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Old 06-29-2010, 09:46 PM   #46
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Tyvek overlap with replacing siding one wall at a time


I'd talk to a hardie rep to make sure they are ok with siesmic. Secondly can your foundation withstand the heavy siding (as its not light). My foundation could not support such a thing.. Might be good to look into

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Old 06-30-2010, 06:36 AM   #47
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Tyvek overlap with replacing siding one wall at a time


what is your ''foundation'' made out of?
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:28 AM   #48
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Tyvek overlap with replacing siding one wall at a time


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I'd talk to a hardie rep to make sure they are ok with siesmic. Secondly can your foundation withstand the heavy siding (as its not light). My foundation could not support such a thing.. Might be good to look into
No seismic concerns here in Central Texas. The house is on a concrete slab with poured footings... I could probably side the house with steel plate and the foundation would be fine (and then the walls would collapse, but that's beside the point ).

According to the mfr, Hardiplank weighs 2.3lbs/sq.ft., which they said is comparable to 5/8" sheetrock. Hopefully not many houses are built to within that small of a margin of safety.
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:03 AM   #49
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Tyvek overlap with replacing siding one wall at a time


You tell him Numb.

How are you planning on nailing the siding?

What exposure of siding?

Have you bought the siding yet?
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:42 AM   #50
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Tyvek overlap with replacing siding one wall at a time


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You tell him Numb.

How are you planning on nailing this?

What exposure of siding?

Have you bought the siding yet?
Blind nailing, per the Hardi recommendations. I'm planning on using the 8.25" boards with a 7" exposure. I have not bought the siding yet.

I'm still trying to work out the plan for the window installation. I have two schools of thought on this:

1) Install windows and siding on one wall at a time. 30# felt goes over the T1-11 and wraps inside the window openings. Windows are install over the T1-11, and flashed with peel & seal. Trim and siding go on last. Basically this method:



2) Install all the windows first. Window nailing flanges would be installed over the T1-11 and flashed with peel & seal. 30# felt, trim, and siding would go on later. If I go this route, I'm not sure of the details on how to properly seal everything up. Would the felt get flashed to the window with another layer of peel & seal? Is this even a viable option? Clearly, some people do it, as shown here:

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Old 06-30-2010, 11:49 AM   #51
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Tyvek overlap with replacing siding one wall at a time


The window detail looks great.

I prefer the first plan only because when I’m set up one side of a house with tools, ladders, etc. I want to get everything done in that area I can before moving to the next area. 1 lap around a house is better than 3-4.

But on the other hand the safest place for your new windows is in their new holes. If you don’t have a guaranteed safe place to store you’re windows then get them in ASAP.


The reason I asked about the exposure (and I’d like to hear some other input on this) is I’m not a fan of 7” exposure Hardi and this is why. You can go to the middle of any full panel and with little effort get your fingers up under the panel and rip it off the wall if you choose. IMO the laps just aren’t tight enough. Go look at a big wall of 7" exposure Hardi, stand up against the wall and look up. You’ll see what I’m talking about.


I’m always trying to sell my customers on 5 or 6 inch exposure. The 6” is tighter than the 7 but only the 5” is “tight” the way I like it.

Just something to think about.
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:29 PM   #52
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Tyvek overlap with replacing siding one wall at a time


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I assumed there was sheathing under the T1-11, but I don't know for sure. If there is not, do I use the straps just while the house is exposed, or do I leave them on and install the felt and hardiplank over them?

As, is it practical to install sheathing if there is none currently, or would that lead to clearance problems with doors and windows?
Try out zip system sheathing, it is waterproof and durable which will be good for your time issue
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Old 06-30-2010, 07:53 PM   #53
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Tyvek overlap with replacing siding one wall at a time


actually that zip wall is pretty nice stuff
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:52 PM   #54
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Tyvek overlap with replacing siding one wall at a time


Window flashings are easy to do. Just make sure that the blueskin or equal product is on the sheathing and rough opening. Run the felt over the flashing and seal with tuct or a membrane. I'd take the sill detail and and do the same at the head but make the membranes wider/longer @ the corner to avoid the critical corners being missed. Place a horizontal membrane over the flashing @ the head & run felt over this. Place the side membranes in. There are plenty of manf. videos to show you this. You can also use a flex wrap (tyvek) product to avoid the corner pitfalls as well. Products like Blueskin are a premium product and should be adhered to wood. Felt under Blueskin is just asking for trouble as it will lift in the wind or worse let water into your window.

I've detailed a lot of Hardie installations. We tend to make the trim proud of the siding. Generally we do a double frieze and a wide skirt board which completes the look. It looks really nice.

The perforated Hardie soffit however doesn't give a lot of ventilation so we just used panels and used soffit vent from air vent inc (SV202).

For canopy's (covered porch) we tend to take the panels lay them in and then take the trim and overlay them ontop to create a board and batten feel.

One thing you have to understand about this product is that it should always butt into trim. These joints (trim/siding) should also be caulked (See mfgr. req.)

Any horizontal trim member that is exposed to the elements on the top side should be flashed or chamfered(to shed water).

It is always wise if not code to have an air space behind the siding (just use exterior grade vertical strapping).


Just a thought

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Old 07-01-2010, 10:10 AM   #55
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Tyvek overlap with replacing siding one wall at a time


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Try out zip system sheathing, it is waterproof and durable which will be good for your time issue
That stuff does look pretty good, but for me, it would only make sense if I was planning on tearing off the T1-11, which doesn't seem necessary given what people have said.

It's also pricey. I checked with a local supplier, and the zip panels and tape work out to around 2x the cost of OSB and 30# felt.

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