lesson.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:12 AM   #18
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Vapor Barrier In Waterproofed Basement


your soil's ambient temp about 2' down should avg 62 - 65* f year 'round
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:18 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by jagans View Post
Vapor drive is always from warm to cold. Where the dew point will occur depends on differential temperature and humidity. In ALabama, I would guess that you will be running Air conditioning most of the year, so your vapor barrier will be your exterior waterproofing. Placing another vapor retarder or barrier in the system could cause problems. I would simply use Kraft paper faced fiberglass between the studs and not staple it too tight, you will be fine.

Motels in the south had major problems when they installed vinyl wallpaper on the interior of masonry walls. They created a vapor barrier on the interior with a wheat paste food source for mold. Take a Lesson.
I'm afraid I'm overthinking this quite a bit! My inspector told me basically the same thing. Just put up the insulation and don't worry about it!

Should I score the kraft paper (over thinking again )

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your soil's ambient temp about 2' down should avg 62 - 65* f year 'round
I assume this is intended to point out that I'm not likely to have a condensation problem, correct? On top of that, there is only a small section that is on an external wall. One wall is under my garage, and about half of the other wall is under my front porch. So I would imagine those areas would be slightly warmer than the average ground temp.

I really do appreciate all the help and feedback! I just want to make sure I do it right the first time!
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:49 AM   #20
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Vapor Barrier In Waterproofed Basement


"I would simply use Kraft paper faced fiberglass between the studs and not staple it too tight, you will be fine."

"Should I score the kraft paper (over thinking again )"---------------- either one does absolutely nothing as the product is area weighed or if any of it is left on the wall, that much left is an effective vapor retarder. Remove it all for your location, as per my second link in post 12.

And; https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...9yRrrdP1VBztDg

For other members on here also having trouble understanding vapor retarders/barriers: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...cience-podcast

Gary
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:37 PM   #21
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Gary, you are always extremely helpful, and it's much appreciated! I've read the page you've linked to several times over the past few months (Google finds it regularly ), but I have not been able to convince myself that it was the whole story. Reading the article linked to on that page regarding basements seemed a little contradictory in that it recommends XPS on the interior basement walls. My situation seems different than most as I have a "water"proofing system (compared to "damp"proofing) on the outside that includes a small amount of insulation in the form of an additional drainage board. The dimpled 1/4" poly membrane should act as a vapor barrier on the outside, so adding another vapor barrier in the form of XPS on the interior goes against the "double vapor barriers are bad" mantra

At any rate, I finally decided I just needed to make a decision and I put up unfaced batts around the exterior walls. There is a 1/4" to 1" gap between the concrete and the framing, but I'm sure there are places where the insulation will touch the wall (it was impossible to get the fiberglass mesh pulled tight enough to keep the fiberglass inside the bays). I'll use my faced batts in the interior walls where it doesn't matter.

Again, I truly appreciate all the help, and hopefully this thread will be useful for the next poor sole in my situation

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