Used T&G OSB as sheathing on a 22' wall, problems ?
I just nail a 22 foot long wall (with a 6' French door opening), 8 foot high with Tongue and Groove OSB 3/4" (horizontally). :jester:
After doing this i gave a friend a buzz (because it just didnt feel right) who has framed a few houses and additions and he said it was a no, no - you do not use T&G this way.
Will this cause that big of a problem with expansion ?
The perimitor was nailed with about 4" spacing nail to nail and the rest about 10". Next summer i plan on stuccoing this wall as well. The wall is new, just framed with 2x8's (not 2x6s). The inspector is pretty good here (he really works with the home owners) and knows this is the first project of this size (a new addition on my house) i've ever done so he might let it slide, but i would like to know what the side effect of doing this will be and how sever.
Thanks for any kind of helping hand.
The sheets are laid so tongue is up (only one seam horizontally).
If expansion and compression will cause problems, what if i run a carpenters knife down the seam or something to that effect... As you can see, i really do not want to take these down if i do not have to.
Wall sheathing is commonly butted pretty tight with no issues. If you're concerned, run a saw and kerf the joints. I don't know of a code that would prohibit it.
Why on earth would you use 3/4" sheathing on a wall? Part of an engineered design? Did you use 8's or 10's when nailing it? 8's are good for 1/2" but might not be long enough for 3/4". I'd have to check on that.
Looking at the long term of things, would you continue to sheath one more 8' wall (two sheets horizontally) and a small 2'8" "jogged" wall in the same manner ? The 2'8" wall will be a single sheet vertically (so that should not be problematic).
The main floor of the addition will be done with 1/2 non-T&G.
Ive never heard the term kerf before, after looking it up - are you suggesting to run a saw, at a very shallow depth and maybe just cut off one side of the groove (off the top sheet, but leaving the tongue of the bottom sheet) ?
That wall is one of the basement walls. Once the addition is done the basement will be a work shop and a corner will be boxed off as a music/instrument room so sound is something i will be concerned with. OSB will work better for a sound barrier (then plywood), sound waves become "confused" when they hit different densities and dissipate rather then penetrate through solid materials, so i figured the more the better.
Let me add, im around 6' 3", 175lbs and as a trade im a machinist that works with fairly small parts. If a neighbor was cam-cording this, it will be a funny clip :) Them sheets are heavy.
The nails where 2 1/2" .131 for a framing gun.
I think you'll be disappointed in how your sound transmission theory works out. :no: Either way, it is a super-strong wall though!
Personally, I wouldn't be concerned at all about the tongue and groove, or butting the OSB tight. I see no reason to create a gap, I was simply providing a way to do it if you feel it is necessary. Wall sheets are typically butted nice and tight.
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