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Old 01-20-2011, 01:36 PM   #1
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As you can see in the picture below, I have a 30" portion of double top plate that is cantilevered over what will soon be the rough opening for a 28" bathroom door.

Since I had to remove the stud at the end of this partition, should I nail a little 2x4 block to the "king" stud above the door?

On a different note, is a built-up 2x4 header worth my time, or should I just stick with a single 2x4 header on the flat? The header will not be supported by a trimmer on either side. Should I put a small angle bracket between the header and the stud, or will nails be sufficient for a nonstructural header?
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Last edited by benjamincall; 01-20-2011 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 01-20-2011, 02:41 PM   #2
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Need a better picture that shows the whole doorway, not just a macro shot that only shows one corner.

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Old 01-20-2011, 03:05 PM   #3
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The corner is really the only part that's of interest. I'll try to post another picture soon. The doorway is comprised of a single stud on each side with the top plate bearing on one stud. The other stud is recessed into the wall that runs perpendicular to the doorway. The top plate over the doorway is about 3/8" short of the perpendicular wall.

My main question is whether or not an 8" piece of 2x4 should be placed in the corner to support the cantilevered top plate over the doorway.

I'll follow up with another picture/illustration shortly.

Last edited by benjamincall; 01-20-2011 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 01-20-2011, 06:50 PM   #4
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*Added another picture to the original post*
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Old 01-21-2011, 12:48 PM   #5
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Yes, add a cripple stud, 8", as you said, vertically. Single 2x4 horizontal will work for a non-bearing load header. "L" brackets or not, up to you. Four toe-nails have a lot of shear; http://books.google.com/books?id=_CP...age&q=&f=false

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Old 01-21-2011, 01:02 PM   #6
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Thanks, Gary. I think I'll stick with the toenail.

I always seem to leave my nails a little more proud than I'd like when I toenail. Do you use a nail set?

On a different note, you have me paranoid about my dryer vent.
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Old 01-21-2011, 01:46 PM   #7
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I use a nail gun. Check the ducting today!

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Old 07-26-2011, 10:34 AM   #8
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So, I finished framing the doorway, and I'm ready to install the door. Since the door frame on the right side (as pictured) is flush with the perpendicular wall, I won't have any room for the door casing. How should I trim the right side of the jamb ? Should I just caulk between the drywall and the jamb and put casing on three sides? Would that installation look weird?
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Old 07-26-2011, 11:25 AM   #9
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This is just a suggestion of course but if it were me I would ditch the 28" door for a 24" door. I know it is a bit small but is done regularly.

I just think that a door that close to a wall is truly odd looking.

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Old 07-26-2011, 12:08 PM   #10
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You can rip the trim on the right side but it is still going to look out of place, if it were mine I would also go with a 2/0 door.
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Old 07-26-2011, 02:36 PM   #11
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Maybe a 3/4" piece on the inside would not be so bad, since the trim will be inside a bathroom on the hinge side of an inswing door. I'll be able to trim the outside completely after I remove a wall. The existing door in the bathroom is 24" and it is uncomfortably small (both my shoulders touch as I pass through the door).

Would you do a steep miter on the trim or would you butt the small side piece into the head piece?
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Old 07-26-2011, 04:38 PM   #12
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Just cut a 45 on the ripped side piece, and cut the header piece on a 45, like normal then put the two inside edges of the header and side piece together and make a mark at the over hang of the header piece and cut it off square at the mark.
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:54 PM   #13
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OK, so I went to hang the door, and realized that the wall perpendicular to the door frame is out of plumb. Between the bottom and the top of the door frame I have a difference of almost 1". I guess I didn't notice the difference before because I didn't have a door on that wall. I really don't want a tapered piece of trim. Do you think I should just get a good drywall guy to clean up that mess with shims, or should I try to slam that bearing wall back into plumb?
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Old 07-30-2011, 09:21 PM   #14
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You really don't want to hit the wall hard enough to move it back 1 inch, you will knock the sheet rock loose or bust it.
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Old 07-30-2011, 09:31 PM   #15
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Jim,

You would reccomend just installing the door plumb and having a drywall guy shim out the drywall so I don't have an uneven reveal/trim between the door and the walll?

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