DIY4EVER

Hi All,

Has anyone ever used that fake stone stuff that you see all over new houses?

I wanted to try and use a fake stone product in my house to create pilars in an entryway that look like they are made with stone. Can you use products like this on interior walls? what about around a fireplace to make it look like a stone fireplace?

Thanks in advance for any help/ideas!

kylemfk

Go right ahead no problem at all. You can even seal indoors if you like since it won't be exposed to the weather

DIY4EVER

Is there a good way to do this? any advice as to how to approach the installation?

Thanks!

kylemfk

feel free to send me the details of the job, what stone you are using and I will send you some info

DIY4EVER

I was looking at the Owens Corning cultured stone products. Maybe like a ledgestone or fieldstone....

kylemfk

prep your surface with wire lath and scratch coat, allow this to dry.

now just batter the back of the stones and pop them up on the dried scratch coat.


use a type n mortar, you dont want your mortar to be stronger than your stones

I suggest you lay out your pattern first, and you can work from the top down if it helps. (that one makes old masons' skin crawl)

here is a link to cross sections if it helps

http://www.culturedstone.com/technical/details.asp

good luck and take your time laying out your pattern, biggest mistake a first timer can make is just winging them up on the surface.

DIY4EVER

thanks a lot for the info. i will be sure to take my time

Jeekinz

Here's my experience: First off, I looked at Owens and Eldorado and picked up samples from both manufacturers. The Owens sample was indoors and looked fake. The finish was definately wearing off. I went to a dealer to look at Eldorado stone, we walked outside and all the samples were installed on the side of the building. He said they have all been there for over 7 years.

So I went with the Eldorado because of looks, durability and the bonus...it cost HALF what Owens costs.

My fireplace was all painted sheetrock. I asked a few people about installation, because I really didn't want to make a mess of the recently finished livingroom with the lath, mortar and all that stuff.

I decided to rip off all the sheetrock, taking care as not to damage the surrounding walls. I then covered the studs with 1/2 ply and used construction adhesive to mount the stone veneer. I just put golf ball sized dollops on the back of the stone and pushed it into place. All the edges are 22 deg. miters. Working from the floor up, the whole job was complete over the course of a weekend and 2 hours.

TIP: Ater it was complete, I got a tip on installing around a fireplace. (duh) Build a wooden frame out of 2x3 the same size as the fireplace and use bracing on either side to keep it in place. This way you just have to butt the stone up to the frame and not have to worry about alignment or measuring.

The 2 hours: When all the stone was in place, There were slight gaps between the stone, and you could see the plywood. I went to Lowe's and picked up a tube of dark gray sanded grout to fill the gaps.

Where the miters are, you could see a few spots where I made cuts. I e-mailed Eldorado and the lady sent me a "Touch-up kit" FOR FREE!!! It arrived in 2 days. It consisted of 2 different colored powders that you mix with water and glue to "dye" those areas. I found using a cheapo paint brush worked well. You want to use a super small amount, and just dab the areas.

All materials....stone veneer, hearth stones, plywood, adhesive and grout cost under $1000.

Theres a narrow wall that separates the main entry from the staicase that I plan on covering as well. To tie it all together.

kylemfk

cultured stone color wearing off I don't know about that. That company has high standards. El Dorado is pretty good as well. I still say you should cover the entire back of the stone in batter and attach to a scratch coat. My risk it to save a few bucks, wire lath and mortar will cost you a few more bucks, well worth it IMO.

Tscarborough

Lath and scratch coat is cheaper, but thinsetting the stones to hardi backer is much faster and easier for a DYI'er to do.

Cultured Stone and Eldorado are made in EXACTLY the same fashion, and any difference between them is in style and color.

Do the corners and edges first, then fill in. Any cuts should be scattered through the field where they will disappear to the eye.

For most stones, top down is best, but for some of the thicker ones (Drystacks in particular), bottom up is faster.

DO NOT attempt to wire brush the stone. If you get mortar droppings on it, leave it alone for an hour or two, then brush it off with a stiff bristle brush.

DIY4EVER

Jeekinz - nice pics! looks very nice. very similar to the result I am looking for.

Tscarborough - I have of Hardi Backer before in some other threads, but what exactly is it and how is it used? Do you put it over drywall or use it in place of drywall? I've seen people use plywood to build simple boxes and attach them to the wall surface, cover them in a wire mesh (looked like chicken wire) then apply mortar over that and then set the stone on top of that scratch coat with mortar. I am just trying to figure out the best/easiest way for me to do it, keeping in mind I have noexperience with stone, but I have set a tile backsplash in my kitchen. The process seems like it would be similar.

Thanks again for all the great info!

Tscarborough

You can screw 1/4" hardi right over sheetrock, or remove the sheetrock and use 1/2" hardi-backer. However, the mechanical grip is much less than a scratchcoat, so I only use a modified thinset, not Type S or N mortar to attach the stones.

Jeekinz

Sorry the pics are gone....I can put them back if someone requests them. Anyway, I saw another post regarding a sone veneer installation and wanted to give an update to my method.

Since I installed the stone (Nov 2006), I have burned 3 cords of wood and have not had one problem with the veneer. The stones near the carpet are in tact as well after being smacked with the vacuum a few times.

timber

I"d really like to see those pics again please, I'm the one asking basically the same questions and it sounds like your getting off a lot easier and less expensive than what's being suggested to me. I must be overthinking mine!

Tscarborough

Timber, the difference here is the varying planes of your existing wall. That is, the brick extends further than your paneling or sheetrock; the yellow wall. You have to bring this all into the same plane before you start. It could be done with Hardi or lath, but in your situation, it is easier to fur, lath, and scratchcoat it.